走出茶卡，一路向西。高速公路路况不错。
在前往德令哈的途中，我们看到了“情人湖”与外星人遗址的指示牌，出于好奇，也带有疑惑，便拐下了公路。

其实“情人湖”是指位于柴达木盆地东端，德令哈市西南40公里处的柯鲁克湖和托素湖。
关于两个湖，当地还流传着一个凄美的爱情故事：很久以前，在大草原上有一位英俊的青年叫柯鲁克，
一位貌美的姑娘叫托素，两人相亲相爱，就在即将结婚之时，被头人害死。
死后柯鲁克与托素化作一淡一咸的两个湖泊，日夜相守在怀头他拉草原。

我们到达柯鲁克湖时，已是中午时分，朗朗天空，白云朵朵。阳光直射湖面，天水一色。
柯鲁克湖是淡水湖，湖边有情侣的雕塑，还有游船，几乎没有游人。
我们停留了不到十分钟，拍了几张照片，觉得实在是没有什么特别之处，便出来了。
前往托素湖和外星人遗址（这两个景区是在一起的）。      

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    阳光下的柯鲁克湖

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                柯鲁克与托素的情侣雕塑

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                走出柯鲁克湖，看到的是秀美而又多彩的湿地风光     

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              长长的仿佛飘在水上的绿色草带

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          大片黄黄的蒲草，秋天的色彩

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       回望柯鲁克湖

                                                                                                                                                                       真是移步换景。
刚刚还是风光秀美的湿地，
现在呈现在眼前的已是各种形态的沙石山，沙丘和沙地 。  


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        越走越荒凉，却有一种苍茫之美

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     我开始喜欢上了这种感觉

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               一条柏油路在沙石中通向远方  （听说是在我们去之前刚刚修好的，真幸运）

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        走着走着，托素湖出现了，好蓝啊

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        在湖边眺望远山

                                                                                                                                                                      也就是十几公里的路程，我们很快就到了。
到了一个人迹罕至的地方——外星人遗址。
这是一片方圆不过一公里的荒凉之地，满目荒芜，满目的土黄色。
抬头看，一座小山耸立在荒漠之上，当地人称之为“白公山”，山高200余米。山形确有些奇特，呈三角形。
白公山与托素湖山水相依。                                                                                                         

                                                                                                                                                                      所谓的“外星人遗址”就在白公山。
“山下有三个不规则的三角形岩洞，最大的洞深6米。洞内有一根直径40厘米的大铁管从顶上通到洞内，足有百余米长。虽然经过多年的锈蚀，铁管依然清晰可见”（摘自百度有关资料） 
可我们去时并没有见到铁管，只看到锈迹。
也许是面对众多的谜团和猜测，人们暂时找不出答案，才有了外星人之说吧。
这或许对科学家有研究的价值，可对我们普通游客实在是没什么好看的。

从小山上走下来，看到湖边有一个小男孩在卖黑枸杞，便与他攀谈起来。
男孩说：外星人遗址就是一个噱头，主要还是看湖。不过自挂了外星人遗址的牌子后，游人还真的比以前多了。男孩还说：原来在这片湖的岸边，造型奇异的石头，正方形的，长方形的，圆形的，椭圆形的，三角形的随处可见，很有一种诡异的外星感觉，可惜为了建景区，都让大铲车给铲了。
我听后无语，回来便查看了建景区之前百度的照片。
真像男孩说的那样，那一片造型奇异石头很有感觉，特别是在夕阳下，美极了，是摄影者的最爱。
可现在呢，被一片水泥停车场代替了。景区的这一做法，实在是一大败笔！

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    这就是的外星人遗址了

                                                                                                                                                                     
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               看过遗址，沿湖向前走依然是一路的荒凉

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        

                                                                                                                                                                       托素湖是典型的内陆咸水湖，海拔2800米，湖的周边是茫茫的戈壁。
风平浪静时，烟波浩渺，水天一色；
天气变幻时，湖水波涛汹涌，浪花飞溅，拍岸有声，动人心魄。                                             


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         这里也是“天空之镜”

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               这就是我回来后在网上查到的以前的照片，那片石头还在（谢谢照片原作者）


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    这是现在的，只有水边才有的孤零零的石头

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         托素湖的水很清澈

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          托素湖真的很美，纯净而又略带神秘

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 你看见那道金光了吗？就是在瞬间出现的，美极了！

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         光与水的杰作

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 不同的光下呈现出不同色彩

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      大自然的馈赠

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               托素湖的美在于她的无穷变化

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           要离开了，还真有点恋恋不舍

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   一个曾经人迹罕至的地方


个人认为：两湖加一遗址，最精彩的当属托素湖，可以看日出和日落；
                 从柯鲁克湖出来至托素湖一路的风光很独特，也值得一看。
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             （谢谢浏览    待续）