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calvinkleinss2011纽约時裝周現場報道时尚 |
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mnB0E7FCAW5rq4Oob3-pAZxgzyEuOp3sxsjvCYdNP4se1Iy0SpTcd7Jr1amYcXbskUTv5LkT0U_tfT4ouUVPW_Zhg-DSlP614JmGtAOZmyep1R4nbpPiKS8XDh_vc5_gYvgIlE7DaUyNpAJMGuvlcug/CK%20ss2011%20resized.001.jpg?psidKlein
Calvin Klein Collection 2011年春夏女裝的發佈會,看似平淡,卻波瀾暗湧。
Francisco Costa無愧於運用廓形和幾何線條的大師,尤其當春夏的面料多為薄質輕盈的水洗絲,軟棉jersey和縐紗。
他賦予這些面料建築般的凝重質感,同時行走間卻拂風,十分sensual。
在極簡主義有限的詞彙里,每一季他總能既有傳承,又嘗試不同織物,運用新的比例,來重新定義詮釋,十分不易。
在看似簡單的廓形背後,是精準的剪裁,bias cut斜裁的運用使得線條更為纖長。
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1msZdi74_g9us_P-RBWs5HK96Rx5n6dV0IBp12Bx8ae-r6hCf-5u6ZfkEeCmM1NwhHJUFeZt-FthJaZbS5wdz0WV9lyFjwfgfRTo1qC_xTE0IOL2pvxSWwea2ZKtx1R63pNJfGLCutveYuQs88L0PROA/look1%20front%20and%20back.001.jpg?psidKlein
這襲開場的halter dress,剪裁精準,到腰部以下十分卷舒,側邊的開衩像花苞一樣微微張開。
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mfXDjaRQK9be5NlT3EuBvLukFJpDjb8WxvT4srXmst_zYrOYdG8TbCi4nxrEmhJ20oFO6kJ8mXjJksPLVq8rqWiUiUDLXbDiLlcYaBD7yytb07RqKmkmO-p3zSivVFsy0cFNb3m-8sJ3NSyqsc-4CUA/CK%20ss2011%20resized.002.jpg?psidKlein
這款上衣,背後是都市感的racerback。
長裙腰部斜搭扣的設計有褲裝的利落帥氣,雙層縐紗的運用增加懸垂感和下擺的戲劇感。
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1m89tvCLD3DLo5-6tZGx_GF_M8fgW_EOL2Bs_gicgsy187K5qsp18JkpQsG6q4k6WXypsAIbgqFcx0vXKywiv-X4K4Aiai8v-odF5L6Gzdk1GqDe8ZPC98mQjLpDVNCwL2ZvjKbbYI-M63WvK1dprTfg/CK%20ss2011%20resized.023.jpg?psidKlein
絲質Racerback連身裙清涼自在,異常輕盈。
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mZSZLU9uFPZfCFzfzDFChCYSy4hU09owpThJMfapPDGC5QQGFWfhOEY_xWaK45Tp09DzhzteyanB_3uOnEOGglGxZW4WRWlcM0x48VizmrfKR5fdEA0lwztRfYnZp7QpcHSZQaSWtSP1fWIEreTQ-OA/CK%20ss2011%20resized.003.jpg?psidKlein
深V領的連身裙是柔軟的jersey和絲質混合,胸部的兩個口袋是定睛之筆。
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mbQAER3kDY-VOrEBpwuSW8HvnrSbLcVv_ngzm_FTCY3eCx2gRlZ6Gkzg5AO7Y9O8-_xFJweqArYACDnef_K5XbKAiOfNM6fyUxtt3uUsYFhjAAA4buMK1wgufNG9YKx1oVotUIriuvc7xIOsdbWJIPQ/CK%20ss2011%20resized.022.jpg?psidKlein
與上面一襲裙子呼應的雙層縐紗連身裙-請注意腰部的細節
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mHa1rLAdeKC2-6R31eFe5gBG2UcxuG0jgj5oWEutstYG6hIXH31TO-b6OBbcakIWl4fW0pXBy5cjvNOV3HTNuG65s4BEogCGKIHy1Q8Z7Ga5fBvKDSJsTDmVqj75CBnQ7oMj-Y6kyYM6LplvMfdm81g/CK%20ss2011%20resized.006.jpg?psidKlein
無袖豎褶連身裙-很愛這溫柔沈著的香檳色
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mngwBStC_jdQwCENikKA1nddZxtlDCIzgU2u_SrneP3by0Ed7sfGrQMfncDosjJFWSwwopNM7B2-bSqPkYvE5VioyUQjKD0-LRhEFH9vs-fLNPeeNSdjsduE4MvFwFJokbEUiEgbjn02NkQ2bCdvFnw/CK%20ss2011%20resized.007.jpg?psidKlein
這一襲貝殼白的,讓我想起Sofia Coppola
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1myf2ybY7ZdQ77RguD67NS0T3StR6n333n-fiHPwaMf9d4j0bQcPxh9VuK1i-vr__5kp_RzYi6Hl4PVNY74opb5dlzBK1esDc8rD_fYBlZcq0pelDSQ3nhe1QVGOuPkBqWtNqpjFc1XJ9BWlNyR-Vl2A/CK%20ss2011%20resized.019.jpg?psidKlein
這一款,微微變化,兩側的豎褶漸漸下收為倒三角形。模特Nimue的臉有幾分似Emma Watson.
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mv54qvUEzjKja71prKV6oVvg4g0OMb4GOBt3echqKbvAt679EKwFkuQgMiZ7FNDY_5z_zAzV_Y7vHmY9MVoFnGNdEYU3jciCgu5Nd8LYSxKswX3ikg03wtsyqCL0ve6fTT_cRqgFTU-WLcf-eczHI7Q/CK%20ss2011%20resized.020.jpg?psidKlein
黑色變奏
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mTSoj1MbD4uhWsO0Sgas5C7vEzZG73kEbLYu-yOEAYKTrbWVO9Hg8pzrAdyDpl28D83b0sBxhbFWioRotelHdfQs0GvHaxW5inkR28NJOG1UT42E3N8Qkn0Hu3gXvdn3_KLlY_Es9yhOWCVw_c_F0-A/CK%20ss2011%20resized.018.jpg?psidKlein
瀝青色
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mGwTQln4UK6hzMldlkz865wP3CfzyrQMfjcY0ACGR7pDJDZo2ZKB9JtCzAvkn_hBAKx32gBTgx8TBCczpNqq3hptQGbSsCQw0q1l9QeMvv-425-5nHCwqgl0xNJd12owhW4LwTYi5ejalPD_VAYiZXA/CK%20ss2011%20resized.021.jpg?psidKlein
這款silk twill的軋紋無袖裙,racerback,前襟的斜panel添了幾分硬淨,到了裙襬那裡卻是暗香浮動。
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1maNeSstAatweZ0hao_av8EumtcwcBk0Rl9lVgB94PSVKZEE7NzXdrmm2QYiQLDj9as0VNDuQYrc9xwjktDtowmbeKgC-zJqR-HQivmkK4cj1-B-766Rhoz7OVz5paTsHt7qZIjhk47PuwaybM2mDbOw/CK%20ss2011%20resized.010.jpg?psidKlein
照片不太清楚,其實是雙排暗扣,左邊腰下有個flap pocket,長度在膝上,上班穿簡直理想不過。
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1msK8qsoMpYsDAL-TNJOMWm0DA2NGtxEiEMUq_8sD2sXVH1e5oLPhmR-DkUKMtbr5ByE5fYvyOIJVapGyT-F3JcXvEayodTaDkGEgOUD57INAUf9GMm4QisxTynOMrpRFtqbOB93FfvS0UyfjxFVViuQ/CK%20ss2011%20resized.009.jpg?psidKlein
擔任代言女郎以來的Lara Stone首次為Calvin Klein走秀
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1m790ptNMvksXpMrwPwY41GKGz7RnKBy8ylael4Mfh1cDaBWiLT5i1QNPFOWQ4eaP2moqnOb9KxJV-bxlf7X_75hfLXMgGJyopZevpy_naaPeNl67jG2fy6QVtFIF5Cu2FNuxkhuhkHILMQSq7gpGSfA/CK%20ss2011%20resized.008.jpg?psidKlein
Henne G 這一身,已經在我的wish list上面
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mPZmn0OdflC56cR7zaEFN5m94CtXl4PCt9IXziIPSVw3gHG0qBQxqL_UDxsmdKTTD3w8IrxDL5B3Je71K1uFr-92coIOyTmL4RquOx0sFuv5RVrcXjaCy189wU3o0DFl8GCxs1AJ7dCfpSDUPoS4Gjw/CK%20ss2011%20resized.011.jpg?psidKlein
這款彷彿從騎馬裝得來靈感
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mOPEYdjJ0um1SQ3PpKmcXs2ncXXuVcOWPcBoGtJ2NnzumRAFaoLZLzoOOvDdmrdDV3pCwvspX9lQTsbsQF3RD5SsyRZxgcronP2tItBHdEZyd5N8OH3NRIsmg27Cc1-5SiEuNTF1dpK0W6sAuKh4Utw/CK%20ss2011%20resized.012.jpg?psidKlein
這樣寬舒的外套,搭配鉛筆九分褲,重心十分微妙
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mzNY3QhKxKX7WVA3TvA3ib0fjh4mFNguNcN9HZYXpc6bKpAWOMJvylY22CIpdE7I5RoQTcHDl05uKj-nEVfXLadhEP-ubbjFabQUto7E_FJzwCyiMvUdmFia-UtFh73CSj39mcjHjtCL1g6LMbPB_Gg/CK%20ss2011%20resized.013.jpg?psidKlein
這條裙子讓我想起護士裙,有些過於clinical了
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mZSZLU9uFPZeF8jqw1H-gbkrue1oinEhHN2VoXzdDuEZHrde_TW9jGrEGJooJrg7S4gRvJH268GDdCI9hixWAwLpRsqMkVKbFgrxvUtFeUFMvtzot2cQt6KvJbOcecf6Ojy184iw9Vd6a9RRWsRDpNQ/CK%20ss2011%20resized.004.jpg?psidKlein
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mKP9IKZA3jsxha2KsVd6ktj80Lkh59TOT0EKw_hd7ng3bxYfpfJ3_MzpHLS-9te2aGdZGSQyfNyyK3P4JQn9FAW--74E_EF0k9T_-fYLEC3WRi1chrIeaTGu1h7C34uoxXTm8ab-goxhHc-L3A4wQbg/CK%20ss2011%20resized.024.jpg?psidKlein
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1m3VMDj-z9IZzEB0HvFkeiAB8N3DfuksZkbQu-GN8sW7l8kpFq1wpKRgIEir1ZZE1oYpDMfvAzeW9sNjUepOF4R8xFd92WhZI21JiMer-vC4zpxuhScJRa3f5Z3OJFooMle6EbVGR2mASyubqeyjIftg/CK%20ss2011%20resized.017.jpg?psidKlein
一系列低V領外套,裡面是透明的薄棉紗shirt
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mMZJZpAaOI_giPTeAwzlsJjSM1tpG7m8AENpA869EGLk76WBAwaTKEXMbnepbjJnJynZzHSbM94uxCG3_lVwh-N9hN_Qdysz28VhW3E5xSU2sRjZym66c4a97-nqAlj-MA9I8pSP_JmKTHUi9pdfGGA/CK%20ss2011%20resized.014.jpg?psidKlein
終於看到顏色-這珊瑚紅!
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mZlSk9gC69d3ajOwYCCwznnaUx_yHaqwSUnAQXINmLAKlXvwKMAn9i7jnK9szsZD2YhbzWvfQL-4KbkaMSw_mQhd30u0P7FWtnTPaOZUchLzbYMnrI7vQ2Xmj33_28hrdGZ95lL355qJC9QNbkwXChw/CK%20ss2011%20resized.015.jpg?psidKlein
靛藍
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mlCc9mxf0tUZALeVge9aGWVrXxSHP3tjhqVfXWSauiaRXKJjwrWptJA16_129d5FsUk3e1elOMQrLoaWkjvMtmoBlZ6aT-lg0M9dMasx2jdxyMuqRGFq03E-OjWF_OrcMAzFt7nkirAUx6pg6HDrujg/CK%20ss2011%20resized.016.jpg?psidKlein
背部細節-鞋子也是曼妙。
https://cgqwlg.bay.livefilestore.com/y1mIDWHv10ItPd3EtzqLypLkE7SOTx2jGynKW1QhceMts2P5gaWq6iMfrd69us8poQr9H5IhiPyXvR4vQQlZ5GYvja9anpuRNu1svUVppQzKcCx17OwlRnOmYrIe8zN-o3Av7gVoYXJw2-g2AXuO8-S3Q/CK%20ss2011%20resized.026.jpg?psidKlein
Bravo, Francisco Costa!
All photos by A. Szulc

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