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生活几何——米兰时装周 2008春夏男装

(2007-07-11 19:32:13)
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说到夏天,除了感觉炙人的高温以外,当然就令人想到清凉的大海,在炎炎夏日里能够穿的有凉爽感,也首推有降温效果又不至于太沉重的蓝色系,本季的Missoni开场的几套Twinset就以海军蓝、水蓝、天蓝、海蓝绿等深浅不同的几种蓝色为主,结合水波纹、圆点型的针织线条,展现了对夏日海洋缤纷的想像和清爽感的追求,模特儿伏贴向后梳拢的发型也像刚自海洋或泳池的怀抱中归来一般。

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蓝色系几何针织套头毛衣配上黄色的衬衫,配色和构图都颇有向David Hockney的著名画作”Day Pool with three blues”致敬的意图,延续这位对水的表情特别著迷的艺术家的风格,本季Luca Missoni在针织图型的设计上,出现了大量模拟水面的创作,诸如波纹、几何图型、晕染渐层等等;当然也有标示品牌的精神图腾──山型锯齿条纹络,把David Hockney的质朴风格演译的更为细腻。

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如果不喜欢一成不变的蓝色,也还有许多呈现夏日欢快气氛的其他色系:阳光黄、日落粉红添加变化,搭配软呢绅士帽或者钓客背心,栖身都市丛林中的男人其实是随时准备破浪而出、享受夏日休闲的贵族。

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除了细腻的复古感外,Missoni也利用充满海洋风情的配件,为本季加上了活泼的表情:海螺坠饰项炼、海星别针、贝壳及椰壳制的串珠项炼、这俏皮的风格甚至爬上衣服布料,化身成为充满童趣的章鱼、鲸鱼图案,搭上缎面拼接的低筒运动鞋,优雅的男人也能展现赤子之心。

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