http://tc/maxwidth.2048/tc.service.weibo.com/p/www_permanentstyle_co_uk/76bd1219a8cab934b75524e3a12a57cb.jpgCrompton在他的网站Permanentstyle.co.uk对我我们进行了一次详细的报道：" />
Last month we had a book
launch at the Brio menswear store in
Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop
– because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a
pleasing trend in more specialist
tailoring and craft stores opening.
Brio was founded by George Wang, an ex-banker who used to work
in Hong Kong. An active Style Forum member, he regularly travelled
to Italy to have bespoke suits made. George left
the industry in 2008 and, like so many ex-bankers
I hear from around the world, decided to pursue his
dreams in menswear. The shop, Brio, opened in
Beijing in January this year.
http://tc/maxwidth.2048/tc.service.weibo.com/p/www_permanentstyle_co_uk/4c5b6988a5e27fdaf43ab65186655ddf.jpgCrompton在他的网站Permanentstyle.co.uk对我我们进行了一次详细的报道：" />
Brio is slightly more high-end, on average, that other stores such
as the Armoury. Where the Armoury has both Carmina
and Saint Crispin’s shoes, for example, Brio stocks Edward Green
and Stefano Bemer; it lacks more of the ‘entry-level’ shoe or
suit.
In shirts, Brio has Avino and G. Inglese. Avino does a good
functional Neapolitan shirt: hand-inserted sleeves, collar and
shoulder seam, but machine elsewhere; it makes Liverano’s shirts
among others. The other brand, Inglese, is a big step up.
Everything is done by hand (though of course often reinforced by
machine) – as above plus the side seams, bottom edge and sleeve
gauntlet. There is also decorative pick stitching around the
collar, shoulder seam and gauntlet.
George has a range of Rota
trousers, and being Rota has been able to
specify some personal aspects to the make and
carry them in some interesting cloths: there are two shades of
washed denim among the whites, creams and
browns.
The tailoring is by Dalcuore, a Neapolitan house founded in the
1960s that does both RTW and bespoke. Dalcuore has done a few
bespoke trips to Beijing already (pictured below) but Brio also
carries a good range of their RTW jackets with unfinished
sleeves that can be finished in-house.
In fact Brio’s on-site tailor might be one of
the smartest things about the shop, at least for the Chinese
market. It means George can deal with any further
alterations on things made by visiting tailors (such as Dalcuore
and Ambrosi) and quickly alter anything else for customers that
aren’t prepared to wait for the full bespoke experience.
Other stock includes Schiatti casual jackets, Cappelli ties,
Sozzi socks, Liverano scarves and Talarico
umbrellas. The umbrellas are all imported personally by the guys
when they travel – like many things, including Bemer’s wooden
shoeboxes, getting such things into China is not easy.
There are also Martinenghi bags (which I wasn’t such a fan of)
and Giacometti hiking boots (also labelled
under Walles, or Marmolada).
http://tc/maxwidth.2048/tc.service.weibo.com/p/www_permanentstyle_co_uk/b970b3fb9f35fcfaa1be1195b50856dd.jpgCrompton在他的网站Permanentstyle.co.uk对我我们进行了一次详细的报道：" />
It’s early days for Brio and for the Beijing audience in
general. Although keen, most of the customers are young enthusiasts
rather than bigger spenders.
But these things can change remarkably quickly. I remember
fondly walking into Leffot in New York the week it opened, and a
colleague swearing to me no one in NY would spend 1000s of dollars
on shoe brands without advertising or big branding. I’ve managed to
visit Steven at Leffot every year since around the same time, and
it’s wonderful to see how wrong my colleague was.
When I visited, trouser maker Salvatore Ambrosi was there for
his second visit to the store; Dalcuore had just
left; and Ann Ryley from Begg had been a couple of months earlier.
It’s early days, as I say; but the signs are good.
http://tc/maxwidth.2048/tc.service.weibo.com/p/www_permanentstyle_co_uk/b7e0b66923430e2aaef8839e800a5752.jpgCrompton在他的网站Permanentstyle.co.uk对我我们进行了一次详细的报道：" />
加载中…