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《V Man》呈现了十七个男装品牌设计师与他们2009春夏男装齐现身的专题，图片拍摄自时装周的后台，非常的珍贵。上图：GIORGIO ARMANI 的灵感来自现代印度的斑斓色彩 —— “My collection was inspired by modern India and its vibrant colors. It features a delicate color palette with brighter oriental tones, interpreted in my signature style.”

 

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VERSACE 的肌肉型男被休闲的宽松款式取代 —— “Next season, it’s all about putting on your best to show the world that you are doing just fine—formal, but with an informal attitude. Men should interpret formality with an open mind, without boxing themselves in to the dictionary definition.” –Donatella Versace

 

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CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION  誓将极简捍卫到底 —— “This collection can easily be summed up as graphic, bold, modern, and very American.” –Italo Zucchelli

 

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GIVENCHY BY RICCARDO TISCI 拉丁贵族和哥特式的浪漫，注定这个品牌这一季的不平凡—— “My man has the soul of a bad boy, just like my woman. He’s Latin-aristocratic and gothic-romantic, but wild. He is a man who is so confident with his masculinity that he can comfortably play with his femininity.” –Riccardo Tisci

 

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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO 刚刚过完80周年的品牌，持续的变化风格 —— “The inspiration for my Spring collection was opulent, sophisticated India: where neutral hues explode in an infinite variety of tones and shades, and color is unexpected, like saris in the desert. The imperceptible detailing is a key and luxurious standout: embroidery, bewitching gold-wire motifs and exquisite ruffles on silk shirt fronts.” –Massimiliano Giornetti

 

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LANVIN 优雅的极致代表，上一季的风云品牌，混入阴柔的设计元素，成为新时代男装品位 ——“This collection is about emotional clothes, elastic tailoring, layering, and movement.”–Lucas Ossendrijver

 

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HUGO 来自德国包豪斯的简单线条，塑造出男装优雅现代的廓型 —— “I took inspiration from the modern-classic looks of the German Bauhaus school—clean lines, simple shapes, and innovative detailsand materials.” –Bruno Pieters

 

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KRIS VAN ASSCHE “穿着西装去海滩” —— “The Spring/Summer 2009 collection revolves around the idea of wearing a suit to the beach; I imagined how surfers would wear a suit. I continue to play with the idea of using classic menswear elements and making them relevant and wearable for today’s sportswear generation.” –Kris Van Assche

 

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BOTTEGA VENETA —— 整体的灵感应来自40年代末50年代初，给奢华增添了一些智慧 “The collection is designed with an individual in mind. We used a different model for each look to underline this point, and to inspire a unique approach to dressing.” –Tomas Maier

 

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PAUL & JOE 一个四处旅行的水手，世界各地的衣服填满衣柜 —— “The collection is about a modern sailor who leaves Britanny and lands in Australia. During this long trip over the seas, he completes his wardrobe by combining the various influences of each place he visits.” –Sophie Albou

 

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ALEXANDER McQUEEN —— 持续的革新让设计师这一季的设计充满魅力 “I wanted to refashion the traditional male silhouette by combining tailoring and color-blocking to produce a modern, sleek aes-thetic. Metallics, jacquards, and toning create an optical illusion on the runway, fusing contrasts and opposites to create a dynamic and fresh masculine shape.” –Alexander McQueen

 

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DSQUARED 永远能抓住流行的趋势，黑人的主题绝对得分 —— “We went back to the roots of hip-hop and the fabulous ’70s. The models are dressed in true b-boy style: nylon shorts, track pants, and hip-hop bling layered over polos and tank tops. It’s casual and classic, combined with three-piece suits and tuxedo jackets enriched with flashy metal chains.” –Dean and Dan Caten

 

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GUCCI 继续花花公子的形象—— “While designing the Spring 2009 men’s collection, the band MGMT’s music and irreverent style provided a synergy for the tropical, freestyle approach to dressing that I wanted.” –Frida Giannini

 

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MISSONI 几何图案与针织，永远不变的品牌标识—— “This Spring collection evokes the beautiful creatures of Saint Tropez and the Mediterranean coast, and images of Alain Delon from La Piscine. While fresh with hints of humor and irony, the collection still has handmade and artisanal elements, which make it very precious to me.” –Angela Missoni

 

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PAUL SMITH 英国风的旗帜，板球、摇滚、新廓型 —— “It’s all about English cricket, rock, Mick Jagger, and a new silhouette: narrow shoulders, soft volume, and front-pleated trousers pulled in at the waist.” –Paul Smith

 

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BELSTAFF 不得不对这个品牌越来越多的投以关注，无论色彩、廓型还是面料都充满惊喜—— “The Belstaff Spring/Summer 2009 collection celebrates the modern-day global traveler. It’s elegant, in the way a person of great culture is elegant, combining traditionalstyles with innovative fabrics, often with a cosmopolitan touch.” –Michelle Malenotti

 

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FENDI —— 搞不清设计师在想什么？融合？还是杂乱？“The collection is about generic folk, coming from elsewhere, navigating all cultures.” –Silvia Fendi

 

图片：《V Man》

摄影师：JD Ferguson

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