3月1日 周日 米兰 MIU姨在09-10FW女装的设计中继续之前男装的黑暗气息,将吸血鬼式和女权主义进行到底.MODEL们以蓬松而充斥着暴力感的17世纪欧洲宫廷发型出场,毛尼大衣令人回味起07FW的设计来,本季的大衣做得性感有力,配上类似裤装的高筒皮靴透露出中性和强硬;V领开胸的深色皮草背心,短式皮衣甲克以及粗犷的男式皮带把性感,野性和邪恶相融合,形成新的暴力美感;外套上的印花刺绣又让人联想起去年那完美的镂空裙来;最最值得强调的是最后出场的晚装部分,未来感十足的宽皮质镶柳钉流苏褶连衣裙,给人感觉像是沙场上的铠甲,仿佛"白女巫"复活,又仿佛是<黑夜传说>中的女吸血鬼战士(笑),但又有精干柔和,完美的一季!崇拜也,倒地也!

    新的暴力美学固然已经诞生,邪恶,暴力,冷酷无情,苍白,强权,黑暗,性感,颓废,充满力量都是它的呈现.MIU姨继续她的女权道路,继续延续着那千变万化的PRADA守则.STYLE对MIUCCIA的评价是说她不仅仅一个设计师还是是一位思想家.我,举双手赞成!

图文BY:MOREONE

  One thing's for certain: Miuccia Prada is not going to the eighties disco for Fall. Instead, her collection seemed to be a call for austerity measures, if that's what you can read into boiled wool forties-style coats and suits, clothes that might have been appropriated from domestic upholstery fabric, and (possibly for women going back to the land for survival) kinky fishing waders. It was a bizarre take on utility even Prada found hard to explain. "I didn't want to do anything about the city," she said, "more something about sport and the outdoors in general—freedom and nature. But in the end, I realized I liked coats and suits. It was serious, in a way. It was about a need for feminine empowerment." Prada's women, with their violently frizzed-up hair, certainly had a disconcerting look about them as they advanced, with red-rimmed glitter-ringed eyes catching the light with a nearly malevolent glint. What they were wearing was constructed from substantial tweed and stiff leather, slit to reveal sexually incendiary flashes of naked leg and red knit underwear.
  As is entirely normal in the Miuccia Prada universe, any easy reading of narrative or reference was thrown off at every turn. Some of the strangeness was in the search for new volumes, swinging heavily from the shoulder in triangular, sometimes fur-laden shapes, or pinched into peplums by narrow mannish leather belts. The footwear—wide-topped leather boots or velvet heels with Mohawk patent fringing at the heel—only added to the oddness of it all. In the end, however, it was not so disorientating and experimental that Prada codes weren't also fully exercised. The tweedy tailoring, fur, paillette embroidery, and of course, the bags (now in plain businesslike leather, or for evening, an update of last winter's novelty sequin) have been staples for years. Even though Miuccia Prada might be considered one of fashion's out-there thinkers, this is still clearly a time to keep the brand fires burning.