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雨后什刹海 Shichahai, an Oasis in the City

(2008-07-09 01:58:34)
标签:

爱在中国行

什刹海

shichahai

荷花市场

后海

旅游

分类: 行摄中国 China View

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

   什刹海历史文化旅游风景区(简称什刹海景区)是北京城区最具魅力的景区,南至平安大街,北起北二环,东至地安门外大街,西至新街口北大街,占地面积323公顷。其中水域面积33.6公顷,绿地面积11.5公顷。1992年北京市政府将其定为历史文化风景区。在2000年批准的北京25片历史文化保护区中,什刹海地区的面积是最大的。
 雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City
  什刹海景区风光秀丽,被誉为北方的水乡,是古都之源、文化之源,是民俗休闲、感受历史、享受时尚的胜地。元朝曾依托这一片水域在东岸确定了都城建设的中轴线,什刹海始成为元、明、清三代城市规划和水系的核心。清代李静山曾作诗云:“柳塘莲蒲路迢迢,小憩浑然溽暑消。十里藕花香不断,晚风吹过步粮桥”。著名的《帝京景物略》中以“西湖春,秦淮夏,洞庭秋”来赞美什刹海的神韵。历经数百年的发展,什刹海积淀了上至皇亲国戚、士大夫下至普通百姓的深厚的各阶层文化。这里的胡同和四合院组成了老北京的风俗文化,组成了老北京的历史,沿着什刹海迤逦的河沿四周,形成了不规则但密如网织的网状胡同,这些胡同依势而建,自然天成。今天,这里仍旧保存着十分难得的自然景观和人文胜迹交相辉映的历史风貌,宋庆龄故居、郭沫若故居、恭王府花园、广化寺、火神庙、钟鼓楼、德胜门箭楼、汇通祠、会贤堂和银锭桥等古迹宛如一颗颗明珠,将什刹海点辍地秀美灿烂。

                  雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

  什刹海自然风景资源重点在于水。北京城内历史上形成的六海水系,南有南海、中海(合称中南海)、北海,北有前海、后海和西海。什刹海在元朝时被通称为积水潭(亦称为海子)元代建大都城以前,这里,原是高梁河古河道上的一串天然湖泊。积水潭水深面阔,汪洋如海,南来北往的粮船、商船,均聚集停泊于此故有“舳舻蔽天”之说.明朝什刹海前海,后海及西海被圈在皇城之外,反而成了百姓乐于会集的地方.这里自然风光明媚,掠过辽阔的湖面遥见西方峰峦,山水相映,如置身画中。

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City
   明代,积水潭结束了漕运码头的历史,旖旎的风光吸引了众多的达官贵人、文人雅士在此建府邸、造庭院,出家人在此修寺庙、建宫观.什刹海的名称使是出自寺庙:“……湖滨梵宇林立,而十刹海作为湖泊名称,却已屡见记载。或谐间写作什刹海,又口碑相传又已想沿成习……(侯仁之)”。解放后,宋庆龄、郭沫若、梅兰芳等众多名人亦曾居住在什刹海畔,为她又增添无数佳话。王府园林、木楼石桥、庙宇堂馆、名人故居无不显示着什刹海地区丰厚的历史文化积淀
● 宋庆龄故居,原是清醇亲王载沣的府邸花园。
● 宋庆龄故居内长廊,杨柳轻飚、碧水回环、楼堂掩映,充满了诗情画意。
● 梅兰芳故居是一座典型的北京二进四合院,其前身是庆王府的一部分。
● 郭沫若故居原为清代和申府花园和恭亲王府草料场与马厩。

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City
        始建于清光绪初年(1875年)间的〖会贤堂〗,原是礼部待郎斌儒的私邸,王公大臣、文人墨客曾在此吟诗做画,鲁迅、胡适等都曾聚会在此讨论新文化运动,闲人墨客,欲比风骚。可以说〖会贤堂〗的存在和发展与中国近代政治史、文化史紧密相连。

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

        几经历史的风雨和洗礼之后,现今的会贤堂以奢华酒吧的迷人面貌出现在什刹海,中国古典建筑和现代装饰艺术的结合。

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

      西海又称积水潭,前海又称什刹海,北部三海一般也统称什刹海。依托六海水系,湖岸的垂柳、水中的荷花等构成什刹海特有的自然景观。“燕京小八景”之一的“银锭观山”在景区中具有典型意义。开阔的水面与城市景观和人民生活非常自然和谐地融为一体,是古都城区唯一具有开阔水面的开放型景区。在百余名专家参与,中国国家地理杂志社主办的“2005年中国最美的地方”活动评选中,什刹海被评为中国最美的五大城区之一,被誉为“紧邻中南海的时尚”。

                  雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

     什刹海34公顷的水面十分自然地融入城市街区之中,依托水体,还有湖岸的垂柳、水中的荷花等也成为什刹海频具特色自然景观。号称“燕京小八景”之一的“银锭观山”在景区中具有典型意义。什刹海夏日波平如镜,垂柳依依,荷花盛开,冬季则是天然溜冰场。两岸是保存完好的王府花园、纵横交错的市井民居,与钟楼、鼓楼遥相呼应。当你踏上长堤,波光溶溶的碧水,婉约披拂的垂柳,环回宛曲的栏杆,花木葱茂的中央小岛,尽收眼底。海中有小艇可划,岸旁有露椅可坐,游泳池中红绿相间,别有情趣。
雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City   
      在美丽的什刹海景区内,您可以乘坐三轮车游览老北京的胡同、古迹;可以乘坐橹船观赏迷人的三海风光;可以骑上双人自行车细细品咄这里的文化。

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

   Shichahai is a majestic lake situated in downtown Beijing. For centuries it has provided local residents with a sanctuary from the hustle and bustle of the day. More recently, the lake has benefited from improvements to its environment which has worked to enhance its natural charms. Today, it is a true oasis amidst the sea of activity taking place in the surrounding metropolis and provides a tranquil escape to stressed workers seeking a sense of space and well-being. So today we hit the road with Yunfeng for a much-needed relaxing walk around this ancient yet peaceful lake district --- Shichahai!

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

  When you walk around Shichahai, a sense of its history inevitably hits you. Composed of three man-made lakes, Qianhai ("Front Sea" Lake), Houhai ("Rear Sea" Lake) and the lesser-known Xihai ("West Sea" Lake) once formed part of a system of waterways that fed into the Imperial Capital. For centuries wooden boats carrying produce from the south would make the journey up the Grand Canal and enter the city via these waterways. Those days are long gone. After a period of decline, the lakes, are now a prime recreational destination. With overhanging willows lining its banks and cafébars tucked away in its many secluded corners, it is also a delightful area to relax over a drink while watching life on and off the water.

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

  At the south end of Qianhai Lake and opposite the North Gate of neighboring Beihai Park's North Gate is a recently renovated square where flowers in full bloom serve as the perfect background to stunning rock sculptures. The square is popular with locals who come here to exercise, fly kites, play cards or even have their hair cut. Curios are also on sale while pedicab drivers chat as they wait for passengers wanting to be carried around the neighboring hutongs. This is almost a scene out of a movie set in "Old Beijing".

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

  As the paved track winds around the eastern side of the lake it passes a dock lined with motorized pleasure boats. On the other side, the floating Romance Bar provides dinner on the lake to the accompaniment of traditional string instruments. Hidden behind some trees to the right are several fine new restaurants while offshore a small island with its round pavilion has been transformed into a secluded bar.

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

  Looking down across Qianhai our eyes are drawn to the magnificent Drum (Gulou) and Bell (Zhonglou) Towers which functioned as important timepieces of the Imperial Capital from as early as the 15th century. Just below the two towers, the far shore is lined with traditional grey-tiled low buildings-former homes of officials whose daily lives revolved around the bell chimes.

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

  As we walk farther ahead we arrive at the elegant Wanning Bridge. Constructed from marble only two years ago, it stands above a canal which once flowed to the south of the Old City. Nearby, the much older Houmen stone Bridge, on which carved creatures 'guard' the waters, carries Dianmen Xi Dajie across the canal where it then forms the western part of an east-west axis line running through the Old City. Adjacent, we stumble upon a temple being restored to its former glory after of being hidden behind unplanned buildings.

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

  Soon the path turns northwest and after passing another boat dock it goes down a narrow road. Several more small restaurants crowd the street next to bars including the popular No Name. Despite its name, the bar is far from being unknown as urbanites regularly gather there for its charming, antique shop like interior and the picturesque lake views it provides. Just behind is the very sophisticated Nuage Vietnamese restaurant while other new watering holes also stand nearby. Further down the lane are the long-established Kaorouji, which is famous for its duck, and several neighboring Muslim restaurants.

                       雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

  As we leave Qianhai and reach Houhai, we spot the intricately decorated Silver Ingot Bridge which crosses a canal leading from the lake. Once an area full of commercial activity, today it quietly overlooks the pleasure boats passing underneath. Clear weather offers superb views from here to the distant Fragrant Hills. It seems that much of the commercial activity has moved to the neighboring shores. Although once a quiet location frequented by artists, it is now lined with yet more bars and restaurants. But it seems some vestiges of Old Beijing eateries have survived this modernization as small dumpling and noodle parlors serve pedicab drivers crowded in the nearby square.

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

  Heading eastwards we arrive at the Lane of the Long Stem Pipe Makers, a street whose earlier canal-related commercial function has also, you guessed it, given way to more cafe bars.

雨后什刹海 <wbr>Shichahai, <wbr>an <wbr>Oasis <wbr>in <wbr>the <wbr>City

  Opposite the lane, is Ya Er Hutong which heads northwest. This narrow alley free from the bustle around the bridge offers a step back in time. Mostly lined with residential buildings, there are some fascinating structures including an elaborate two-storey white building featuring contrasting timber balconies.

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