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举杯葡萄酒 手势有讲究

(2010-12-08 19:01:51)
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杂谈

晚我与朋友罗杰和他的女儿茉莉在新泽西吃了顿饭,茉莉刚刚开始了解有关葡萄酒的知识,她喜欢我已经打开的多数葡萄酒。(“除了低起泡葡萄酒以外”。)

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我带来了2008年的Domaine Nembrets Pouilly-Fuisse,新泽西州最大的好处之一是其自带酒水政策。茉莉说她喜欢这款酒,然后她爸爸指出她拿酒杯的方式不对。他温和地劝告茉莉,要拿着高脚杯的杯脚。茉莉想知道为什么,罗杰回答说,莱蒂会给你解释。

我解释说,有几个原因可以解释为什么最好握着高脚杯的杯脚。首先,如果茉莉拿着酒杯杯身,她就不能完全看到葡萄酒,而酒的外观可以告诉她很多东西。例如,如果葡萄酒色泽苍白,那或许就是新酒,可能是在不锈钢桶,而非在橡木桶里陈年的。如果为深金色,它可能就有点年头了,或是过分氧化了。当然,如果手握着酒杯杯身,她的手温可能会使酒升温。她不希望喝一杯温热的白葡萄酒吧?对吗?

最后我要说,拿着酒杯杯身看起来不太雅观,握着杯脚更优雅。

茉莉总是很注重仪态,她完全明白第三个理由。然后她开始环顾四周,她说那个男人是拿着杯身呢,那个也是。我们三个观望其他用餐者是怎么做的。谁会想到那个衣装得体的男士就像钳子一样把着酒杯,而那对喝着廉价颂维翁布朗克(Sauvignon Blanc)的夫妇却真知道怎么拿酒杯呢?我们花了几分钟时间享受这点小乐趣,然后就回头享用自己的葡萄酒了。

Lettie Teague

I had dinner with my friend Roger and his daughter Molly in New Jersey last night. Molly is just beginning to learn about wine and likes most of the bottles I've opened ('except the fizzy kind').

I'd brought along a 2008 Domaine Nembrets Pouilly-Fuisse - one of best things about the Garden State is its BYO policy. Molly declared that she liked it. Then her father pointed out she was holding the glass wrong. 'Hold it by the stem not the bowl,' he gently admonished Molly. 'Why?' Molly wanted to know. 'Lettie will explain,' Roger replied.

I explained that there were several reasons that the stem was preferable. First of all, if Molly gripped the bowl she couldn't see the wine properly - and its appearance would tell her a lot. For example, if the wine was a pale white, it was probably young and likely aged in stainless steel and not oak. If it was deep gold, it was likely a bit old - or oxidized. And of course, if Molly held the wine bowl in her hand, she risked warming it up. She didn't want to drink a warm white, did she?

Finally, I said, holding the glass by the bowl just didn't look very nice. It's much more elegant to hold it by the stem.

Molly, who is always very well-turned out, could appreciate this third rationale. Then she began looking around. 'That man is holding his glass by the bowl,' she pointed out. 'And so is that other guy.' The three of us waited to see what other diners would do. Who would have guessed the proper-looking man would be a glass-gripper? Or that the couple with the cheap Sauvignon Blanc actually knew what to do? It made for a good few minutes of sport - and then we went back to the wine in our glasses.

Lettie Teague

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