Billecart-Salmon Grande Cuvée 1996 Brut Champagne (750ml)

Pinot Noir 60%; Chardonnay 40%. 

* Billecart-Salmon’s prestige cuvée is the vintage-dated Nicolas François Billecart. While, in the most exceptional years (more selected than Cuvée NF Billecart), Billecart produces small quantities of Grande Cuvée, a blend that their cellar master says represents “the best of the best”. It’s sourced from a similar selection of villages as the Cuvée Nicolas François, and in practice, it's often the same wine released much later (a minimum of ten years on the lees).

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Tasted in Feb., 2013

Served upon uncorking. Vivid, bright gold, with reflections of jade. Pinpoint bubbles.

Ultra-refined & sleek bouquet shift seamlessly from discreet depth of chalk (enlivened by lime blossom), smoke & toast, gradually towards seductive richness of honey, apricot & butter, seasoned by exotic spice and retaining chalky finesse.

The first attack is still charged with explosive vigor. Energetic bubbles force the steely chalkiness to the upfront – highly savory for connoisseurs of classic style Champagne. In this initial stage (well chilled), the serious, linear depth of chalk, smoke, toast & roasted almond prevails, wrapped in a dark, silky gown. The vibrant acidity keeps it perfectly fresh and lifted. Matured wisdom, with admirable vigor.

With more aeration in the bottle and as it gradually warms up, subsequent servings reveal more charm. Lush, almost voluptuous fruit (citrus, apricot). Creamy, ample texture. This lovely wine successfully calls on the exceptional sugar levels (of fruit) to gracefully wrap up the formidable acidity of 96. Or, the other way around, the excellent acidity gives the lush fruit a perfect lift. Some coffee-like complexity just begins to emerge. The steely chalkiness & almond-like fine bitterness do not fail to encore the back palate, reminding us that class is no less important than charm, if no more.

The filigreed texture and completeness make it gastronomically versatile. Delicious now. But judging from the freshness, purity and unhurried evolution, this shall age gracefully.