文：向在荣 图：本刊资料库

“Vain trifles as they seem, clothes have, they say, more important offices than merely to keep us warm. They change our view of the world and the world’s view of us. [...] Thus, there is much to support the view that it is clothes that wear us and not we them; we may make them take the mould of arm or breast, but they mould our hearts, our brains, our tongues to their liking.”

－ 弗吉尼亚Ÿ沃尔夫《奥兰多》

（引言）衬衣领带是属于男人的，裙子挂在那里没有人穿也似乎一目了然是属于女性的衣装。我们通过服饰似乎能准确无误地辨别着装者的“性别”，然后何为性别？何为“男人”“女人”？什么又是“男装”、“女装”或者“中性趋势”？设计师们的时装实验，对服装性别定义的不断更新似乎早已超越这些僵硬空洞的二元概念。性别研究在上世纪六十年代女权主义第二次浪潮中兴起，那些极具革命性的性别理论也许能帮助我们思考当下的服装设计，跳出“男”、“女”、“中性”话语的桎梏，启发我们去寻找一种全新的词汇。

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