'In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We
risk very little, yet enjoy a position over those who offer up
their work and their selves to our judgment. We thrive on negative
criticism, which is fun to write and to read. But the bitter truth
we critics must face is that in the grand scheme of things, the
average piece of junk is probably more meaningful than our
criticism designating it so. But there are times when a critic
truly risks something and that is in the discovery and defense of
the new. The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations.
The new needs friends. Last night, I experienced something new, an
extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that
both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about
fine cooking is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my
core. In the past, I have made no secret of my disdain for
Chef
