Photo by Johnny

Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 1998 Brut Champagne (750ml)

Alcohol by volume: 13%

Grape proportions: 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay

1^st fermentation partly in stainless steel and partly in oak barrels, without malolactic fermentation

Disgorged in March, 2007

Tasted in July, 2010

Served upon uncorking. Very pale in color, yet with discreet amber hue. Streams of fine bubbles.

Super concentrated bouquets right from the start: dense layers of dark fruits, dried apricot, butterscotch and acacia honey, instantly overtaken by bright citrus confit.

The palate is supremely focused and tightly coiled, with bright, rich citrus fruit and citrus confit lifted by terrific acidity. The rich fruit and tough acidity constantly battle against each other, achieving a stunning counterbalance of natural sweetness and acidity onto impressively long and vinous finish, with a subtle touch of chalky minerality.

With more airing, the bouquets take on a subtle oily fatness, while the palate is still focused on citrus fruit, with extra bonus of roasted coffee beans and dark chocolate coming out on the finish.

Around 50 mins after uncorking, the fruit seems to retreat on the palate, leaving behind dominant coffee notes and ‘stomach-corrosive’ acidity.

Around 1 hour and 10 mins, the acidity begins to melt down and the palate starts to soften with creamy hawthorn fruit, while the nose is still intense and striking!

This is stunning stuff, which needs extensive cellaring (at least till its 20^th birthday) to unfold its ultra sophisticated spectrum from today’s rich extracts. Yet it’s also very accessible and generous today even in its primary youth. A great Clos des Goisses, which is worth seeking out and then waiting with patience…

One last note: the two of us do not feel the extra alcoholic strength (this one is 13% by volume,for a Champagne!) while sharing this 750ml bottle. But as we stepped out of the restaurant, we actually feel quite heady – that tells the vinous strength of Clos des Goisses, Champagne’s most privileged terroir!