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北疆行迹之那拉提草原

　　那拉提草原，久闻大名，素未谋面。

　　2012年8月11日，见面了，感觉？俩字：惊艳！

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　　传说成吉思汗西征时，有一支蒙古军队由天山深处向伊犁进发，时值春日，山中却是风雪弥漫，饥饿和寒冷使这支军队疲乏不堪。不想翻过山岭，眼前却是一片繁花织锦的莽莽草原，泉眼密布，流水淙淙，犹如进入了另一个世界，这时云开日出，夕阳如血，人们不由的欢呼“那拉提，那拉提”，于是就留下了这个地名，“那拉提”在蒙古语中意思是“阳光照耀的地方”。

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　　那拉提草原位于新源县，属于巩乃斯大草原的一部分，历来作为哈萨克牧民自冬窝子转场而来的春牧场。不过，如今到处能看到大兴土木的痕迹，我们游玩中也向当地牧民了解到，我们所能见到的毡房和畜群实际上多是为旅游而留下的，大部分牧民家庭都已在政府动员下到山下定居，由此可见当地政府大力发展旅游的决心。大力发展旅游源于经济发展的冲动，但对整个自然和社会环境的影响到底又会如何？山人无知，不敢预料……

　　上图为正在修建中的游客接待中心。

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　　说到草原，一般人往往会想到内蒙那种辽阔但坡度平缓的平原草场，而那拉提草原却类型复杂多样，不但有平缓的河谷草场，还有中山带的山地草甸及海拔较高的亚高山草甸，辽阔的草原，美丽的山岗、群群牛羊和点点毡房构成草原之夏的美丽图景。

　　每年6-9月是草原的黄金季节，我们虽然没赶上野花烂漫的6月，但草原上还有不少植物仍在开花。极目远望有皑皑雪峰，稍近点的山岗上有苍翠的云杉林带，接着是繁花似锦的五花草甸，脚边的巩乃斯河像根银色的飘带，潺潺而来，叮咚而去。据说人少时还会有狐狸、旱獭、野猪、雪鸡等出没在森林和草丛间。眼前景色不正是一张五彩丝线织就的地毯么？绿底彩花，还镶着一条银边花带。这是怎样的一张地毯啊？在蓝天映衬下尤显华丽而气势恢宏。难怪此前发誓要到草地上痛痛快快打个滚的朋友早已忘了这个念头，怕是已被大自然的杰作惊呆了吧。

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　　草原上有欧亚大陆面积最大、保存最完好的野生果林带，被科学考察论定为北方苹果的源种地和野生果类的基因库。位于山坡之上高而尖的当是西伯利亚冷杉，而草甸上矮而圆的，便是野苹果了。

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　　画面中间是处“遗迹”——牧民冬天使用的冬窝子，挖成半地下室，上搭树干拼合的房顶，再覆以枯草，有冬暖夏凉的效果。

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　　草原上空有鹰翱翔。常见的一幕……

　　那拉提草原主要分为“空中草原”和“河谷草原”，站在山口远远望去，路的尽头就是“空中草原”了……

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　　一匹马，温顺地站在路边。盛装，但还看不出神骏，为何这样说？因为这片草原是出产天马的地方，汉武帝刘彻曾为出自伊犁的天马作过两首乐府《天马歌》和《西极天马歌》，据说还曾为征天马不惜发动战争，看看那首《西极天马歌》的词句“天马徕从西极，经万里兮归有德。承灵威兮降外国，涉流沙兮四夷服。”估计就是大获全胜时所作的啦……

　　为了游客安全骑行，还真的只有选这样老实可靠的，其他追求只有牺牲了。

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　　现代化的痕迹……

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　　那拉提的花儿们……

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　　旅游车行至半路，坡上一匹马姗姗而来，栗色，外形极神骏极美，当是牧民自己骑的。步履并不轻健，原来带着马绊子……

　　来到了“空中草原”腹地，到处可见马群、牛群、羊群，还有帐篷群，实际真正游牧用的草原当不会这么密集……

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　　“空中草原”中心一组接待建筑群正在接近尾声，雕塑挺传神的，照两张……

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　　我们更感兴趣的是小牛，很温顺，很乖巧，只顾自己吃草，丝毫不理会我们的打扰……

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　　很想到森林边上去看看，但多人同行，不能自行其是，还是放弃了。

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　　一处供游客参观的毡房，经营着旅游区很“传统”的项目——穿衣照相。项目“传统”，哈萨克刺绣更传统，很值得细细观赏。与之相比，毡房门楣附近挂着的风干肉和羊油，恐怕更为传统吧……

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　　毡房外养着两只小山羊，一黑一白，黑白双煞，不知要“谋杀”多少眼球……

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　　织花带的简易织机，织出的花带是毡房里最重要的装饰。

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　　如果没有这栈道，草原恐怕早就被纷至沓来的游客踩成黑泥地了。

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　　前文《北疆行迹之伊犁河谷》曾拍到俩维吾尔族小孩，今天又发现俩哈萨克小朋友。停下脚步，远远地静静地观赏着俩小破孩游戏，一会儿争吵拌嘴，一会儿合作无间，一切是那么自然而然。让游人的心也跟着不由地静了下来……

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　　要下山了，山下还有“河谷草原”，远处是定居点。

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 （长卷，请拖动滑动条欣赏）

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　　官方的“河谷草原”不如“空中草原”好玩，山上应该再多留点时间。

　　山下的景，主要有一处古乌孙贵族的墓葬，可以在车上远远打望一下，一处不很显眼的隆起；后面会有一处哈萨克名人堂，和仿制的现代化精致版“冬窝子”；接着，可以骑马。

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　　去年去喀纳斯，因为种种原因，儿子没能骑上马，这回，过足了瘾。

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　　帮宇儿妈妈牵马的漂亮小姑娘刚参加完高考，已经被新疆大学录取。还有几个小伙子小姑娘都是她的同学。

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　　此刻窗外天色阴沉，阵阵风来颇有几分寒意。坐在窗前，赏图，攒字，再不时轻啜一口普洱，心中温暖，而平静。

　　草原上遇到喜事，或者来了尊贵的客人，哈萨克人都要由年纪较大、儿子齐全、丈夫健在、本人德高望重、深受群众爱戴的妇女向人群抛撒奶疙瘩、方块糖、水果糖、包尔沙克等，让人们抢着吃来分享欢乐、吉祥和幸福。这种表示祝福和欢迎的仪式，哈萨克人称之为“恰秀”，即“撒”的意思。

　　借此图，祝福大家欢乐、吉祥和幸福。

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