Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru 1997 Extra Brut Champagne (Blanc de Blancs)

                                                                                                                          Photo by Johnny

Lying on the lower slops of the Grand Cru village of Avize can be found the lieux-dits of La Fosse, Nemery and Champ Cain. Jacquesson’s three parcels on these south-east facing sites were planted to Chardonnay between 1962 and 1983.

Vinified in 40 and 75 hectoliter oak casks, an assemblage of the three parcels was bottled on 3rd June, 1998 to become 'Avize Grand Cru 1997'. The total production was 25,465 bottles, 1,180 magnums and 60 jeroboams.

Tasted in July, 2010. Served upon uncorking.

Pale lemon-gold robe with greenish reflections. Vigorous bubbling.

The nose opens directly with rich aromas of yellow fruits, then in just a couple of minutes, the chalky minerality penetrates the rich fruitiness to announce its presence. The palate is packed with dense layers of yellow fruits, finishing with bold austerity of minerality.

8 minutes after uncorking: a subtle touch of vanilla joins the bouquet, while the naturally sweet yellow fruits sweep the floor on the palate – such is the richness and natural sweetness of the fruit that we could hardly believe this to be an Extra Brut (with a very low dosage of 3.5g/l only) in blind tasting!

11 minutes: the nose is very organic!

17 minutes: the aromas become more luxurious, taking on buttery and oily charm. But the taste becomes even more austere with tough acidity dominant.

40 minutes: intense aromas of yellow fruits on the nose, with new depth of butterscotch on the palate.

44 minutes: an oaky spicy taste now cuts through the rich yellow fruitiness.

57 minutes: the taste layers are composed of pronounced woody spiciness, mineral astringency and yellow fruits.

1 hour and 8 minutes: a rich nose of vanilla oakiness.

This is a powerful and substantial Blanc de Blancs of mono-cru. At the moment, the nose is more seductive than the palate. Though the latter is rich in extracts with good potential for defined complexity, the taste today is actually a bit   burly and clumsy, needing precision, refinement and harmony, which could only be shaped by time... It would be very interesting to meet it again in 3 to 5 years’ time…

Tom Stevenson once commented that the emphasis of Jacquesson style is more complexity than elegance. I cannot agree more...