Thanks to Donny for sharing this serious wine of Champagne!

De Sousa & Fils Cuvée des Caudalies Millesime 2004 Brut Grand Cru Champagne (750ml)

Disgorged in March 2009

- A blend of old vine (50+ years old) Chardonnays from the Estate’s biodynamically farmed vineyards in Cote des Blancs Grands Crus of Oger, Avize & Le Mesnil.

- First fermentation by indigenous yeasts & conducted entirely in oak barriques, with around 10%-15% new oak each year. Malo carried out.

- During lees aging in bottle, De Sousa employs a labor-intensive exercise called poignetage, i.e., vigorously shaking each bottle by wrist to put the lees in suspension to enrich the wine. This practice is rarely performed nowadays in Champagne region.

First served upon uncorking.

Straw gold with reflections of bronze, a relatively deep color for a Blanc de Blancs of such young vintage -- an indication of oak influence.

The bouquet is not overtly woody at all, thanks to restrained approach to new oak. But the unctuous, oily, fat aromas strongly demonstrate the effect of oak & conceal the fruit beneath, only letting out merest traces of cheese & white fruit. As expected, the palate is equally unctuous, but not overblown thanks to the brisk acidity, which keeps the wine vibrant. Old vine concentration & leesy richness are clearly on display. The fruit profile at this stage is mainly of white fruit, with hints of plum. Round & sensually rich, with a touch of natural sweetness typical of Oger. But, to be honest, the unctuousness (oak effect) is so dominant at this moment that it really bothers me, feeling saturating & masking the fruit & terroir from speaking out. I know this is a protective gown that covers up the young wine now.

Some 40 minutes after uncorking, it changes quite dramatically! The unctuous gown has been shaken off. Now a breathtakingly pure, racy heart of crystalline citrus & pungent chalkiness shines through. It unleashes compelling substance, depth & length, reminding you of its name of pride (‘Caudalie’ is a unit of time to measure the length of aftertaste)! And the taste now is not unlike a young Salon. I really admire & enjoy this phase.

Excellent acidity of 04 & substance from old vine come hand in hand, protected by micro-oxygenation from 1^st fermentation in oak. This shall reward you with more complexities & more finesse as well, with a few years in a proper cellar.