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Comtes Blanc 1981: more purity than exoticism

(2014-10-02 20:11:23)
标签:

champagne

香槟

comtes

taittinger

1981

分类: 嘉明话香槟

Comtes <wbr>Blanc <wbr>1981: <wbr>more <wbr>purity <wbr>than <wbr>exoticism
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs 1981 (750ml)

Thanks to Johnny for sharing this excellent bottle procured from a German collector's private cellar.

 

Tasted in end Sept, 2014. Served upon uncorking.

Bright golden robe with reflections of bronze. 

Captivating bouquet of pervasive white truffle, dusted with crushed chalk & cushioned by still fresh lemony, green appley fruit.

 

The palate is surprisingly fresh & vivacious for her age. Classic green-toned purity of Cote des Blancs Chardonnay -- lime, lemon, green apple, and a touch vegetal, too. This freshness is well integrated with lovely (but not overt) complexities of toast, hints of nut, and just touch of sweet perfume (evolved dosage) so typical of Comtes Blanc.

 

Personally, I really prefer the classic purity & finesse of 81s to the gamey richness of 82s. But sadly, 81 is a tiny crop, thus 81 bubblies are much harder to come by nowadays. While Comtes Blanc traditionally revealed much more exotic charm (particularly with post disgorgement age) than classic purity, Comtes 81 is undoubtedly more of a purist.

 

Regrettably, despite the healthy cellaring of this bottle, it does not last long with open air. On the second pour, it becomes decidedly older, dominated by honeyed plum,  bruised apple & walnut characters.

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