Dom Pérignon's chef de cave, Richard Geoffroy, graduated as a doctor, but was inexorably pulled back to the land.

Interview by Caroline Henry
Posted Wednesday, 20-Mar-2013

 

Where did you grow up?

I am a seventh-generation winemaker, born and raised in Champagne, and I am proud of it. I grew up in the village of Vertus in the Côte des Blancs. My dad was the president of the Syndicat des Vignerons for 17 years, which also made him the co-chairman of the CIVC [the region's main wine body].

 

Yet you first trained as a doctor?

Yes, I did. I see it as my teenage symptom of rebellion. However, I am really glad I studied medicine, as this period did a lot for me; I became a richer person in so many ways over the eight years of my studies, and I feel it was worth every year.

 

Why did you decide to return to the world of wine?

When you come from the land, you belong to the land. Once a farmer, I believe, you are always a farmer – there is an invisible umbilical cord which eventually pulls you back. So I did the natural thing and went back to my roots.

 

You worked first in the Napa Valley. How different was it from Champagne?

It was very different, yet at the same time very similar. There are obvious differences in the climate, terroir, and the people. Yet one has, just like in Champagne, to be true to the terroir and express the local genes of the place – express the California-ness, just like here I express the Champagne-ness.

 

It is important to remember that there are no recipes; a wine is always very cultural and local at the base. I learned a lot in my time in Napa, and owe a lot to the U.S. It is a very important country to me – I find it very energetic and inspiring.

 

Which sparkling-wine region in the world, if any, do you think can take on Champagne?

This is a difficult question, as lots of people in lots of different places produce excellent sparkling wines. Yet I do not think I would pick the U.S. or Europe but believe that Australia and New Zealand have great potential. I am specifically thinking of the regions of Victoria and Marlborough, where I made wine for Moët & Chandon in the '90s, and in my time there I saw great potential.

 

© AFP | L-R: A tableau of Dom Pérignon's Champagne-making at Hautvillers Abbey; Richard Geoffroy (R) shows visitors the vines

 

What is it you most dislike in a wine?

Wine snobs; they do so much harm to wine. Wine needs to be appreciated and fun, not be put out of reach by language barriers and jargon.

 

What has been your best experience in the wine industry?  And the worst?

Best: I was very touched by an experience in Japan in 2000. I attended an extraordinary dinner in a Zen temple – Daito Kuji. We ate vegetarian food prepared by the monks, in the company of the Zen master. This was a very spiritual and amazing experience. Wow!

Worst: When people are critical of Dom Pérignon for the wrong reasons. Wine critics do not have to be nasty. Objective elements are critical but often not used. I am often puzzled by some positions taken, however I realize it is part of my job as a creator to face unfair criticism.

 

What do you think of the zero dosage trend?

It is a curiosity for me. I am intrigued to see some people are making it, but I do not think I will go down this route with Dom Pérignon. For me, the dosage is the final touch to the balance of the wine; as long as the dosage is decided carefully and expertly, it will, in my opinion, add an extra touch. 

 

Do you think the blend or the second fermentation in bottle has the greatest impact on the wine style?

I believe the blend is crucial as it will define the structure and the soul of the wine; the lengthy yeast maturation will assist in expressing these characteristics. So I think the blend is most important, but the true character of the blend can only be expressed through lengthy yeast maturation.

 

What impact is the economic recession having on the wine industry?

For Dom Pérignon, there has been amazingly little impact, if any. We are on a specific path, we are an object of desire which can go through more difficult times. However, this is also very committing, as we have to live up to our reputation and aura.

 

Has wine become just another commodity?

I hope not, because if this happens, we have all failed. Wine has to remain special without being elitist. Whenever you sip wine, I hope people will realize this is something special, even at the lower end of the scale.

 

© AFP | Hautvilliers Abbey

 

What is your view of the Robert Parker 100-point system of ranking wines?

I believe Robert Parker is a free man who came up with the system, but I feel people have to be discerning enough to not follow the system blindly. It is one of many systems; there are others, and I respect them. At the same time I hope I am not too dependent on systems as it can interfere with a perspective.

 

All in all, I believe wine critics are important as they keep producers on their toes.

 

You travel a great deal. Do you ever get sick of living out of a suitcase?

No, I love traveling – I find regular inspiration in travel. It is like the outside fuel for my engine. If I was to stay in one place all the time, I would dry out. I believe any creator needs to resource energy from the outside. However, my primary duty is to make wine. So the travel needs to be balanced.

 

What are your best tips for travel?

Be open and available to absorb, and be physically fit. When you are tired, there are not many benefits, as you function on automatic pilot rather than taking in the experience. Therefore pace yourself in everything you eat and drink, and try to get enough rest and exercise.

 

Tell us about your love of poetry.

I have a weakness for words – they are the simplest of things yet they are the extension of our spirit. The ultimate seduction comes through words. That is why I write all the text related to the wines myself even if it takes me a long time. Those words are as much a part of my creation as the wine is – they are intermingled.

 

In wine terms, who are your heroes?

I am very happy that I have a great relationship with Dominique Foulon. We worked together from 1982 to 1996 and he left the company in 2000, and yet in 2013, we are still in close contact, which says it all. When I took over, my role was to fine-tune his legacy. When my time comes to hand over, I hope I have added value to the legacy – that I have been humble enough to receive something and given it my all before handing it over to the next generation.

 

What do you drink on a “school night”?

I drink wine every day, but in moderation. I cannot take much alcohol, so I tend to sample micro-volumes of everything. Sometimes I also drink beer. I am especially drawn to Belgian beers, which I find very balanced in an almost wine-balance way.

 

Do you have a wine-and-food match you find hard to resist?

Dom Pérignon and white truffle.

 

Where would you like to be buried?

In my village, Cheney, located north of Reims, in the middle of the vineyard. The graveyard is beautiful, with a view of the vines, on a south-facing slope, and is wonderfully quiet and calm.

 

What would you want the last wine you taste to be?

The latest wine I have made.

 

What do you see when you look in the mirror?

Hopefully someone who is dedicated – not cutting corners – and caring for people. We need to care more; empathy is important in this world where people are often too selfish. I learned that from my time in medicine.

 

Do you have any regrets?

I don’t like to have regrets. But sometimes I wonder if I could have pushed harder. Then again, I know it is hard to push hard all the time, and regrets are no good.

 

What do you think would make the world a better place?

Drinking wine (in moderation). Wine is one of the greatest things for the cause of peace – it brings people together in an intimate way. People want to share their experiences over a glass of wine, they want to connect and express views. And as long as we are discussing and communicating, the world is a safer and better place. Wine has this power.