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北疆行迹之仪态万方喀纳斯

 

　　去年的喀纳斯向我们展示了她的端庄秀丽，今年的喀纳斯却尽显其变幻莫测或曰仪态万方。若问此言何来？因为我们一天之内经历了风和日丽、狂风暴雨、电闪雷鸣，还有披头盖脸的冰雹、大雨初霁的彩虹和傍晚的彩云满天，岂不是仪态万方？

　　因为不跟团，所以早上走得很从容，自然到达也比较晚。等我们走到位于贾登峪的喀纳斯景区大门时，已经是正午1点，显然这次不可能走遍所有的点了。根据我们去年来游玩的情况，建议大家坐车到卧龙湾后下到河边走一截栈道，亲水体验，然后乘车到湖边再兵分两路，我们一家到去年因时间关系没去成的观鱼亭观赏全景，朋友一家乘船游湖。大家一致通过，买票进园，换乘区游客不多，一切顺利。

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　　我们因为来过，所以感觉轻车熟路，顺着奔涌的喀纳斯河，很快来到第一个点——卧龙湾。

卧龙湾

　　河中卧龙和一对神仙脚印风姿依旧，河水却大有不同，今年呈现出略带绿色的乳白。早就听说喀纳斯河水多变，去年耳闻，今年目睹，果然名不虚传。

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　　从卧龙湾下行到月亮湾重新返回公路边，整条栈道大约5公里，正常步行单程大约需要一个多小时，我们一行有老太太，也完全没有影响行进速度，真好！栈道沿着湖边的轮廓曲曲折折向前行去，沿途一边是平静的河水，远看乳白此时却变得清澈，偶尔来到一处落差稍大的石阵处，河水左冲右突奔涌向前，便有了轰鸣的涛声和洁白的浪花；虽有时断时续的轻柔雨丝袭面，天气仍算得晴朗，湖对岸高耸的冷杉和白桦清晰可辨，再远处还能望见青翠欲滴的山脉；栈道的另一边，是茂密的原始森林，实际上我们就在林中穿行，密林深处不时有鸟鸣悠悠传来，也不时有小松鼠受惊，跳过厚厚的落叶枯枝消失不见。途中还有不少林木东倒西歪地横卧在地，树根黝黑虬曲，远比我们见过的不少根雕更霸气，还有些明明树干已腐朽变黑，仍有满身清脆，既有苔藓，也有仍然活着的枝叶，更显神奇。这些倒木多是白桦，印证了李娟书中所说的白桦看似粗壮但脆弱易折。

　　已是午后二、三点钟，林中少有人迹，一束束光线从树梢枝叶中穿过，投下斑斑点点，河中水湾处几只野鸭悠闲戏水，泼啦啦的水声和树涛呼应，静谧安宁。

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　　已是午后二、三点钟，林中少有人迹，一束束光线从树梢枝叶中穿过，投下斑斑点点，河中水湾处几只野鸭悠闲戏水，泼啦啦的水声和树涛呼应，静谧安宁。

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　　栈道转而向上，月亮湾到了！

月亮湾

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　　在月亮湾换乘站我们重又坐上区间车。途径神仙湾，尽管司机大哥说今天的神仙湾是这段时间里最美的一天，力劝我们下车，但是尊重同行老人家和习惯腐败游的朋友意见，忍痛放弃，继续前行！

　　不过，虽然放弃也没留下遗憾，详情后表。

　　车到换乘中心，两家暂时“分道扬镳”。让朋友带着老太太去坐船，我们上观鱼亭“补课”。

观鱼亭

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　　途中已经见到不远的山头上阴云密布，云下迷迷蒙蒙，应该是已在下雨，我们这边还阳光灿烂，心中有点小窃喜。相机对着山那头拍了又拍。拍个不停不是因为心中窃喜，而是有奇景，虽然雨雾弥漫，仍有阳光穿透云层射下，形成光柱，这就是摄影界常说的“耶稣光”。尽管雨雾影响让光柱不是很明显，但仍能让人心中震撼，不失其神性，怪不得名为“耶稣光”。

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　　导游和各种小册子都说从山底下车处到观鱼亭有1068级台阶，这估计吓退了很多人，实际真正走上去，会发现踏道很平缓，走着还能气定神闲，并不像传说中那么可怕。

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　　没容我们气定神闲多久，雨来啦！而且很大。

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　　我们冒雨冲上山顶，冒雨远观喀纳斯湖，还冒雨研究清楚了，湖中拖着长长尾迹的不是湖怪而是游船。不过人越聚越多，楼上楼下密不透风，学建筑的人对这种人群聚集的危险更为警惕，所以趁着雨势稍缓，我们决定下山。

　　前前后后同行的，还有两三家。

　　走到一半，雨势忽又转大，接着就开始噼里啪啦，下起了黄豆大的冰雹。后退，不可取，只好一鼓作气冲下山，坐上区间车才算缓了口气。宇儿妈妈直怪自己没听我的带上冲锋衣，不过是不是真能吸取教训，再说了……

　　返回换乘中心，雨住风停。接着又让我们深深体会到什么叫苦尽甘来。一道彩虹挂上山间，还让我们幸运地拍到了转瞬即逝的两道彩虹镶套的奇景。“不经历风雨，怎么见彩虹”说的还真没错！没经过雨打风吹冰雹砸，彩虹哪有这么美？

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　　回程经过神仙湾，下车！因为这会儿的神仙湾波光粼粼烟雾袅袅，比下午时更美。

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　　回到贾登峪乘上我们自己的车返程。暮色渐起，满天云霞，太阳给所有云团勾上金边或泼上金辉，美不胜收！

　　一片云，变幻成逐日的金马，蹄声得得，踏空而去……

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• 天地记 (Paul Oakenfold Remix)
• Matta Dub (Ha Ha Lili Remix)
• Famous Friends (Ha Ha Lili Remix)
• 希然宁泊 - 自省 心经
• 幸运日
• 小树和大树
• 快乐节
• 云云南南
• 蓝色骏马
• 石榴女人
• 自由行走的花
• 绿衣女孩
• 天地记