标签:
2019世遗小镇瓦尔帕莱索墙画艺术杂谈 |
分类: 南美与南极 |
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瓦尔帕莱索距智利首都圣地亚哥120多公里,它是个山城,三面环山,面向大海,色彩斑斓的房子依山而建错落有致。2003年瓦尔帕莱索被联合国教科文组织列为世界文化遗产,并被命名为“智利的文化首都”,它以涂鸦艺术闻名于世。
中世纪时,这里只是土著人的渔村,风光秀丽。1536年探险家萨维特拉发现它并命名为“瓦尔帕莱索”,在西语中是“天堂谷”的意思。后来瓦尔帕莱索成为重要的港口城市,连接南美洲和欧洲,是环绕麦哲伦海峡和好望角的中转站。19世纪是它的黄金时代,有不少欧洲人来到这里定居。1914年巴拿马运河通行之后,它的港口重要性下降,经济衰退,富人逐渐迁出,治安每况愈下。
做攻略时发现在瓦尔帕莱索游客被抢很常见,因此很是犹豫。我一弱小的亚洲妇女一看就是游客,肯定会是easy target。最后还是鼓起勇气,还好是心惊胆战的出门,平平安安的回来。我的经验是一定要在安全区域活动,Cerro Concepcion和Cerro Alegre是公认的游客安全区域,Plaza Sotomayer以北的地区不要去,当地人都要结伴而行。如果不确定,就去旅游信息中心拿个地图,让他们画个安全范围。一定要低调,相机不要一直挂在脖子上,拍完照片马上收回去。
在瓦尔帕莱索依山傍海的旧城区,五颜六色的涂鸦,彩色明亮的彩漆,肆无忌惮的倾泻在层层叠叠的建筑上,在一级一级的台阶上,在连绵起伏的山丘上,铺天盖地的缤纷色彩,宛如上帝打翻的调色板。
我最喜欢无意中发现的几条涂鸦小巷,狭窄的只供行人通过,逼仄的空间两侧都是色彩鲜艳的墙画,有种咄咄逼人的强大气场。这里绝对是拐角就能碰见惊喜的地方,墙画主题艺术形式各有不同,给这个曾经颓败的小城增添了无穷的生命力。我曾经在不少城市看过涂鸦,没有一个城市能像瓦尔帕莱索给人以强烈的视觉震撼。诺贝尔文学奖获得者智利诗人聂鲁达把瓦尔帕莱索拟人化“你是那么荒诞、那么疯狂、那么没有理性,你甚至从没有梳理好你的头发,没有穿好你的衣服。”
瓦尔帕莱索是个适合多待几天的地方,我从圣地亚哥一日往返,真是意犹未尽。它是我在智利旅行最喜欢的城市,没有之二。
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拍摄器材:SONY RX100 VII