加载中…
怀古的情怀一.西方古装/ 2.古希腊服装
(2015-07-06 20:05:37)
标签：
杂谈 |
5th c BC to 1st C
AD公元前5~1世纪
by PAUL ANDERSEN
1.Materials/材料:
The only acceptable materials are linen and wool, although a percentage of natural fibre blends such as cotton is acceptable, as it doesn’t adversely affect the appearance or draping quality of the base linen.
2.主要是麻和羊毛，棉花使用的很少。
Fastenings/锁扣:
Garments not sewn together were fastened by long pins, fibulae, brooches or buttons of bone, wood.
不被线缝制在一起的部分，用各种式样和材料的别针连接住，如骨头和木头做的钮扣等。
1。CHITON贝壳式衣服
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/radical_romans/snorri/Image2.gif2.古希腊服装" TITLE="怀古的情怀一.西方古装/
1/Construct:A rectangular piece of cloth approximately 1.5 to 2.5 to 3 meters long & at least 1 meter wide on the drop, which is sewn into a tube.
长方形的料子，1.5米/2.5米/3米（L长）X1米（W宽），缝制成圆筒形状。
2/Length:Varied from mid-thigh to full length ankle versions.
总长度是从中等长到全长不等。
3/Draping: The person steps inside the tube.套入圆筒衣料。
4/Allowing sufficient room for the arms, the garment is fastened front to back over the shoulders.胳膊处需要是宽大的，在肩膀处想后扣扣。
Finally the garment is gathered at the waist with a belt/cord and the drapery arranged to drop evenly. 最后在腰部系上腰带，褶子必须间隔均匀。
5/Variations: A more complex version is made from 2 pieces of cloth fastened or buttoned at the shoulders & sewn from belt level to the bottom of the drop.
Multiple fastenings of either fibulae (pins) or buttons were common.
也可以用两块布料做成前后两块，或者做成上下两件。
使用别针或者钮扣是很通常的事。
2。EXOMIS背心式裙子
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/radical_romans/snorri/Image3.gif2.古希腊服装" TITLE="怀古的情怀一.西方古装/
1/Worn By:Males/男性（短的）
2/Construct:A rectangular piece of cloth approx. 2 meters long and least 1 meter wide.长方形料子，2米长x1米宽
3/Length:Varied from genitalia exposing to just above knee length.长不过膝盖。
4/Draping:The material is folded in half, the person steps inside the tube & draws the material under the right arm fastening it over the left shoulder.
将衣料折做两半，穿的人钻进圆筒，将部分衣料在右下腋卷起来，在左边肩膀上扣子或者打结什么的。
5/The garment is then belted & the material arranged to drop evenly.腰部扎皮带，将褶子分布均匀。
3。TUNIC短上衣
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/radical_romans/snorri/Image5.gif2.古希腊服装" TITLE="怀古的情怀一.西方古装/
1/Worn By: Males男性穿
2/Construct:Two rectangular pieces of material approximately 80-90cm wide x 1meter long, sewn together at the top to leave a neck opening.
两块衣料。宽80-90厘米x1米长，在脖子处缝制在一起。中间留个洞口。
The body is cut to a broad "T" and sewn up the sides to leave adequate openings for the arms.剪裁成T形，两旁不缝制在一起，为了手臂自由活动。
3/Length:From mid-thigh to ankle. Sleeves usually to crook of the arm.
长不过膝盖，短袖子是为了露出胳膊。
Long sleeves were known but not common as they were considered a sign of weakness & effeminacy.也有长袖的款，但是懦弱的象征。
4/Draping:The garment is gathered at the waist with a belt/cord and the drapery arranged to drop a little longer at the front than at the back.
前面长一些，后面短点，中间束腰。
4。HIMATION大长袍
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/radical_romans/snorri/Image7.gif2.古希腊服装" TITLE="怀古的情怀一.西方古装/
1/The Greek version of the Roman Toga.希腊仿罗马的托加袍(古罗马男子穿的宽松罩袍)，官服
Worn By : Males男人的服装
2/Construct: A long rectangular piece of material approximately 4 — 5 meters long and 1.2 — 1.5 meters wide.
一块很长的长方形衣料，大约4~5米长X1.29~1.50米宽
Eg: For a Man 5"8" = 4.2m long & 1.4m wide
比如一个5英尺8英寸的男子，需要的布料是=4.20米X1.40米
3/Length: Worn draped about the body from shoulder to ankle.
长度：一直从肩膀垂落下膝盖以下。
4/Draping: One end of the garment is thrown over the left shoulder to hang between calf and ankle.
穿法：将右边的衣料一端甩到左边肩膀并垂落在后面，在膝盖和脚裸之间挂着。
The remaining material is brought around under the right arm, across the back and thrown over the left shoulder.其余右边的一部分放在右胳膊下面。
The remaining material is draped along the length of the arm to hand down towards the left foot.左边部分任意垂挂在左手臂，一直垂向左脚。
5/Variations: The end of the garment can be drawn under the right arm & pinned over the left shoulder. The remaining material is thrown over the left arm, across the chest and over the right arm.
别的穿法：甩到左边的衣料可以在左边肩膀处用别针别住。
Lead weights could be sewn at the end points of the material to weigh them down and make the material sit straight.
铅块可以被缝制在下垂的衣料下端，为了衣料更垂直一些。
5。PEPLOS -
DORIC多利安式的女长外衣
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/radical_romans/snorri/Image8.gif2.古希腊服装" TITLE="怀古的情怀一.西方古装/
1/Worn By: Females. 女士用。
2/Construct: A rectangular piece of cloth approx. 2 meters long and least 3 meters wide.长方形的衣料，2m(L) x 3m(W)
3/Length: Folded over at the top and dropping full length to the ankle.
从脖子上下垂，一直到脚裸。
Draping: The material is laid out flat and approximately 30 — 40cm is folded over.The material is then folded in half with the initial fold facing outwards.The tube is then raised and the person enters the tube.
肩膀处多余的部分也往下垂挂，形成第二层上衣，就是在上衣处中间为脖子挖一个洞。
Allowing sufficient room for the arms, the garment is pinned front to back over the shoulders.肩膀处钉个钮扣。
Finally the garment is gathered at the waist with a belt/cord and the drapery arranged to drop evenly.腰部扎一根皮带。
4/Variations: A more complex version is made from 2 pieces of cloth pinned at the shoulders & sewn from the bottom of the drop to the belt level.
也有做成上下分开的两层衣裙的。
6。PEPLOS -
IONIC爱尔尼亚式的女长外衣
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/radical_romans/snorri/Image10.gif2.古希腊服装" TITLE="怀古的情怀一.西方古装/
1/Worn By: Females.女式服装
2/Construct: A rectangular piece of cloth approximately 2 meters long and least 4 meters wide.长方形衣料2米 X 4米
Length: Full length to ankle.长及脚裸
3/Draping: The material is laid out flat & approx. 50—60cm is folded over.
留出50-60厘米向外折叠起来。
The tube is then raised and the person enters the tube.穿时人站在中间。
Allowing sufficient room for the arms, the garment is pinned front to back over the shoulders.在前面用别针别起来。
Finally the garment is gathered at the waist with a belt/cord and the drapery arranged to drop evenly.腰部用腰带扎住。
4/Variations: A more complex version is made from 2 pieces of cloth pinned at the shoulders & sewn from the bottom of the drop to the belt level.
也可以做成上下两截的衣服裙子。
A long cord may be passed from the belt crossed
between the breasts, passed under the shoulder fastenings, crossed
over the back and fastened to the belt at the back to give a more
fitted appearance.也可以将两条带子在胸部中间交叉，越过肩膀，在腰带上扣住。
7。CLOAKS & WRAPS外套/外罩
1/Rectangular Cloaks often referred to as Thessalian Cloaks appear to have been common.一般的外袍称作-Thessalian忒萨莲外套，很普遍。
2/These varied greatly not so much in length, generally about 2.5 meters long, but in width. Some were only a meter wide whilst others appear to have been 1.5 meters in width.一般2.50米长，宽度不一1.00~1.50米。
3/Thessalian Cloaks often had lead or bronze weights at the corners.
4/Circular cloaks were known, both long and short, but the most common type was called a Chlamys or short hunting cloak.
大小不同的圆形外套也有，叫做
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/radical_romans/snorri/Image12.gif2.古希腊服装" TITLE="怀古的情怀一.西方古装/
--Short Thessalian Cloak
--Long Thessalian Cloak Chlamys长式的
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/radical_romans/snorri/Image14.gif2.古希腊服装" TITLE="怀古的情怀一.西方古装/
A form of poncho, either square cut or rounded seems to have enjoyed popularity in the 7th — 5th centuries BC, particularly amongst the Etruscans.
是一种类似墨西哥蓬套披肩的，流行于公元前7-5世纪。
--Women wore a type of himation, a variety of rectangular wraps which were draped over forearms or shoulders (see wrap Peplos - Doric), and the mantle.
妇女穿的外套，一种长方体披肩。
8。OTHER CLOTHING其他服装
1/Whilst footwear was known in quite a variety of shapes ranging from thongs, full and toeless sandals, to ankle & calf boots, most people went barefoot inside & out most of the time.
鞋子于许多式样，有拖鞋类，凉鞋类，到脚跟和小腿长的靴子，许多人都不穿鞋子。
2/Hats were made from straw, felt and leather, in styles identical to many broad brimmed modern sun hats.
帽子是草做的，
喜欢
0
赠金笔