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SHANG PALACE SHANGRI-LA HOTEL – BEIJING

(2010-10-19 10:28:38)
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杂谈

Dear Cherry,

I always enjoy returning to the beautifully perfumed air found in all Shangri-La managed hotels, and in the last 3 years I have been many times to the elegant Shangri-La Hotel – Beijing.  My favorite restaurant there is SHANG PALACE.  Upon approaching the restaurant located on the second floor of the original tower, just seeing the name of the restaurant congers up memories of romantic images created by my imagination during my detailed studies of the Shang Dynasty in The Cambridge History of Ancient China.  Quoting from the hotel’s website “The award-winning Shang Palace is ideal for sampling and savoring Cantonese cuisine.  Hong Kong native Chef Chau Oi Fong leads a team of chefs as they create aesthetically beautiful and authentic dishes.  Not to be missed are the regional specialties and daily dim sum lunch, all of which can be enjoyed while gazing out across the hotel's spectacular gardens.”  I arrived early to have a drink in the Cloud Nine Bar, hoping my old friend Amanda Yan was working.  I have known her for several years in different positions as her career deservedly develops in this hotel.  With luck she was so I ordered my martini from her and we had a nice long chat to catch up.  I always like to see her model quality smile, which launched me into a very happy evening, as usual.  This evening my business partner Johnny Chan joined me for dinner.  I introduced him to Amanda and we enjoyed our drinks before moving to SHANG PALACE.  As we entered the restaurant we were greeted by Cedric Besler, the Director of Food & Beverage for the hotel.  He ushered us to our table and sat with us to discuss our plans for dinner and the wines.  We decided that we wanted a bottle of Champagne to start with and while this was being organized we met Mariana Song, a Captain, and Jacky Bai, the Assistant Manager of another restaurant in the hotel, Blu Lobster, from where he brought our Champagne, Perrier Jouet Blason Rose Brut, non-vintage.  We had a toast and then reviewed the menu.  I selected 8 courses and gave our order to Mariana.  The Rose Champagne was very nice, balanced and pure.

 

The Menu was extensive and beautifully prepared in Chinese and English with many great food photos accompanied by descriptions.  Due to space limitations I must omit details of preparation, but you will find all the menu headings below:

 

LIVE SEAFOOD

YOUR CHOICE OF STEAMED PLAIN / STEAMED PRESERVED VEGETABLES WRAPPED IN LOTUS LEAF / SWEET AND SOUR / SAUTÉED WITH BLACK BEAN SAUCE / DEEP-FRIED GLAZED WITH DICED PEPPERCORN SAUCE / POACHED / PANFRIED / HOMEMADE SAUCE.

PACIFIC GAROUPA, SO MEI, EASTERN SPOTTED GAROUPA, PINK GAROUPA, TURBOT, SEA GAROUPA, MANDARIN FISH, WHITE EEL; AUSTRALIAN LOBSTER; ROE CRAB; MEAT CRAB LIVE ABALONE, AND LIVE SCALLOP;

 

FISH AND SEAFOOD

LIVE FAN SCALLOPS STEAMED;

CRISPY RICE PAPER ROLLED WITH CRABMEAT;

SILVER CODFISH BAKED;

BRAISED TIGER PRAWNS GLAZED;

ROASTED RIVER EEL;

LIVE SCALLOPS;

CRISPY TIGER PRAWN;

CRAB LEG;

SLICED SEA WHELK SAUTÉED;

SWEET AND SOUR PRAWNS;

SCALLOPS SAUTÉED;

MANDARIN FISH BRAISED “HUAIYANG” STYLE;

 

APPETIZERS

STEWED PIG TROTTER;

MARINATED DRUMSTICK;

DUCK TONGUE MARINATED;

SOYA SAUCE PIGEON;

TAI BAI DRUNKEN CHICKEN;

MARINATED SLICED BEEF SHANK;

CRISPY SNAPPER;

BITTER GOURD MARINATED;

THAI RIVER SHRIMPS MARINATED;

CRISPY YELLOW CROAKER BRAISED;

POACHED CHICKEN “SHANGHAI” STYLE;

JELLY FISH HEAD MARINATED;

MARINATED MIXED VEGETABLES;

CHINESE YAM MARINATED;

CHILLED BEANCURD GARNISHED;

SALTED SLICED DUCK LIVER;

BEAN CURD SHEET;

MARINATED MUSHROOMS;

BLACK WOOD FUNGUS MARINATED;

CRUSHED CUCUMBERS AND GARLIC CLOVES MARINATED “BEIJING” STYLE;

GLUTEN BRAISED;

FRESH BEANCURD SHEET MARINATED;

CHAOZHOU CHILLED FLOWERY CRAB;

 

BARBECUE

BEIJING ROAST DUCK SERVED IN 2 STYLES;

ROASTED SUCKLING PIG COMBINATION PLATTER;

ROASTED SUCKLING PIG GARNISHED WITH JELLY FISH;

ROASTED GOOSE;

DELUXE BARBECUED MEAT PLATTER;

BARBECUED PORK;

ROASTED JIANGCUN YELLOW CHICKEN;

CHAOZHOU MARINATED MEAT PLATTER;

CHAOZHOU MARINATED GOOSE KIDNEY;

CHAOZHOU MARINATED CUTTLEFISH;

CHAOZHOU MARINATED PORK BELLY;

CHAOZHOU MARINATED PIG KNUCKLE;

PORK BRISKET ROASTED “CANTONESE” STYLE;

 

SHARK’S FIN

BRAISED SUPERIOR SHARK’S FIN SOUP;

SUPERIOR SHARK’S FIN BRAISED WITH RED DATE SAUCE;

SUPERIOR SHARK’S FIN BRAISED IN LIGHT CHICKEN BROTH;

SUPERIOR SHARK’S FIN SOUP TOPPED WITH FRESH CRAB ROE;

SUPERIOR SHARK’S FIN SOUP BRAISED WITH HASHIMA;

SUPERIOR SHARK’S FIN SOUP BRAISED WITH CRABMEAT;

SUPERIOR SHARK’S FIN SOUP DOUBLE-BOILED WITH JINHUA HAM AND GREEN MUSTARD;

SHARK’S FIN SOUP DOUBLE-BOILED WITH CHINESE HERBS, ABALONE, FISH MAW, SEA CUCUMBER, JINHUA HAM AND CHICKEN (MONK JUMPS OVER THE WALL);

SHARK’S FIN AND WONTON DOUBLE-BOILED IN SUPERIOR BROTH;

HOT AND SOUR SHARK’S FIN SOUP “THAI” STYLE;

SHARK’S FIN SOUP BRAISED WITH FISH MAW AND SEA CUCUMBER;

SHARK’S FIN BROTH DOUBLE-BOILED WITH GREEN MUSTARD;

SHARK’S FIN SOUP BRAISED WITH CRABMEAT;

SHARK’S FIN SOUP BRAISED WITH SHREDDED FISH MAW, SEA CUCUMBER, SOUTH AFRICAN ABALONE AND CHICKEN;

 

BIRD’S NEST

BRAISED SUPERIOR BIRD’S NEST SOUP;

BRAISED PREMIUM BIRD’S NEST SOUP;

SUPERIOR BIRD’S NEST BROTH DOUBLE-BOILED;

SUPERIOR BIRD’S NEST BRAISED IN CHICKEN SOUP;

BIRD’S NEST SOUP BRAISED WITH SHREDDED CUTTLEFISH;

BIRD’S NEST SOUP BRAISED WITH FISH MAW;

BIRD’S NEST SOUP BRAISED WITH CONPOY;

BIRD’S NEST SOUP BRAISED WITH MINCED CHICKEN BREAST;

SWEETENED PREMIUM BIRD’S NEST SOUP DOUBLE-BOILED IN A PAPAYA;

SWEETENED SUPERIOR BIRD’S NEST DOUBLE-BOILED IN A PAPAYA;

SWEETENED SUPERIOR BIRD’S NEST SOUP DOUBLE-BOILED WITH RED DATES;

SWEETENED SUPERIOR BIRD’S NEST SOUP IN A COCONUT;

 

ABALONE, FISH MAW & SEA CUCUMBER

A WHOLE 8-HEADS OUMA ABALONE BRAISED;

A WHOLE 20-HEADS YOSHIHAMA ABALONE BRAISED;

A WHOLE 14-HEADS SUPERIOR MIDDLE EAST ABALONE BRAISED;

A WHOLE 20-HEADS SUPERIOR MIDDLE EAST ABALONE BRAISED;

A WHOLE 1-HEAD SOUTH AFRICAN ABALONE BRAISED;

A WHOLE 2-HEADS SOUTH AFRICAN ABALONE BRAISED;

A WHOLE 3-HEADS SOUTH AFRICAN ABALONE BRAISED;

A WHOLE 1-HEAD CHILLED SLICED ABALONE;

SLICED FRESH ABALONE BRAISED WITH FISH MAW;

SLICED FRESH ABALONE BRAISED WITH SEA CUCUMBER;

SLICED FRESH ABALONE BRAISED WITH GOOSE WEB;

SLICED FRESH ABALONE BRAISED WITH JAPANESE SEA CUCUMBER;

JAPANESE SEA CUCUMBER BRAISED WITH FISH MAW;

GOOSE WEBS AND FISH MAW STEWED;

JAPANESE SEA CUCUMBER STEWED;

BEEF FILLET WITH SLICED SOUTH AFRICAN ABALONE;

 

SOUPS

SPICY AND SOUR FISH SOUP;

CHINESE SPINACH SOUP WITH ASSORTED SEAFOOD;

GRASS CARPFISH MEAT BALL SOUP;

MINCED CONPOY SOUP WITH ENOKI MUSHROOMS;

HASHIMA SOUP WITH SEAFOOD;

SLICED CHICKEN BROTH DOUBLE-BOILED;

SHANG PALACE MATSUTAKE BROTH;

BLACK MUSHROOM SOUP DOUBLE-BOILED;

DAILY DOUBLE-BOILED SOUP;

SOUP OF THE DAY;

 

POULTRY

SHANG PALACE CRISPY CHICKEN;

SIGNATURE CHICKEN BRAISED IN SUPERIOR SAUCE;

CRISPY DUCKLING GARNISHED WITH CRISPY GLUTINOUS RICE;

CRISPY PIGEON GARNISHED WITH POTATO CHIPS;

SAUTÉED CRISPY DICED DUCK;

CHICKEN BREAST SAUTÉED;

SAUTÉED CHICKEN MEAT;

SAUTÉED PIGEON BREAST;

CURRY CHICKEN STEWED;

 

MEAT

SIGNATURE SPICED SPARE RIBS;

PAN-FRIED BACON ROLLS;

PAN-FRIED MINCED SHRIMP AND BEEF;

SLICED PORK SAUTÉED;

SPARE RIBS FRAGRANT;

STEAMED SPARE RIBS WITH HAM;

PIG TROTTERS AND PEANUT STEWED;

DICED OSTRICH SAUTÉED;

NEW ZEALAND RACK OF LAMB PAN-FRIED;

BEEF TENDERLOIN PAN-FRIED;

SUPER BEEF PAN-FRIED;

BEEF FILLET BRAISED;

STRIPS OF BEEF TENDERLOIN SAUTÉED;

SWEET AND SOUR PORK WITH PINEAPPLE;

 

VEGETARIAN DISHES

CREAM OF SWEET CORN SOUP;

SAUTÉED ASSORTED MUSHROOMS;

BRAISED ENOKI MUSHROOMS;

WATER CHESTNUT SAUTÉED;

GINGKO NUT SAUTÉED;

LOTUS SEEDS SAUTEED;

SAUTÉED MIXED VEGETABLES;

CRISPY ENOKI MUSHROOMS BRAISED;

SWEET AND SOUR POTATOES;

DICED DRIED BEANCURD WITH MIXED VEGETABLES;

FRIED RICE SAUTÉED;

STIR-FRIED SEASONAL VEGETABLES;

CRISPY BEANCURD SHEET SAUTÉED;

VEGETARIAN ABALONE BRAISED;

 

RICE AND NOODLES

UDON SAUTÉED;

CRISPY NOODLES PAN-FRIED;

BEEF NOODLES SAUTÉED;

NOODLES STEWED;

STEWED E-FU NOODLES;

RICE NOODLES SAUTÉED;

RICE VERMICELLI STEWED;

FRIED RICE WITH CHICKEN “FUJIAN” STYLE;

FRIED RICE WITH SEAFOOD AND EGG WHITE;

FRIED RICE WITH MINCED BEEF, AUSTRALIAN SCALLOPS AND SHRIMPS;

FRIED RICE WITH SHREDDED CHICKEN AND LETTUCE;

BEEF NOODLES STEWED;

RICE VERMICELLI STEWED;

 

CLAY POTS

MINCED BEEF BALL STEWED;

KING PRAWNS STEWED;

GOOSE WEB BRAISED;

JAPANESE BEANCURD BRAISED;

CHICKEN SAUTÉED;

CURRY BEEF BRAISED;

CHICKEN BRAISED SERVED IN CLAYPOT;

BEEF BRISKET, CELERY AND TURNIPS STEWED;

AUSTRALIAN SCALLOPS SAUTÉED IN CLAY POT;

CHINESE AIR-DRIED MEAT AND SAUSAGE STEWED IN CLAY POT;

SUCKLING PIG STEWED;

 

PROVINCES HOT DISHES

DRY TURTLE BELLY STEWED;

BEEF DOUBLE-BOILED;

SLICED BEEF AND ENOKI MUSHROOMS SAUTÉED;

LOTUS ROOT STIR-FRIED;

CRISPY TIGER PRAWNS;

CRISPY SHREDDED EEL SAUTÉED;

SHRIMPS SAUTÉED;

TEA TREE MUSHROOMS GRIDDLE-COOKED;

CRABMEAT SOUP DOUBLE-BOILED;

SEA KALE SAUTÉED;

SEA CUCUMBER GRIDDLE-COOKED;

MANDARIN FISH POACHED IN SPICY OIL;

E-FU NOODLES AND PRAWNS BRAISED IN CLAY POT;

 

My Dining Experience Mariana prepared, opened, and chilled two bottles of wine, which we brought to the dinner.  Both from TABALI of Chile, we started with the 2009 Reserva Viognier and followed with the 2008 Limited Edition Reserva Especial Syrah.  Marian brought the first course, an assortment of Chaozhou Marinated Meat, including Duck Breast, Beef Stomach, Egg, Cuttlefish, and Bean Curd in a Lu Shui Sauce, with a Vinegar Dipping Sauce on the side.  Served at the same time was a Chinese Spinach Soup with Assorted Seafood and Straw Mushrooms.  Egg white on the top of the soup formed the Yin/Yang symbol.  I started with the soup and the spinach juice was warm, smooth, and mild.  The seafood, mostly shrimp, was well cooked but tender.  It was a good starter.  Then I moved to the meat platter beginning with the cuttlefish.  It looked like cheese and was sliced like cheese.  I never had fish like this, firmly structured and flavorful and the mixed meat based sauce was light and enhanced the fish.  Next I tried the sliced duck, wiping it through the sauce before eating it.  The sauce tasted unique and I could not identify a specific meat flavor.  Originally from Chaozhou, Johnny explained that Chaozhou restaurants pride themselves in their sauces.  Upon the opening of a restaurant they start cooking meats in a sauce and then continue using it for cooking meats forever, continuously cooking and replenishing the stock as required for each restaurant’s signature flavor.  These sauces are one of the ways Chaozhou restaurants compete with each other.  Coveted by the restaurant staff the sauces can be a draw for customers to come back for more.  I was happy to learn this and I loved this sauce.  I look forward to trying more Chaozhou restaurants and their signature sauces.  Next I had the beef stomach and it was good.  The egg was cooked slowly in the sauce to absorb the flavors, then cooled to room temperature and sliced long ways, and the bean curd was on the bottom so it could absorb the sauce.  These were interesting combinations of flavors and I enjoyed the Champagne with this assortment because it went so well with the sauce.  Camilla Chen, the Assistant Manager came by for a talk about the cuisines of the world and the special nature of Chinese cuisines.  Cathy Zheng, a Captain, Claire Chen and Chrystal Li, Waitress/Managers also stopped by our table to discuss the delights of SHANG PALACE and how much they enjoyed working in such a fine Chinese restaurant, but we were the lucky ones to have their fine service.  Cathy Liu opened our red wine and poured the first glass while Mariana brought our next two dishes, Shrimps Sautéed in Spicy Sauce and Sautéed Beef Fillet with Black Pepper and Mustard Sauce.  The shrimp dish was loaded with spices and the sauce was medium thick and flavorful, all accompanied by chopped celery, green onions, and peanuts.  I love peanuts in food and in this dish I was particularly happy with the addition of their flavor.  The small shrimps were firm and good and absorbed the multitude of flavors during the sauté.  I liked both wines with this dish and though I normally would choose the white, this dish was better served by the full flavor of the syrah because it stood up to the spices and sweetness of the sauce.  The beef dish was another sauté with lots of garlic cloves, chopped asparagras, red pepper, black wood fungus, water chestnut, and deep fried batter made from flour, which absorbed the strong flavors of the black pepper and mustard sauce.  Again, the syrah was king with this dish.  Sabrina Song, a Waitress Trainee, triggered the next course and after a while Mariana brought a special chicken dish (not on the menu), where a whole chicken with chestnut, preserved sliced Sichuan pickle, angelica, sliced pork, red dates, and lotus seeds are combined and wrapped in lotus leaves and baked in the oven.  This dish is very special!  Mariana rolled back the lotus leaves and steam rose from the chicken preparation and filled the room with a spectacular, hunger-inducing aroma.  First I tried the Sichuan pickles and pork and they were fantastic.  The angelica is a Chinese medicine and is a little bitter when eaten.  It was meant to release an extract into the food for health benefits.  The chicken was very tender and the combination of ingredients was unique and previously not in my experience.  All the flavors were absorbed by the chicken as well as the accompaniments, giving all of it a wonderful blending of flavors where every part contributed to the whole and each part benefitted from the other parts.  A traditional dish from South China meant for home-like service, Chef Jiang Zhu Li (our chef for the evening) prepares this dish as a good will gesture to welcome guests to the restaurant’s family.  This dish was the star in my sky this night because I absolutely loved it.  Oh, so good!  Taking a few minutes to sip some wine and let things settle, we talked with Lydia Ma, Manager of the Japanese Restaurant Nishimura, who stopped by to kindly invite us to dine in her restaurant on another night.  Resuming our quest for exemplary Chinese cuisine, Mariana brought another delight, Crispy Rice Paper Rolls with Crabmeat, Mushrooms, and Melted Cheese Coated with Almond Flakes.  As you can imagine, these 6 rolls coated in almond flakes were a burst of soft flavors, so nice and mild following the full flavors of the chicken wrapped in lotus leaves.  They were light and fluffy while the crispy almonds varied the texture.  Food Runners Jack Du and James Jiang brought our next dish with big smiles, Pan Fried Scallops with Mustard Sauce.  The mustard sauce was smooth and mild and the mustard very delicate.  3 scallops and shredded fried leek (used as a very subtle herb) were on top.  The scallops were tender and well accompanied by the sauce.  Mariana brought dessert, which was Fresh Fruit and Mango Pudding with Moon cake, but before we tasted it Cedric brought a bottle of 2006 La Chapelle de Bages, a Bordeaux from Pauillac in France and Tom Shao, the Bartender from Cloud Nine Bar, who made my excellent martini earlier, brought a tiny bottle of Underberg, an herbal digestive.  The label states “After a good meal to feel bright and alert” and “Made from a selection of the finest aromatic herbs from 43 countries, the unique blend of costly herbal ingredients and premium quality alcohol is Underberg, a perfectly natural herbal digestive, 44% by volume from Germany.”  Leaning back in our chairs we enjoyed our fresh fruit with the Bordeaux, and a great talk with Cedric while sampling the elegant digestives, the Underberg and one from the Czech Republic called Becherovka.  Following it all with a cold glass of sparkling water by Badoit, we wrapped up another fabulous evening of fun, food, and great wines.  My sincere appreciation goes to Chef Jiang Zhu Li, his entire kitchen staff, and all the service staff mentioned above.  My special thanks goes to Cedric Besler for his superior leadership and for sharing his passion for excellence with us.  I anxiously await my return visit to SHANG PALACE!  Thank you all.

 

CHEERS!

 

My Best as Always,

 

Randy

 

 

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