http://s8/mw690/001MgUiLgy6Ry8phwWja7&690fashion as gay-friendly as it seems? &nb" TITLE="Is fashion as gay-friendly as it seems? &nb" />
Britney and Madonna" @Jarlos420 on Instagram:the first gay
couple to be given a shared modelling contract
This week, DKNY campaign stars John Tuite and
Carlos Santolalla became the first openly gay
couple to be signed to a major agency as a duo. Nicknamed Jarlos by
their 22,000 devoted Instagram followers, the boys
announced their history-making contract with New York’s Fusion on
the social networking site. But considering fashion’s status as one
of the most gay-friendly industries on the planet, why is this such
a big deal? While the list of openly gay designers is seemingly
endless (Yves Saint Laurent, Gianni Versace, Marc Jacobs, Jean Paul
Gaultier and Valentino, to name a few) perhaps
surprisingly, models are encouraged to stay well and truly in the
closet.
“My very first experience with modelling was homophobic,” Tuite
recalls. “The guy that scouted me online immediately told me his
agency wouldn't sign me because they ‘don't work with gay men.’
Years later, the owner of that agency scouted me at an art show and
I took the opportunity to tell her that I was very offended by what
her booker had told me. But this woman, who is in fact a lesbian,
backed it up and said that it was her own business strategy. In any
other industry that would be a lawsuit, but because it’s ‘fashion,’
they get to call it ‘taste’ instead of discrimination.” Sadly, this
seems to be the norm – “In NYC it's pretty common practice for your
agent to tell you before signing to not be 'gay' and to 'act like a
man' as if being gay demeans your manhood,” Santolalla adds.
“There's also a very strong veil of homophobia hidden under
‘preference’... They say they want 'machismo' as if gay men aren't
able to provide that. It's actually really reductive and sad.”
But why the discrimination, especially considering fashion’s
penchant for homoerotic imagery? “It’s more
convenient to hire straight guys to sell the image, and people are
into that. The first rule of homoeroticism is that it's always
hotter when the guys are straight,” argues Tuite.
“It's a strange thing to think about, because obviously there have
been plenty of same-sex model couples before us, but for social and
professional reasons they couldn't necessarily advertise
that.” It seems that the same arguments of fear
over getting type-cast that stop actors and actresses from coming
out also apply to fashion – it’s a risky career move to do anything
that could make yourself more niche, and thus less likely to book
jobs.
http://s5/mw690/001MgUiLgy6Ry8HRF4Md4&690fashion as gay-friendly as it seems? &nb" TITLE="Is fashion as gay-friendly as it seems? &nb" />
John Tuite & Carlos Santolalla
“The guy that scouted me online immediately told me
his agency wouldn't sign me because they ‘don't work with gay
men’. In any other industry that would be a
lawsuit.” – Gay model John Tuite
“The real issue here, of course, is economics,” wrote Geoffrey
Macnab for The
Independent on the topic of gay
Hollywood, following Jodie
Foster’s coming out speech at the
Golden Globes in 2013. “Gay and lesbian directors,
producers, studio heads and supporting actors can be open about
their sexuality as long as it doesn't get in the way of the work.”
The subtext: modern cinema is built on clear cut tropes around sex
and gender: if you’re an actor known for playing the romantic hero,
or a bombshell actress seen as fodder for the male gaze, coming out
could get in the way of that. The target audience
of The
Expendables franchise might shift
slightly if its hyper-masculine, oiled up bro
team (Stallone, Schwarzenegger, Statham etc)
decided to come out of the closet.
The same is true in fashion, but for models, work is even more
closely tied to their off camera lives and
personalities than acting: more and more, their social media
presences – a vital negotiating factor when it comes to contracts –
are expected to be constantly updated, a 24/7 curation of their
personal brand. As Premier Model Management founder Carole White
explained in a recent Dazed interview, social media “is changing
how advertising is done; it’s changing how we evaluate how much a
job is worth...Followers have become a currency.” The
allure of personality is bigger than ever in the
age of Instagram: you only need to look
at someone like bleach blonde overnight superstar
Lucky Blue Smith (and his 900k followers) to see
how valuable a savvy social presence can be. There’s a pressure for
gay models to keep their sexuality a secret, in case coming out
could lose them work.
Only a few months in, and 2015 has already proved to be a
groundbreaking year in terms of casting, with models like Hari Nef,
Lineisy Montero and Bhumika
Arora kickstarting discussions
around gender identity and diversity (Nef has been a strong voice
for trans representation in fashion, while Montero
has been credited with bringing natural afro hair back to the
catwalks and Arora has made waves
as one of fashion’s only Indian models). The idea of ‘what makes a
model’ is changing, and Jarlos aren’t the only
LGBTQ models to being proud of their sexuality, no matter the
potential consequences. Last year Cara
Delevingne publicly offered support to National
Coming Out Day, repping queer photo project Self
Evident Truths with a statement
t-shirt, saying “Don’t be scared to be who you
are.” In March, Dazed cover girl Natalie
Westling appeared in V
Magazine in a lip lock
with real-life girlfriend Carly Moore, no
explanation needed.
When the reaction of both fashion fans and the general public to
models’ statements of LGBTQ pride is overwhelmingly
positive (Jarlos’s contract has generated an
outpouring of support) there’s little reason for the industry to
remain stuck in its homophobic ways. Jarlos are
already seeing the positive effects of their actions. “The other
day, this 19-year-old kid who's still in the closet told us that we
were his first gay role models,”
says Santolalla. “He found our
Instagram by searching for ‘gay models’. That was pretty cool to
hear, and it proves how important visibility is to bringing
positive change.” Does the couple’s contract
signify a tide change in the industry? “Hopefully,”
says Santolalla, but “the idea that gay men aren't
strong and powerful has to change in society's mind first.”
4/16/2015
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