雨后什刹海 Shichahai, an Oasis in the City
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爱在中国行什刹海shichahai荷花市场后海旅游 |
分类: 行摄中国 China View |

什刹海景区风光秀丽,被誉为北方的水乡,是古都之源、文化之源,是民俗休闲、感受历史、享受时尚的胜地。元朝曾依托这一片水域在东岸确定了都城建设的中轴线,什刹海始成为元、明、清三代城市规划和水系的核心。清代李静山曾作诗云:“柳塘莲蒲路迢迢,小憩浑然溽暑消。十里藕花香不断,晚风吹过步粮桥”。著名的《帝京景物略》中以“西湖春,秦淮夏,洞庭秋”来赞美什刹海的神韵。历经数百年的发展,什刹海积淀了上至皇亲国戚、士大夫下至普通百姓的深厚的各阶层文化。这里的胡同和四合院组成了老北京的风俗文化,组成了老北京的历史,沿着什刹海迤逦的河沿四周,形成了不规则但密如网织的网状胡同,这些胡同依势而建,自然天成。今天,这里仍旧保存着十分难得的自然景观和人文胜迹交相辉映的历史风貌,宋庆龄故居、郭沫若故居、恭王府花园、广化寺、火神庙、钟鼓楼、德胜门箭楼、汇通祠、会贤堂和银锭桥等古迹宛如一颗颗明珠,将什刹海点辍地秀美灿烂。
什刹海自然风景资源重点在于水。北京城内历史上形成的六海水系,南有南海、中海(合称中南海)、北海,北有前海、后海和西海。什刹海在元朝时被通称为积水潭(亦称为海子)元代建大都城以前,这里,原是高梁河古河道上的一串天然湖泊。积水潭水深面阔,汪洋如海,南来北往的粮船、商船,均聚集停泊于此故有“舳舻蔽天”之说.明朝什刹海前海,后海及西海被圈在皇城之外,反而成了百姓乐于会集的地方.这里自然风光明媚,掠过辽阔的湖面遥见西方峰峦,山水相映,如置身画中。

明代,积水潭结束了漕运码头的历史,旖旎的风光吸引了众多的达官贵人、文人雅士在此建府邸、造庭院,出家人在此修寺庙、建宫观.什刹海的名称使是出自寺庙:“……湖滨梵宇林立,而十刹海作为湖泊名称,却已屡见记载。或谐间写作什刹海,又口碑相传又已想沿成习……(侯仁之)”。解放后,宋庆龄、郭沫若、梅兰芳等众多名人亦曾居住在什刹海畔,为她又增添无数佳话。王府园林、木楼石桥、庙宇堂馆、名人故居无不显示着什刹海地区丰厚的历史文化积淀
● 宋庆龄故居,原是清醇亲王载沣的府邸花园。
● 宋庆龄故居内长廊,杨柳轻飚、碧水回环、楼堂掩映,充满了诗情画意。
● 梅兰芳故居是一座典型的北京二进四合院,其前身是庆王府的一部分。
● 郭沫若故居原为清代和申府花园和恭亲王府草料场与马厩。

When you walk around Shichahai, a sense of its history inevitably hits you. Composed of three man-made lakes, Qianhai ("Front Sea" Lake), Houhai ("Rear Sea" Lake) and the lesser-known Xihai ("West Sea" Lake) once formed part of a system of waterways that fed into the Imperial Capital. For centuries wooden boats carrying produce from the south would make the journey up the Grand Canal and enter the city via these waterways. Those days are long gone. After a period of decline, the lakes, are now a prime recreational destination. With overhanging willows lining its banks and cafébars tucked away in its many secluded corners, it is also a delightful area to relax over a drink while watching life on and off the water.
At the south end of Qianhai Lake and opposite the North Gate of neighboring Beihai Park's North Gate is a recently renovated square where flowers in full bloom serve as the perfect background to stunning rock sculptures. The square is popular with locals who come here to exercise, fly kites, play cards or even have their hair cut. Curios are also on sale while pedicab drivers chat as they wait for passengers wanting to be carried around the neighboring hutongs. This is almost a scene out of a movie set in "Old Beijing".
As the paved track winds around the eastern side of the lake it passes a dock lined with motorized pleasure boats. On the other side, the floating Romance Bar provides dinner on the lake to the accompaniment of traditional string instruments. Hidden behind some trees to the right are several fine new restaurants while offshore a small island with its round pavilion has been transformed into a secluded bar.
Looking down across Qianhai our eyes are drawn to the magnificent Drum (Gulou) and Bell (Zhonglou) Towers which functioned as important timepieces of the Imperial Capital from as early as the 15th century. Just below the two towers, the far shore is lined with traditional grey-tiled low buildings-former homes of officials whose daily lives revolved around the bell chimes.
As we walk farther ahead we arrive at the elegant Wanning Bridge. Constructed from marble only two years ago, it stands above a canal which once flowed to the south of the Old City. Nearby, the much older Houmen stone Bridge, on which carved creatures 'guard' the waters, carries Dianmen Xi Dajie across the canal where it then forms the western part of an east-west axis line running through the Old City. Adjacent, we stumble upon a temple being restored to its former glory after of being hidden behind unplanned buildings.
Soon the path turns northwest and after passing another boat dock it goes down a narrow road. Several more small restaurants crowd the street next to bars including the popular No Name. Despite its name, the bar is far from being unknown as urbanites regularly gather there for its charming, antique shop like interior and the picturesque lake views it provides. Just behind is the very sophisticated Nuage Vietnamese restaurant while other new watering holes also stand nearby. Further down the lane are the long-established Kaorouji, which is famous for its duck, and several neighboring Muslim restaurants.
As we leave Qianhai and reach Houhai, we spot the intricately decorated Silver Ingot Bridge which crosses a canal leading from the lake. Once an area full of commercial activity, today it quietly overlooks the pleasure boats passing underneath. Clear weather offers superb views from here to the distant Fragrant Hills. It seems that much of the commercial activity has moved to the neighboring shores. Although once a quiet location frequented by artists, it is now lined with yet more bars and restaurants. But it seems some vestiges of Old Beijing eateries have survived this modernization as small dumpling and noodle parlors serve pedicab drivers crowded in the nearby square.
Heading eastwards we arrive at the Lane of the Long Stem Pipe Makers, a street whose earlier canal-related commercial function has also, you guessed it, given way to more cafe bars.
Opposite the lane, is Ya Er Hutong which heads northwest. This narrow alley free from the bustle around the bridge offers a step back in time. Mostly lined with residential buildings, there are some fascinating structures including an elaborate two-storey white building featuring contrasting timber balconies.

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