最成都的宽巷子窄巷子

三年前，我在飞往西藏时只在成都双流机场短暂停留过，成都平原在我眼底是一幅幅由农田拼成的画。这是印象成都。

真正认识成都，是前不久踏进了成都的宽巷子窄巷子。用踏字不确切，应该是“踱”。因为进入这里，我便成了百年前的市民，或是一个当年的旧文人，与二三好友，或者还有丫环，一起来这里做风雅状。在这里，时光的流水突然变得缓慢起来，仰望天上的太阳，那投射下来的光芒也似乎是懒懒地映到屋顶、芭蕉叶、和我的脸上。我的眼前，尽管是一些打扮入时的现代人，但来来往往的人流，总让我如同置身于百年前的成都市井。我深信，粗犷的东北腔，火辣的湖南话，在宽巷子窄巷子里会立即变得柔软，而吴越来的人，则会吐气如兰。宽巷子窄巷子俨然一口文化的老井，我们深陷其中，再也不能自拔。

三百年前，康熙派三千官兵平定窜扰西藏的准噶尔部后，留下千多兵丁在此筑城，这些远离京都的戍人，悠悠地过起了日子，渐渐忘却归路。岁月带走了一切，却留下了现在的45个清末民初风格的四合院落，宅中有园，园里有屋，屋中有院，院中有树，树上有天，天上有月，宽巷子、窄巷子和井巷子三条平行排列的老式街道串联起它们，形成了迥异于摩天大楼的城市生态。

在巷子里踱步，我总凝神于那些老宅子紧闭的大门，我知道，那门后曾经住过一代代人物，他们的后人，也一定还残留些与众不同的气质。透过花墙，只见少数原住民，坐在庭院里，慢慢的品茶，他们的脸上，一脸的淡然，仿佛闯进他们生活的这些外来客根本不存在似地。那当街而卧的小狗，也是睁一只眼闭一只眼地懒得答理游客，任由阳光轻轻晒着它们的毛发。张择端的《清明上河图》毕竟只是一幅图，而此刻，如织的人流，正徜徉在百年前的成都市井里。

各种小吃的名称，也把人一下拉回旧时光里，习惯了西餐的人们，才猛然醒悟民族的饮食是如此丰富。250米长的巷子，仿佛要走上百年，走了宽巷，再走窄巷，竟不忍离去。我的诗友翟永明在巷子里开了白夜酒吧，石光华开了川菜餐厅，李亚伟开了民间精品茶社，他们一直没有走出四川，原来是宽巷子窄巷子留住了他们。民间有句俗语：少不入川，老不离蜀。如此地享受人生的所在，让你觉得一切的奋斗都美不过这么一个结果，这里最成都，这里最生活，这里最人生。

The most wide-lane alley in Chengdu

 

Three years ago, I flew to Tibet in the Shuangliu Airport in Chengdu, only had a short stay, the Chengdu Plain is an increase in my eyes makes up the painting from the field. This is the impression of Chengdu.

Real understanding of Chengdu, Chengdu is the width of recently entered the alley alley. Imprecise use of the word step, should be "walked." Because getting into here, I will become a hundred years ago the members of the public, or a year old scholar, and two or three friends, or there is the maid, elegance like to do together here. Here, the time of the water suddenly slow up, look up sun in the sky, it cast down the light also seems to be lazily mapped to the roof, banana leaves, and my face. My eyes, although some modern people dressed, but the flow of people coming and going, always make me as exposure to a hundred years ago in Chengdu well. I am convinced that the rough northeast chamber, hot Hunan, then in the wide alley alleys house will immediately become soft, and Wu Yue to the people, will be breathing, such as blue. Wide alley alley is like a culture of old wells, and we caught them, no longer unable to extricate themselves.

Three hundred years ago, Emperor Kangxi sent three thousand soldiers harassed in Tibet Junggar put down, the left over a thousand soldiers in this fortification, the garrison away from Kyoto, who had played a leisurely day, and gradually forget the return. All the years away, but left the now 45 off the Late Qing Dynasty-style courtyard, the house of a garden, garden to have a flat, house a hospital, the hospital in the tree, the tree one day, the sky for a month wide alley, alley, and roadway three parallel sub-series from their old-fashioned streets, forming a different city in ecological skyscraper.

Paced in the alley, I always listened attentively to those old houses closed doors, I know, that the door had lived in from generation to generation people, their descendants, it can certainly still remained some unique temperament. Through the wall displaying, I saw a small number of indigenous people, sitting in the garden, tea slowly, their faces, and a look of indifferent, as if they broke into their lives, adding that foreign visitors do not exist. That street dog's clothes, but also an eye, one eye closed to tourists too lazy to hear him and let the sun gently basking in their hair. Zhang Zeduan of the "painting" after all, just a map, but at the moment, such as the texture of people, are wandering around the well in Chengdu, a hundred years ago.

The name of a variety of snacks, but also to look back to the old days where people, accustomed to Western people, the diet was a rude awakening nation is so rich. 250 m-long alley, as if a hundred years to go, go wide lane, walk in alleys, actually could not bear to leave. My poet friends Yongming White Nights in the open alley bar, Shi Guanghua opened Sichuan restaurant, Ya-Wei Li opened a civil fine tea house, they have not been out of Sichuan, the original is wide alley alley to keep them. A folk saying goes: not less Sichuan, the old separated from Sichuan. So where to enjoy life, make you feel all the struggles are the United States, but such a result, where most of Chengdu, where most of life, where most life.

南来北往的食客品尝成都美食


                  挑选成都特色的小玩意儿

                   绝活掏耳洞，好舒服哟

                       烟杆长长，岁月悠悠

                  小吃的名称极富成都特色

                        旗幡招摇

                               瞧一瞧旧时贵族的深宅里藏着什么

                                   人流如织

                狗懒洋洋当街而卧，不答理游客


                    老宅子里走出的老人也许就是个不平凡的人

                           累了，倚着洋夫人歇一歇


                                  旧时的丫环让文人们顿生怀古之情

文史乱侃：

13岁女孩为谁坚守5年贞操？（图）   白居易为何要玩朦胧？（图） 才子李约是个同性恋者？  看手相让出轨的女人大吃一惊（图）    谁害惨了清朝守寡的才女？（图）

苏轼为何拯救杭州风尘女？（图） 战场上谁敢拿命赌风流？(图)  华君武先生为何一辈子在检讨（图）