Bollinger "Vieilles Vignes Francaises" Blanc de Noirs Brut Champagne 1999 (750ml)

Photo by Johnny

Purchased in 2008

Tasted in April, 2012 

Healthy pressure is felt when popping the cork. Many fine bubbles glitter against gold-bronze robe. The bouquet is immediately captivating, ultra-refined yet superbly concentrated: honeycomb, preserved dark fruits, cassis, praline and chalk in liquer-like density. With aeration, the aromas become fatter: oily and oaky.

Just a sip, when one is still amazed by the ethereal, silky entry, a serious, demanding core of dark flavored, bitter-sweet extracts already explode: preserved dark fruits, cassis, raisin and praline, with almost severe expression of chalkiness! When you are still dumbfounded by the monster-like authority and weight on the mid palate, the lingering aftertaste already resonates the oily, dark flavors with bold yet crystalline chalkiness in a silky, vinous sensation.

One must say the acidity is so easy-going (due to vintage limitations) that you can savor this nectar on its own without any food to comfort your stomach. On the other hand, its monster-like saturation of substance, even if disguised by flawless, silky texture and grace, makes you feel so full, almost like taking in an entire meal already!

It continues to reveal new facets and nuances as it sits in the glass. Truffle, sandalwood, brown-butter and grilled apple are added to the broad and rich aromas. The dark, bitter-sweet flavors feel almost syrupy.

Half an hour after opening, the bouquet picks up exotic spicy tone.

This is most likely the champagne of the vintage. A monster of flavor saturation packed effortlessly in silky, vinous grace. In a low acid year like 1999, you really cannot do much better than this. Beautiful now. Don't age.

Last but not least, I actually find it beneficial to chill this very ripe vintage in order to retain more poise and depth.