At
the southern edge of the north
china plain lies qingling mountains. At 1500km long, they run like
a backbone through the middle of china. Deep within the mountains
is a maze of remote valleys and
forests home to a strange and wonderful creature. These are golden
snub-nosed monkeys, a species
unique to china. Seldom seen, they
are frequently heard. Their
strange, child-like calls and extraordinary appearance may have
inspired the local tales of yeti-like wild men of the mountains. As
the winter temperature drops to minus 10 degrees Celsius, their
dense fur keep them warm. Mutual
grooming not only keeps that precious fur in good condition, but
also helps to reinforce bonds
within the troop. In summer the monkeys go around in huge bands,
but at this lean time of the year, they spilt up into smaller foraging parties. In the dead of winter, the
monkeys are forced to rummage
around the rocks for a few meager morsels of lichen and moss. As
the world surrounding their mountain home has filled up with towns and
croplands, the snub-nosed monkey’s habitat has changed
dramatically. Today there are just 10,000 left in
existence.


To
the people who live in Qinling mountain, the forests and its
wildlife are a resources to be used as the basis of their
livelihood. These people share the forest with an even more
illusive inhabitant. It’s probably
china’s most famous animal but very few have ever seen it. Unlike
the monkeys, this creature has a very specific diet- bamboo. It’s
wild giant panda. Secret and sensitive to noise, the giant panda is
often gone before anyone going get
close to it. The panda has long been known in china. It was
mentioned in dictionary more than 2000 years ago and the
imperial garden is said to have
housed one. In the dense bamboo
forests, one panda rarely sees another. Instead they communicate by
subtle scent signals. At a meter
and half long and 135 kilos, the giant panda is a member of bear
family. But its bear-like digest
system is built for eating meat, not this tough, fibrous stuff. And
to make matters worse, the bamboo leaves are frozen
solid. But the panda has devised a
cunning way of breaking the ice
off. It rubs the bamboo over its
snout. Unlike other bears, the panda can’t fatten itself up and hibernate through the
winter. Bamboo is so low in energy that panda must spend most of the day eating.
Once it has exhausted one area, it must move on to the next. The
panda’s paw is surprisingly unbearlike too. It’s flexible, with a
enlarged wrist bone which
allows it to grasp but
maneuver the bamboo with
dexterity and precision that a
monkey would be proud of. Twisting
the bamboo leaves into a cigar shape makes them easier to
munch. Hungry pandas once roamed across vast tracks of bamboo-rich forest that
covered much of china’s heartland.
But since the 1950s, logging has
fragmented the qinling mountain
forests. Its remaining wild pandas are now confined within isolated
reserves.


In
the last fifty years, china’s heartland has been subjected to
desertification, drying rivers and
deforestation, affecting not only people, but wildlife too.
The relationship between the Chinese people and their environment
appears to be out of balance. But if we dig it a little bit deeper,
there are some surprising and
intimate connections even today.
Clues to the nature of these links can be found in everyday life,
even in the centre of china’s capital city. In the parks of
Beijing, mandarin ducks keep a close watch over their young.
Believed by the Chinese to pair for life, they have been seen for
centuries as a symbol of love and fidelity. Images of these birds are believed
to improve personal relationships. As a result, Beijing’s mandarin
ducks are highly protected.


The
alleyways of the capital’s ancient
hudongs are home to a very different kind of creature. Each day
zhouguoguang tends his brood of pigeons, his chance to escape the
pressures of city life for an hour or
two. Up here on the rooftops, zhou is confident his charges
will be safe. But in the street below, lurk dangerous spirits that scavenge and steal.
Deeper into the hutongs, the influence of modern Beijing
recedes. These alleys are full of ancient beliefs. As night falls,
spirits emerge from their hiding places, the yellow weasel. Some
people believe that offending this crafty
predator
can bring bad luck. So they turn a blind eye to the weasel’s night-time
marauding. Old beliefs
coupled with a rising awareness of
conservation are helping the yellow weasel’s survive in the middle
of Beijing despite killing the odd
pigeon.
In
the south of china the relationship with nature appears more
brutal. Cantonese cuisine is
famous for its diversity; summed
up in the saying “we’ll eat anything on four legs, except a
table”. And though the government has banned consumption of wild life in china and most of
the meat here comes from captive-bred animals, a significant amount is
taken illegally from the wild.
This restaurant in
hongkong specializes in serpents. Most are harmless rat snakes, but with the odd cobra on the menu. One
false move could spell trouble. Caokailing has lost count of
the number of times she’s been bitten. So she always carries a
Chinese herbal remedy just in case. We might turn our noses up at such a strange choice of
food. But eating snake is more than just a matter of taste, the
Cantonese believe it can help to clean the blood, increase
vitality and beautify the skin. In
such a crowded land, a tradition of eating everything with very little waste could be seen as commendable thrift. The problem is that there are so many people eating wild
food in south china that illegal supply chain stretches
well beyond its borders,
contributing to the disappearance of wild life not only within
china but from other countries too.
A visit to a
traditional Chinese medicine shop reveals another aspect of the use
of animals and plants. Dr. song has been practicing for over 20
years. The most important part of his diagnosis is the pulse,
examined in several places. Dr. song also observes the color of the
tongue and eyes and asks questions about the patient’s taste, smell
and even dreams. Once satisfied with his diagnosis, he’ll write a
prescription using a script unique to doctors. Chinese traditional
medicine uses an incredible array
of animals, vegetables and minerals to treat individual rather than the illness, aiming to restore the harmony of the
opposing but complementary forces known in china as “yin
and yang”. The concept is rooted in the ancient belief that the
universe is harmonious and that the people are intimately connected to and affected by their
environment. Despite the seemingly bizarre nature of the
ingredients, Chinese traditional medicine has been successfully
treating people for thousands of years. But although the use of
endangered wild life ingredients
in medicine is now banned in china, some wild animals and plants
are still used illegally. Once again, nature bears the
cost.


But Chinese
tradition has borrowed from nature in other ways which are not
in the least exploitative. In
ancient Chinese philosophy men was considered part of the natural
world and able to benefit from its wisdom. Thousands of years ago,
Buddhist monks on scared shaolin mountain incorporated their
observations of wild creatures into a system of exercises to help
the flow of energy and build strength. This animal-inspired art-form became kung fu. Today
ancient shaoling mountain, the place where kungfu began, remains
its prime training center.
Shienting is a master. Students from all over the country come here
to learn the ancient knowledge derived from the natural world. The
emphasis today is perhaps more on the physical rather than the
philosophical elements that underlie kungfu, but it’s a significant
re-awakening. This seven-year-old
is perfecting the devastating
punch of the praying mantis. When combined and perfected, these animal forms such as mantis,
monkey and crane become an unstoppable force.
Ancient Chinese
philosophy took nature itself as the inspiration for its most fabulous creature.
Fertile rivers may have shaped the civilization, but the Chinese
believed that the rivers themselves were formed and controlled by a
dragon. Unlike the destructive dragon of the west, the Chinese
dragon was benevolent provided it was treated with respect. The
ancient Chinese called themselves descendants of the dragon and
knew they needed to live harmoniously in the dragon’s realm.


This respect for
the dragon has relevance today for
a remarkable creature which lives around the paddy fields of the
other china’s great river- the Yangzi. This fearsome-looking beast is a Chinese alligator
known as the muddy dragon. Despite its association with the
mythical Chinese dragon, the reptile has long been regarded by
country people as a fish-eating pest and has been persecuted almost to the point
of extinction. There are only around 150 Chinese alligators left in
the wild and it’s mainly down to
the care and protection offered by
dedicated people like retired farmer changjingrong that any survive at all. Today most Chinese
alligators live in captivity. At the breeding center near
xuancheng, Chinese alligators gather for their extraordinary
courtship. The males bellow to attract a mate. As it travels through the water, the
sound is both heard and felt by the female. The
bellowing is her cue to
investigate. In the alien world of
the Chinese alligator, this two will be able to learn much about
each other, using the scent
glands under their jaws. Satisfied with
her choice, the two swim
off together before mating. The muddy dragon owes its
continual survival to a government initiative a quarter of a
century ago which created the captive breeding center at
Xuancheng.


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