在古代,城是一个国家或是一个地区的政治中心、军事中心,甚至还是文化中心和经济中心等。大大小小的城,构成了级别不同、特色各异的中心。随着时光的流逝,冷兵器时代已一去不返,城的初始功能也日渐消失,失去了根本功能,也就失去了存在的依靠,因此,有的城在风侵雨蚀的自然魔力中渐塌渐圮,有的在人为改造和建设中被夷为平地,有的变成了现代大道,有的代之以参天大厦……可以说,保存较完整的古城实在是寥寥无几了。
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城墙断面 <>
该图是台州府城兴善门(南门)西侧的城墙断面,断面的层次十分清楚,可以分辨也历朝历代整修加固的痕迹。
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Longitudinal Section of the City Wall
<> Here is a longitudinal section of
the city wall to the west of Xingshan gate (the south gate) in
Taizhou City. Different earth layers of the wall can be clearly
seen, showing renovations and reinforcement work made through the
ages.
不过,到了今天,那些寥若星辰的古城,又被人们赋予了新的价值,即历史文化的价值。临海城即是历史遗留下来为数不多的古城之一。在大江以南,像临海这样的古城可谓凤毛麟角。若以保留历史信息原始物的多少而言,在国内恐怕也算是屈指可数的了。临海城,是一个从地域意义上所赋予的名称,因为这座城自古以来就建在临海。从唐初设置台州开始,州治及以后的路治、府治都一直设在临海,从这一视角而言,它不是临海县的县城,而是台州府的府城。
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台州府城墙城砖 <> 自右至左依次为宋、明、清城砖。
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City Wall Bricks of Taizhou Prefecture
<> They are bricks made in Song,Ming
and Qing dynasties (from right to left).
台州城大体呈方形,周长六千多米。城的北面蜿蜒在北固山的山脊上,有如蛇蚓曲行,高低起伏,长达两千余米。大固山的西北角是山的最高处,也是北面城墙和西面城墙的转角处。西面城墙从这里开始南向急下,城墙的外侧壁立千仞,极雄伟峻险之至。下至山脚便是城的西门朝天门。从朝天门开始继续南伸,然后转而向东,直至东城墙,这西南两面城墙的相交处没有明显的转角点,其间实际上呈弧形状态,长有三千余米,统统都是临江而筑。东面城墙除北固山上的一段外,地表以上基本上没有保存下来,她的基址从揽胜门开始,往南沿着东湖路,再沿大桥路的东侧,一直到灵江江岸与南城墙相接。台州府城的现状大略如此。但在历史上,特别是初始时期,城的规模迥异于此。
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古城模型(清代风貌) <>
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A Model of the Ancient City (in Qing-Dynasty Style and Features)
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城的始建年代,大约在东晋末期,推测是在东晋末年孙恩领导的农民起义大军在北固山与临海郡太守辛景之间一场大战的前后。按照《辞海》的说法:“东晋时孙恩起义,曾与郡守辛景大战于此。临海旧城相传为辛景抵御孙恩所筑。”而现存古代文献首次明确论及临海城的,是宋陈耆卿《嘉定赤城志》卷十九所引的《壁记序》,引文称:“隋平陈,并临海镇于大固山,以千人护其城。”只是当时城的范围较小,仅仅是大固山的西北段至山麓一带,大体相当于后来的子城,面积不超过六万七千平方米。
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宋《嘉定赤城志》卷首《罗城图》 <>
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Skctch Map of Luocheng on the First Page of Annals of Chicheng of
Jiading Reign(Southern Song dynasty)
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临海城的扩大在唐初,文献、传说比较混乱。一种说法是“唐武德间刺史杜伏威所迁,李淳风所择”,另一种说法称“唐尉迟敬德”所造。但问题是,杜伏威有没有任过台州刺史,尉迟敬德有没有到过台州,文献都付诸阙如。有一点可以肯定,就是城的扩建时间在唐代初期。建城的一个辅助标志就是州城隍庙的出现。据宋《嘉定赤城志》载:“州城隍庙,在大固山东北,唐武德四年(621)建。”彼此互证,州城亦当筑于武德年间。唐代诗人许浑在台州时,写过一首《陪郑使君泛舟晚归》诗,诗的前两句为“南郭望归处,郡楼高抱帘”,“郭”指外城,所谓南郭,即指西南濒临江岸的城郭,也就是作者泛舟登岸的地方。唐代以后,台州城曾一度被拆。被拆的原因完全是因为政治上的关系。吴越钱氏自唐昭宗乾宁四年(897)据有台州,台州就成了钱氏的属地。此后的五代时期,这里没有发生过什么战争,百姓过着比较安定的日子。时光飞逝,历史很快进入到宋代,公元九六0年,宋太祖赵匡胤正式确立了北宋王朝。九七五年,灭南唐,南唐后主李煜成了北宋的俘虏。一年后,赵匡义继位,称宋太宗。赵匡义做事比他的哥哥赵匡胤狠辣得多,钱氏审时度势,相继遣使,表示称臣。太平兴国三年(978)四月,钱氏亲自奔赴汴京,向宋太宗“乞罢所封吴越国王,及解兵马大元帅”。
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彭思永庆历复州城 <>
北宋庆历五年(1045),大水毁城,朝廷遣太常博士彭思永至台督修,历时三旬而竣。继尔又在城的外表甃以砖石,使之愈加坚固。
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Peng Siyong Supervised the Restoration of Taizhou City Wall in
Qingli Reign <> The City Wall was
destroyed by flood in 1045, so Court Academician Taichang was sent
by the imperial government of the Northern Song dynasty to Taizhou
to supervise the restoration of the Wall. The work was done after 3
years, Later the outer city was consolidated with stones and
bricks.
赵匡义表面上没有同意罢他的封号,但当钱氏要求返还江南时,则留而不放,实际上是对钱氏实施了软禁。钱氏觉得不妙,两日后,即五月初一日立即请求“献其两浙诸州”,这才合了宋太宗的心意,吴越国的版图从此彻底消失。但事情并未就此了结,这一年七月十五日,那位已经禁押了两年半的俘虏南唐后主李煜,遭毒身亡。李煜之死,不知出于什么原因,也不知是否做给钱氏看,但足以使钱氏心胆俱裂。为了表明心迹,钱俶慌忙派人命原吴越国境内“堕其城示不设备”。台州城也不例外,很快就拆除了全部城垛,“所存唯缭墙”。三十余年后的大中祥符年间,城墙又全部恢复。北宋庆历五年(1045),暴雨成灾,城多毁坏,朝廷遣太常博士彭思永至台督修,聚台州各邑之力,历三旬而毕。之后,复砌之以砖石。
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徐太守以牛践土葺南郭 <>
北宋嘉祐六年(1061),大水毁南城,知州徐亿以牛践土而筑之,每晚穴水一盂,至次日水不耗为止。
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Prefecture Chief Xu Got the South City Wall Repaired with Oxes
Tamping down the Earth on it <> After
the south city wall was destroyed by the floods in the 6th year of
Jiayou reign of the Northern Song dynasty (1061), Prefecture Chief
Xu Yi rebuilt it with oxes tamping down the earth on it.
熙宁四年(1071),郡守钱暄内迁东城墙。据陈耆卿《嘉定赤城志》卷二载:“按故基,东自小鉴湖,循清心岭而南,萦抱旧放池,直接城山岭古通越门土地庙处。盖今湖昔地皆闉?中物也。后乃徙之而西,缩入里余。”也就是说,我们现在所见到的东城墙墙址即熙宁四年(1071)迁徙后的基址,而在迁徙之前,东城墙的位置是在东湖以外,亦即今钱暄路一带。内迁东城墙的目的主要是为了排涝。临海好称“水国”,水灾频繁,湖在城内,东北诸山之水都汇集到这里,一逢秋涝,城内几乎都是水,当时的郡守钱暄将其作为自己任内的一项德政,采取浚湖筑城的办法,即取东湖(此前为船场水军营)淤积之土,迁筑东面城墙,可谓一举两得。
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钱暄像 <>
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Qian Xuan’s Portrait <>
东城筑就以后,钱暄又对东湖通向灵江的渠道进行了整治,把它改造成一条护城河。东门加筑了月城,用吊桥启闭。此举也大大增强了台州城的军事防御功能:北以大固山为屏障,西南借灵江为天堑,东则以湖、河分隔,遇敌无直冲之患。宋代的台州城设七门,东称崇和门,东南称靖越门,南叫兴善门,西南叫镇宁门,又有丰泰门,西曰括苍门,又有朝天门,北面限山无门。每个城门都建有城楼,崇和门上叫惠风楼,靖越门上叫靖越楼,兴山门上称超然楼,镇宁门上谓神秀楼,括苍门上曰集仙楼,朝天门上叫兴公楼。子城设东、南、西三门,东叫顺政门,楼名东山阁;南为谯门,楼即称谯楼;西叫延庆门,楼名迎春。
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钱暄开湖移东城 <>
北宋熙宁四年(1071),郡守钱暄将原船场水军营浚凿而成东湖,并将东城墙内移里许,使城池既增强了泄涝排洪的能力,又改善了东城一带军事防御的地理条件。
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Qian Xuan Constructed Lake and Moved East City Wall
<> In the 4th year of Xining reign of
the Northern Song dynasty (1071), Prefecture Chief Qian Xuan turned
the shipyard for the boat troops into the East Lake and had the
east city wall moved about one li inward. This project enhanced the
ability of the city to discharge floodwater and control floods. It
also strengthened the military defense around.
从熙宁四年开始,城的框架已经固定下来,其后的各个朝代,无论是城墙还是城内的基本格局,都没有什么大的变化,有的只是对城墙增高补缺,加宽加厚而已。勾稽大要,约略如下:
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赵宰相(汝愚)问政修旧堞 <>
南宋淳熙二年(1175),知州赵汝愚问政于民,乃知台之首务,以城为要,遂为大修。汝遇后历官至宰相。
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Prime Minister Zhao (Ruyu) Had the Battlements Repaired after
Making Investigation <> It was in the
2nd year of Chunxi reign of the Southern Song dynasty (1175) the
Prefecture Chief Zhao Ruyi get to know after making inquiries among
the people that the protective city walls were of primary
importance. So major construction work was undertaken Later he was
promoted to the high official position of prime minister.
公元一一七五年,郡守赵汝愚惧城复圮于水,为之大修,计用工一万五千三百七十六,用钱二十一万七千九百贯,用米四千六百石。一一七六年,大水城危,知州尤袤提护修葺,“城全,邦人歌之”。一二二九年,大水淹城,城多毁坏。浙东提举叶棠亲自至台督修,除葺废补缺外,将全部城墙增高二尺,加厚三尺,又在城的外侧加筑捍城,内侧增筑高台,同时,为降低水患,塞括苍、丰泰二门。时人誉为“矗然伟观,可并边城”。一五五二年,因倭寇日炽,大修城池。
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古丰泰门石刻 <>
古丰泰门在古城与南门之间,南宋绍定二年(1229)浙东提举叶棠莅台,修城时为减轻水患将其堵塞,清康熙十七年(1718)曾一度重开,咸丰八年(1858)复塞。门址墙上所嵌的“古丰泰门”额系民国十二年(1923)临海知县陈锡畴立、王镇书。
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Stone Inscription at Ancient Fengtai Gate
<> The ancient Fengtai Gate stands
between the west and south gates of the historic city wall. It was
blocked up for the sake of reducing floods by Ye Tang, who had the
official title of Tiju of East Zhejiang, and who came to Taizhou
for the repair of the city wall in the 2nd year of Shaoding reign
of the Southern Song dynasty. The Gate was reopened in 1718 for
some time and closed again in 1858. The horizontal tablet of
“Ancient Fengtai Gate” on the gate site wall was set up in 1923 by
Chen Xichou, the county magistrate of Linhai and was in Wang Zhen’s
handwriting.
一六五八年,惧郑成功来攻,摄兵备道胡文烨、署台州知府王阶全面整葺城池,同时将城增高三尺,垛口并三为一,增修大固山敌台。一七一二年,台州知府张联元筑沿江靖越、兴善、镇宁、朝天四门瓮城。降及近代,枪炮渐兴,而城之功用日失。至于台州城,由于临江而筑,洪灾不断,故而当地依然爱护有加,这也可算古城之幸,亦乃临海之幸了。
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镇宁门 <>
镇宁门为古城南门之一,俗称小南门,门内之府前街向北直通台州府衙。
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Zhenning Gate <> It is one of the
south gates of the ancient city wall and commonly called Little
South Gate. Through the gate you are in the Fuqian Road that leads
directly to the former government office of Taizhou.