Thanks to Donny for sharing this thought-provoking bottle!

Photo by Xiao P

Jacques Selosse ‘Substance’ Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne (750ml)

100% Chardonnay; mono-cru Avize; solera system

Disgorged in June 2005

Tasted in June 2013

I was not a fan of Champagne Jacques Selosse. My previous encounters with Selosse (one oxidized bottle each of ‘Initial’ and ‘Substance’, plus one corked bottle of Rose) surely didn't help either. So this time before popping the cork, I was actually bit worried how oxidized it might turn out to be, further considering its 8 years’ post disgorgement ageing…

Sound bottle pressure. Nice cork condition. And most importantly, very healthy bottle aromas: lees & spice complexed yellow fruits and mineral scents, with just moderately oxidative notes – no more oxidative than a recent released bottle of Bollinger Grande Annee. So thanks to Donny, this is my first successful experience with Selosse Champagne...

Burnished gold. Smooth but still lively mousse. 8 years’ post disgorgement ageing has served to integrate all the components into a harmonious and resonant whole. Layers of fruit & minerality densely packed into fine-grained texture. Broad & intense, complex & lively, with no austerity at all. There is still some ‘green’ vegetal character here, typical of Avize... Overall, such is the structure & body that one could swear there is considerable portion of Pinot Noir in the blend, if tasted blind.

This broad-shouldered, serious wine is aptly named. Definitely more Burgundian in tone than classically Champenoise. When on form like this bottle, oak well integrated & oxidative tones properly contained, it’s infinitely appealing, especially to people who have difficulty in coming to terms with classically austere Champagne.