Y-32011-12秋冬纽约时装发布会

Y-3 AUTUMN/WINTER 2011-12 - Runway

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Y-3 AUTUMN/WINTER 2011-12 – Front Row, Backstage, Atmosphere

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2011年2月13日，Y-32011-12秋冬时装大秀在纽约的苏豪区闪亮登场，成为纽约时装周的又一大亮点。秀台的设计打破了传统，一条土路装饰成秀台，更加突显了本季“回归大自然”的主题。

Y-3 2011-12秋冬的设计灵感来自“逃离”，人们渴望远离喧嚣的城市，徒步或者骑马走近大自然。Y-3 2011-12秋冬展现了带有未来主义风格的，采用传统面料设计的旅行服饰，具体细节体现在防水拉链、氯丁橡胶垫、闪亮的套索纽扣和符合人体工学的衍缝格纹设计。

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Y-32011-12秋冬系列全方位诠释了“逃离”这个主题，设计灵感主要来自杰克·凯鲁亚克（Jack Kerouac）的著作《在路上》（ On the Road） 和乔恩·克拉考尔（Jon Krakauer）的著作《荒野生存》（Into the Wild）。漏斗形衣领、简单的模块化设计细节、蚕茧般的轮廓、以及上衣、连帽衫、紧身裤的衍缝格纹设计，处处都体现出“保护”的重要概念。在某些山本耀司经典款服装上印有“Nowhere in Particular”、“Homeward

Y-3 2011-12秋冬系列和整个秀演绎的是“旅途”而不是“终点”的概念。宽松舒适的女装，主色调是黑色、橄榄褐色和红色，主要款式有连帽披肩、优雅的燕尾服、羊毛河豚耸肩上衣、原始折边的百褶裙和超大宽腿羊毛裤。Y-3男款遵循了类似的设计风格，主要有军队派克式大衣、条纹西服套装、麂皮和羊毛衍缝格纹夹克和Fair Isle 针织花纹的棉质紧身。

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此季Y-3面料有两个新亮点，也就是Cool Max Wool和Diaplex的加入：Cool Max Wool，一种具有透气快干特性的羊毛；和 Diaplex，一种具有形状记忆功能、防水透气织物的羊毛，面料舒适类似人的第二层皮肤。

Y-3 2011-12秋冬系列配饰也强调了此季温暖和舒适的主题：超大连帽围巾、绗缝尼龙帽、三条皮带装饰的手套—呈现了Y-3传统的三条杠标志。男女鞋款沿袭经典款式的设计理念，继续采用传统面料和阿迪达斯的专业技术元素。例如，像日本武士战靴的男款鞋，其特点是鞋底断开；以及带有“折纸”概念的楔形鞋跟女款鞋。

“旅行就是指回家，”山本耀司在后台解释整场秀的灵感时说，“回家的想法总是情不自禁的萦绕在我们脑海，这是每个人的强烈愿望之一。”

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Y-3 AUTUMN/WINTER 2010-11

Y-3 is on the run from the gloom and doom of the world. Armed with tongue-in-cheek humor, splashes of bright color, and intriguing aesthetic contrasts, the label's Autumn/Winter 2010-11 collection brought a healthy dose of fun back to the runway. Presented on Sunday, February 14th, as part of New York fashion week, the show sought an escapist route to the future of sport style.

Y-3 has always melded technology with tradition, and never has that been more apparent. For Autumn, the label known for sport elegance took inspiration from bespoke English tailoring, reinterpreting classic shapes in futuristic materials, or alternately, classic materials in futuristic shapes. The result was a kinetic and thoroughly modern take on sportswear, on view for guests such as Ciara, Justin Theroux, Alison Brie, Terry Richardson, and Tallulah Harlech. The collection, presented for the second season at the Park Avenue Armory, also captured a playful mood with an industrial laser light show by the British art collective UVA.

This season, Yohji Yamamoto injected Y-3 with as much humor as style, presenting an ode to masked superheroes like Zorro and the Scarlet Pimpernel. Wearing voluminous, layered sportswear in vibrant colorways, the models stalked the runway to the folk tunes of Simon & Garfunkel.

The collection also found inspiration in traditional military garb and deconstructed it in modern ways. Classic A-1 flight jackets unravelled into long sweeping capes, for instance. Elsewhere, cashmere tracksuits combined utility with luxury, sweater jackets explored modularity with removeable shawls and scarves, and oversized jumpsuits emphasized the free-spirited mood. Wool sweaters and cardigans were embroidered with kitten patches and slogans like "I'm thinking prison break" and "World is not fair," underscoring a humor and insouciance that was signature Yamamoto.

"Recently the trend has been for tighter and shorter and sexier clothes," explained the designer. "I wanted to wrap the body again, and not show too much."

Y-3 also took footwear way beyond the classic trainer, presenting sporty mesh heels, metallic silver wedges, and multicolored winklepickers for women, and fluorescent neon basketball shoes for men.

The show closed with a bang and the superhero theme came full circle as Mr. Yamamoto and a masked male model duked it out in front of the audience. Yamamoto emerged as the winner after the hardcore scuffle. That is, until tough-as-nails supermodel Freja Beha knocked the designer back down to the ground.

"I've done this job for 28 years and sometimes I feel like I've done everything," explained Mr. Yamamoto backstage. "This time I said to myself, Yohji, you must have fun!"