三亚后海 宁静小渔村里的柔软时光

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分类: 鱼儿看世界 |
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在三亚,后海只是一个默默无闻的小村庄,隐匿在山与海之间,就连很多三亚的本地人也并不知道它的所在。但只要一提起与后海共处一片海域、相隔仅2.7公里的蜈支洲岛,那是无人不知晓。
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后海村又名滕海渔村,是个小半岛,位于亚龙湾与海棠湾之间,离三亚市区距离35公里,公交28路可直达村口的蜈支洲岛码头。但许多旅客却不知道,当他们匆匆赶搭轮船去蜈支洲岛,总是错过了码头旁边的秘密后花园—后海村。后海村还是中央电视台2000年拍摄千禧年第一缕阳光的地方,被誉为整个三亚最佳的观日出地。
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带着众多的期待,我来到了后海。住进了一家临海客栈。我预定的房间是海景房。好客的房东告诉我后海村的东面是海棠湾,去往蜈支洲岛的码头就在这里。西面是皇后湾(又称帕丁湾、后海湾)。从客栈的院子里一出门就是皇后湾。
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皇后湾是一片长约2公里的半月形海湾。别看皇后湾不怎么起眼,但它拥有着三亚最原始的海岸线。洁白的沙滩松软而厚实,清澈的海水卷起朵朵浪花,偶尔掠过空中的海鸟,发出阵阵鸣叫。
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后海村前拥蔚蓝大海,背倚苍翠群山。浪花、岩礁与海天融为一体。有着水下完整的珊瑚群及色彩斑斓的热带鱼,有着三亚最柔软细腻的海滩,澄澈的海水,以及仍具原色,日落而渔,日出而眠的朴实渔民。
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装好脚架,兴奋地期待着太阳跳出海面的那一瞬间。鲜红的太阳一点一点地升了起来,开始像个大大的蛋黄,没有光芒,只有颜色。随着太阳的升高,光芒渐渐四射,将大海照得红光闪闪。再接着,海上有了倒影,一片海都变得金光闪烁,波光粼粼,仿佛在为初升的太阳欢舞。
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午后,潮水渐渐退却,裸露出大片大片的柔软海滩。尽管阳光炽热,但孩子们还是开心极了!他们冲出院门,跑向不远处的浅水礁石,在石缝、潮汐间拾着海螺和贝壳。潮水声伴随着欢笑声飘荡开来。而大人们,则坐下太阳伞下悠闲地喝着茶看着书,会用余光瞄瞄孩子。那一双双眼睛,闪耀的全是温柔的光芒。
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月上柳梢头,玩累了,在村子里随便找一家海鲜店吃海鲜。当然,也可以在村子东面码头渔民的船上买上新鲜的海鲜,请客栈的老板来烹饪。鸡腿螺、扇贝、海胆蒸蛋、生蚝、鲍鱼、大龙虾、花蟹……总有一样会让你垂涎三尺,让你吃了还想吃。
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除了看日出日落,在后海你还可以感受渔家风情,领略原汁原味的渔村生活,听听渔村老人的漂泊故事,又或者夜海捕鱼,像渔夫一样吼出粗犷的调子。满载而归时,收获的不仅仅只是欢喜。
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但是,如今的后海村也面临着整体搬迁被商业化的命运。皇后湾的那边,听说要修建五星级酒店,山体已经在开挖。或许以后,后海只是一段美好的传说。趁着后海村的盛名还未远扬前,快来这里享受它的柔软时光吧!
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