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传奇超模系列之MARPESSA HENNINK
(2014-10-22 17:41:07)
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新浪独家系列：传奇超模人物系列
第三弹：Marpessa Hennink
SINA FASHION EXCLUSIVE SERIE: FASHION LEGENDS
Part 3: MARPESSA HENNINK
摄影师Ferdinando
Scianna为品牌杜嘉班纳拍摄的名为“西西里”的照片
Photos "Sicily" by Ferdinando Scianna for Dolce & Gabbana
“秀场女伯爵”
"The Catwalk Contessa".
Marpessa激发了“西西里幻想”系列（摄影师Ferdinando Scianna于1987年拍摄）的灵感，她娇弱性感的美完美迎合着品牌杜嘉班纳。其广告大牌定义了如今独家版纳的品牌核心。
Marpessa sultry, sexy yet vulnerable beauty was so perfect for Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana that she famously inspired the duo their first sicilian fantasy (shot in 1987 by famed Magnum photographer Ferdinando Scianna). That campaign is to this day the defining essence of the brand.
在家乡荷兰被星探发现从而成为了“平面模特”。Marpessa绿色眼眸和微翘上扬的嘴角让她迅速成为了80年代至90年代初的各大时装杂志如ELLE、Marie Claire和Glamour的封面，但是她的绝对优势还是在秀场T台上。
Discovered as a teenager in her native Holland Marpessa started as a "print model". Her beautiful green eyes and pouty lips were quickly everywhere in ELLE, Marie Claire or Glamour in the 80s and early 90s but her real strenght was the catwalk.
她主导着T台。她因其性感柔美的超女人台步增强了服装的魅力，每年两次的时装周（纽约、米兰、巴黎）几乎就是她的天下。满满的行程安排，设计师和经纪人让她在T台和排练（穿插很多派对）中难以平衡。她为很多大牌走过秀，如Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel, Montana, Alaïa, Ungaro, Calvin Klein,Rocco Barocco等等，当然，绝对少不了Dolce & Gabbana!
On the catwalk she dominated. She was famous for her sensual and feline 'walk' that gave the clothes an extra push and the fashion circuit (New York, Milan, Paris) was her moment
twice a year. Designers and agents made her juggle an impossible
schedule between catwalks and rehearsals (with a dose of partying)
to work with all of them. She walked Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel,
Montana, Alaïa, Ungaro, Calvin Klein,Rocco Barocco... etc...and of
course Dolce & Gabbana!
Claude Montana和Azzedine Alaïa每一季都会预定Marpessa走秀，但是她需要十分小心地把自己的预定表从易怒的Alaia面前藏起来，反之亦然。
Claude Montana and Azzedine Alaïa were booking her from season to season but she had to be careful and hide her bookings from the coleric Alaia to the moody Montana and vice-versa.
摄影师：Benedicte Bro
Photo by Bénédicte Bro at Intergallery.cn
问题是，这两个顶尖的设计师互相看不惯对方，所以通常情况下，一位模特为其中一位设计师工作的话，就不能为另外一位设计师工作。对于现在来说，这太荒唐了！
The problem was that these two designers hated each other, so officially if one model was 'walking' for one she could not be 'allowed' to walk for the other. A notion that is totally ridiculous today!
Photos "Sicily" by Ferdinando Scianna for Dolce & Gabbana
如今，对于发布这样荒唐的禁止令在设计师当中已经是不可能的了，除非设计师愿意支付更多的金钱确保模特的专一性。但是，过去与现在还是有不同的，对于嫉妒心过高的大牌设计师，Marpessa和其他的小姐妹们必须得才起来自己的预定卡，以防自己从此之后接不到工作。Azzedine的秀要持续整整一周（以服装支付模特），但是他的秀是最受尊敬的且私密的。相对而言，Claude Montana的秀则曝光率更高，而且他是以现金支付模特的。对于年轻的模特们来说，这是很难的抉择。
Now, it would be impossible for a designer to impose such a ridiculous ban unless he was willing to pay quite a lot of money to insure exclusivity. But, these were different times, Marpessa and the other girls had to hide their bookings to make sure the silly jealousy of the big designers would not block them from working. Azzedine's catwalk lasted a whole week (paid in clothes but essentially free work!) but his cabine was prestigious. Claude Montana was one highly-visible show paid in cash. The choices were difficult for the young models.
东京、纽约或巴黎，那些年间她几乎走遍全球，然后真正给予她一个家的品牌只有Dolce & Gabbana。他们第一次合作的广告大片如今已是传奇。黑白胶片，摄影师Ferdinando Scianna静静地跟随着Marpessa漫步西西里的小城，她只穿着简单的纯色服装。大片一举成功，品牌也从此扎根。这些极具吸引力的照片非常具有代表性和时代性，而且近期已经发表成书。
Between Tokyo, New York and
Paris, for many years she was everywhere but the brand that truly
gave her a home is Dolce & Gabbana. Their first print campaign
is now legendary.Shot in black and white (in the middle of the
colorful 80s) The photographer Ferdinando Scianna quietly followed
Marpessa in a small sicilian town dressed in beautiful simple
monochromatic clothes. The success was immediate and the brand was
launched. Those mesmerizing images are really
iconic and recently became a book.
80年代拥有高能的照片和详细的服装细节的广告大片迅速成为时代模版绝对时尚界的安慰。即使那些不懂时尚的人也知道这些著名的照片。
It was such a relief from the high-energy pictures and details-heavy clothes of the 80s that this campaign instantly became iconic.Even people that know nothing about fashion know those photos.
Scianna拍摄的最有代表性的Marpessa的照片
Iconic image of Marpessa by Scianna.
现在的Marpessa，是两位设计师的亲密好友，而且也是杜嘉班纳品牌的代言人。带着他们Alta Monda系列她飞往全球，从迪拜到纽约，再到巴黎，她给这些文化和展示活动带去了欢笑、魅力和真实。
Today Marpessa, a close friend of both designers is a brand ambassador for Dolce & Gabbana. She travels all over the world with their Alta Moda collection presenting it from Dubaï to New York or Paris bringing her laughter, glamour and realness to these couture events and presentations.
我很喜欢我为Alaia工作期间拍摄她的照片，我记得她的笑容，也记得她是后台里面的“酷女孩”之一。我们是Caroline Spierings的共同好友，在过去的几年里我经常想起她，想着她现在在哪里，她好不好。最近我在Instagram上发现了她，她住在伊比沙岛和意大利，有一个女儿叫Ariel，这个最美丽的小女孩儿的昵称是“MIni－me”。
I loved the images
I took of her when I worked for Alaia, and I remembered her
laughing and being part of the 'cool girls' in the cabin. We were
both friends with Caroline Spierings and I thought about Marpessa
often in the last few years, wondering where she was and if she was
allright. Recently I found her on Instagram and I realised that she
had been busy living in Ibiza and Italy and becoming the mother of
Ariel, a most-beautiful little girl she nicknamed
"Mini-me".
我最尊敬Marpessa的一点是，如今她的美依旧强烈、自然！她之前的模特同事们例如Carla Bruni和Linda Evangelista由于太多的整容手术而看起来就像怪异的外星人一样，而Marpessa则依然做着自己。
What I think I respect most about Marpessa today is how fiercely fabulous and natural she is! In a world where her former colleagues Carla Bruni and Linda Evangelista have become so plastic they look like freaky aliens Marpessa has the balls (and style) to be herself.
她在意大利很出名，很多街头博主认出她的美丽和风格，拍下她作为单身母亲带着自己的孩子旅游时的照片。她在社交网站上最喜欢用的标签是#lovemylife。
She is famous in Italy, photographed by street bloggers that recognise beauty and style when they see it and travels while raising her daughter as a single mom. Her favorite hashtag on instagram is #lovemylife
亲爱的，做得好！
Well done my dear! Well done indeed!
北京798艺术区映画廊，拍摄于2014年10月21日。
Intergallery.cn in Beijing. Shot on October 21st 2014.
Benedicte Bro女士的毁损系列作品之“Marpessa”。
'Marpessa' from the DAMAGED collection of images by Bénédicte Bro at Intergallery.cn
下期“传奇超模”系列，我们再见！
你可以在新浪微博中关注我：Gabrielle-in-北京，或Instagram：Benedictebeijing
A bientôt for another part of the serie "LEGENDARY MODELS".
You can follow me on Instagram: Benedictebeijing or Weibo: Gabrielle-in-北京
第三弹：Marpessa Hennink
SINA FASHION EXCLUSIVE SERIE: FASHION LEGENDS
Part 3: MARPESSA HENNINK
摄影师Ferdinando
Scianna为品牌杜嘉班纳拍摄的名为“西西里”的照片Photos "Sicily" by Ferdinando Scianna for Dolce & Gabbana
“秀场女伯爵”
"The Catwalk Contessa".
Marpessa激发了“西西里幻想”系列（摄影师Ferdinando Scianna于1987年拍摄）的灵感，她娇弱性感的美完美迎合着品牌杜嘉班纳。其广告大牌定义了如今独家版纳的品牌核心。
Marpessa sultry, sexy yet vulnerable beauty was so perfect for Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana that she famously inspired the duo their first sicilian fantasy (shot in 1987 by famed Magnum photographer Ferdinando Scianna). That campaign is to this day the defining essence of the brand.
在家乡荷兰被星探发现从而成为了“平面模特”。Marpessa绿色眼眸和微翘上扬的嘴角让她迅速成为了80年代至90年代初的各大时装杂志如ELLE、Marie Claire和Glamour的封面，但是她的绝对优势还是在秀场T台上。
Discovered as a teenager in her native Holland Marpessa started as a "print model". Her beautiful green eyes and pouty lips were quickly everywhere in ELLE, Marie Claire or Glamour in the 80s and early 90s but her real strenght was the catwalk.
她主导着T台。她因其性感柔美的超女人台步增强了服装的魅力，每年两次的时装周（纽约、米兰、巴黎）几乎就是她的天下。满满的行程安排，设计师和经纪人让她在T台和排练（穿插很多派对）中难以平衡。她为很多大牌走过秀，如Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel, Montana, Alaïa, Ungaro, Calvin Klein,Rocco Barocco等等，当然，绝对少不了Dolce & Gabbana!
On the catwalk she dominated. She was famous for her sensual and feline 'walk' that gave the clothes an extra push and the fashion circuit (New York, Milan, Paris)
Claude Montana和Azzedine
Claude Montana and Azzedine Alaïa were booking her from season to season but she had to be careful and hide her bookings from the coleric Alaia to the moody Montana and vice-versa.
摄影师：Benedicte BroPhoto by Bénédicte Bro at Intergallery.cn
问题是，这两个顶尖的设计师互相看不惯对方，所以通常情况下，一位模特为其中一位设计师工作的话，就不能为另外一位设计师工作。对于现在来说，这太荒唐了！
The problem was that these two designers hated each other, so officially if one model was 'walking' for one she could not be 'allowed' to walk for the other. A notion that is totally ridiculous today!
Photos "Sicily" by Ferdinando Scianna for Dolce & Gabbana
如今，对于发布这样荒唐的禁止令在设计师当中已经是不可能的了，除非设计师愿意支付更多的金钱确保模特的专一性。但是，过去与现在还是有不同的，对于嫉妒心过高的大牌设计师，Marpessa和其他的小姐妹们必须得才起来自己的预定卡，以防自己从此之后接不到工作。Azzedine的秀要持续整整一周（以服装支付模特），但是他的秀是最受尊敬的且私密的。相对而言，Claude Montana的秀则曝光率更高，而且他是以现金支付模特的。对于年轻的模特们来说，这是很难的抉择。
Now, it would be impossible for a designer to impose such a ridiculous ban unless he was willing to pay quite a lot of money to insure exclusivity. But, these were different times, Marpessa and the other girls had to hide their bookings to make sure the silly jealousy of the big designers would not block them from working. Azzedine's catwalk lasted a whole week (paid in clothes but essentially free work!) but his cabine was prestigious. Claude Montana was one highly-visible show paid in cash. The choices were difficult for the young models.
东京、纽约或巴黎，那些年间她几乎走遍全球，然后真正给予她一个家的品牌只有Dolce & Gabbana。他们第一次合作的广告大片如今已是传奇。黑白胶片，摄影师Ferdinando Scianna静静地跟随着Marpessa漫步西西里的小城，她只穿着简单的纯色服装。大片一举成功，品牌也从此扎根。这些极具吸引力的照片非常具有代表性和时代性，而且近期已经发表成书。
80年代拥有高能的照片和详细的服装细节的广告大片迅速成为时代模版绝对时尚界的安慰。即使那些不懂时尚的人也知道这些著名的照片。
It was such a relief from the high-energy pictures and details-heavy clothes of the 80s that this campaign instantly became iconic.Even people that know nothing about fashion know those photos.
Scianna拍摄的最有代表性的Marpessa的照片Iconic image of Marpessa by Scianna.
现在的Marpessa，是两位设计师的亲密好友，而且也是杜嘉班纳品牌的代言人。带着他们Alta Monda系列她飞往全球，从迪拜到纽约，再到巴黎，她给这些文化和展示活动带去了欢笑、魅力和真实。
Today Marpessa, a close friend of both designers is a brand ambassador for Dolce & Gabbana. She travels all over the world with their Alta Moda collection presenting it from Dubaï to New York or Paris bringing her laughter, glamour and realness to these couture events and presentations.
我很喜欢我为Alaia工作期间拍摄她的照片，我记得她的笑容，也记得她是后台里面的“酷女孩”之一。我们是Caroline Spierings的共同好友，在过去的几年里我经常想起她，想着她现在在哪里，她好不好。最近我在Instagram上发现了她，她住在伊比沙岛和意大利，有一个女儿叫Ariel，这个最美丽的小女孩儿的昵称是“MIni－me”。
我最尊敬Marpessa的一点是，如今她的美依旧强烈、自然！她之前的模特同事们例如Carla Bruni和Linda Evangelista由于太多的整容手术而看起来就像怪异的外星人一样，而Marpessa则依然做着自己。
What I think I respect most about Marpessa today is how fiercely fabulous and natural she is! In a world where her former colleagues Carla Bruni and Linda Evangelista have become so plastic they look like freaky aliens Marpessa has the balls (and style) to be herself.
她在意大利很出名，很多街头博主认出她的美丽和风格，拍下她作为单身母亲带着自己的孩子旅游时的照片。她在社交网站上最喜欢用的标签是#lovemylife。
She is famous in Italy, photographed by street bloggers that recognise beauty and style when they see it and travels while raising her daughter as a single mom. Her favorite hashtag on instagram is #lovemylife
亲爱的，做得好！
Well done my dear! Well done indeed!
北京798艺术区映画廊，拍摄于2014年10月21日。Intergallery.cn in Beijing. Shot on October 21st 2014.
Benedicte Bro女士的毁损系列作品之“Marpessa”。'Marpessa' from the DAMAGED collection of images by Bénédicte Bro at Intergallery.cn
下期“传奇超模”系列，我们再见！
你可以在新浪微博中关注我：Gabrielle-in-北京，或Instagram：Benedictebeijing
A bientôt for another part of the serie "LEGENDARY MODELS".
You can follow me on Instagram: Benedictebeijing or Weibo: Gabrielle-in-北京
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