谁见证  谁成长

Five years ago, Hedi Slimane's debut collection for Dior Homme drew praise (from Catherine Deneuve, among others!) for offering “a new way to be masculine.” Since then, he’s created one of the most identifiable and influential vocabularies in menswear, but his latest show—produced amid open conjecture surrounding his future at Dior—did not explore any fresh territory. As usual, the monochrome palette, the hyper-attenuated silhouette, and the impeccable couture finish made for striking images, but the shock of the new has been replaced by something more predictable. A little tan coat that flared into a semi-A-line was the freshest thing in the show, simply because it looked like it was breathing. Otherwise, the thrust of the collection was toward further reduction—from the narrowing of the models to the width of the ties.