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Dress like Sherlock and Watson!

(2010-10-20 15:51:56)
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分类: Sherlock

原文地址:http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/articles/2010-09/30/gq-style-news-dress-like-sherlock-holmes-and-dr-watson

Dress like Sherlock and Watson!

像Sherlock和Watson那样穿着!

By Andy Morris

He may have a disembodied head in his fridge and eyeballs in his microwave, but what really impressed us with Benedict Cumberbatch's Sherlock was the contents of his wardrobe. We've already told you where costume designer Sarah Arthur got his distinctive coat from - now GQ.com reveals further details of all the other costumes from the show and more on the clothing of everyone's favourite consulting detective.

他可能在他的冰箱里有一颗空洞的人头,微波炉里有一对眼球,但是Benedict Cumberbatch所诠释的Sherlock真正让我们印象深刻的是他的那些行头。我们已经告诉你服装设计师Sarah Arthur 是从哪里获得这些与众不同的衣服了--现在GQ.com揭示了在这场表演中其它衣服的细节和每个人最爱的咨询侦探的衣着的更多内容。

GQ: Have you been surprised by the reaction to Sherlock's wardrobe?
Sarah Arthur: I gather from lots of people who have texted me that it's been very, very popular. People seem to have liked the look of the costumes, which is really good obviously!

CQ:你对于Sherlock的行头所激起的反应感到惊讶吗?

SA:我被短信包围了,许多人发短信说那些衣服非常的流行。人们似乎已经喜欢上了衣服的式样,那确实是显而易见的出色。

Was it a fun project to work on?
It was hard! The weather conditions were extremely difficult in January. Fittings were difficult to do because people were snowed in. The actors were very cold, but what was lovely was that they were all delightful to work with. Benedict, Martin, Rupert, Una - they were all lovely. That makes life much easier.

这是一个让人工作起来感到有趣的项目吗?

它困难重重!一月份的天气状况极端的困难。设备很难工作因为人们被大雪困住了。演员们非常冷,但是可爱的是他们都非常高兴能够在一起共事。Benedict, Martin, Rupert, Una --他们都非常的可爱。这使得一切都容易多了。

Did Benedict have any say in what his character would wear?
I always want actors to have an input. There's no point me taking somebody and saying "Just put that on". He's quite lithe, Benedict - the clothes needed to suit him, be appropriate to the character and he needed to be comfortable. I found these Spencer Hart suits which were classic, beautifully cut, the cloth was fabulous and when he put it on he thought it was perfect. It was actually the first thing he tried on! They really did work well -  the producers and director were thrilled. Benedict loved his clothes but a lot of his suits were wrecked because he insisted on doing his own stunts. Because the suit cloth was so fine, they took a bashing. We had to buy three complete suits which was very expensive, as well as a separate jacket.

Benedict有没有说过他所扮演的角色应该怎么穿着?

我总是希望演员可以有自己的想法。如果我只是随便找一个人然后说“把这个穿上”那就完全没意义了。Benedict,他的柔韧度非常好【我觉得可能是夸BC身材好】,所以衣服需要很贴合他,要适合角色而且他也要感到舒服。我找到这些既传统又有着漂亮剪裁的Spencer Hart 西装,这衣服真是好极了,当他穿上后他觉得简直就是完美。实际上这是他试的第一件!他们的工作都做得非常好--制片和导演都非常兴奋。Benedict喜欢他的衣服,不过他的许多西装都破损了,因为他坚持要做他独有的绝技。因为西装很精细,而他们又猛击了它。我们不得不买了三件非常昂贵的完整的西装,以及一件单独的夹克。

Were all the shirts Dolce & Gabbana?
I did have a couple of Spencer Hart shirts, but they were mostly from the mainline Dolce collection. Again, Benedict is very slim - we needed that silhouette, so that if he was sitting in the flat, I didn't want loads of fabric bulging out. Those Dolce shirts just suited his body - I didn't want anything too unusual or flamboyant. They were classic with a little lilac pinstripe. Some of the Spencer Hart shirts had a round collar so I tried it on Benedict but it was pushing the point, so I put that on Moriarty, because it was slightly period.

所有的衬衫都是Dolce & Gabbana的吗?

我的确有两件 Spencer Hart 的衬衫,但是它们多半是来自主线Dolce的收藏。并且,Benedict非常的苗条--我们需要那样的轮廓,所以如果当他坐在公寓里的时候,我不希望衣料会大量的鼓出。【意思就是不想有太多的褶吧】那些Dolce的衬衫非常的适合他的身材--我不希望任何衣服看起来非主流或过于艳丽。这些很传统的衣服有着细小的淡紫色细条纹。一些 Spencer Hart 的衬衫有着圆领,所以我试图想让Benedict试试,不过不太合适,所以我让Moriarty穿上了,因为这略略带着时代性。

Where was Moriarty's suit from?
His suit was Vivienne Westwood. Westwood can be very extreme but this wasn't. Originally I think in the script it was another make, but the suit was just perfect for him and the colour was different and unusual. I teamed it with a Spencer Hart round collar shirt and an Alexander McQueen tie with skulls on it. It just worked - because it had a slightly sinister feel.

Moriarty的西装是从哪来的?

他的西装是Vivienne Westwood。Westwood可以是很极端的,不过在这里并不是。最初在剧本里我设想有另外的制作,但是这件西装实在是很适合他,并且颜色也很与众不同。我将它同一件Spencer Hart圆领衬衫搭配起来,配有一条带有骷髅头的Alexander McQueen领带。就这样,因为它有一种轻微的阴暗的感觉。

Where did you get Sherlock's shoes?
The original pair were Yves Saint Laurent - they took a bit of a hit running the streets of London! Because when you have narrow trousers and he's got quite big feet, you have to be careful. I had them soled with a thicker sole and because Benedict is quite tall and Martin's shorter, we went for a very small heel for Sherlock. We wanted a longish line but we didn't want pointed toes. I doubled the YSL shoes with Poste which were a damn sight cheaper. They were great and very similar. I picked up a third pair from TK Maxx. They all looked essentially the same. We filmed in this underground carpark which was full of water and I was just cringing about his shoes.

你从哪弄到Sherlock的鞋的?

最初的一双是Yves Saint Laurent--他们在伦敦街道上有着轰动一时的奔跑!因为当你有着一条窄窄的裤子而他有着一双大脚的时候,你就得注意了。我给他们的鞋配上了厚底,因为Benedict比较高而Martin比较矮,在给Shelock的鞋子上我们尽力想达到一个非常小的脚后跟。【这跟BC和MF的身高有神马关系?】我们想要一个稍长点的线型但我们不想做成尖头的。我通过邮局弄了两双YSL的鞋,那样能稍微便宜点儿。他们非常棒而且很相似。第三双是通过TK Maxx得到的。他们从本质上看起来是一样的。我们是在一个到处是水的地下停车场拍摄的,我一直对他的鞋子夸个不停。

What did you think of Guy Ritchie's Sherlock Holmes?
Excellent - I liked it. You've got your typical period costumes - I think Jenny Beaven did them really well. They handled hats well because hats are unpopular with cameramen of course because they cast shadows. Obviously with our version it was very much ultra-modern, given all the technology in the story lines.

你对Guy导的Sherlock Holmes有什么看法?

非常好--我喜欢!你们有着具有代表性的那个时期的服装--我想Jenny Beaven 干得漂亮。他们把帽子处理得很好,因为帽子对于摄影师来说显然很不受欢迎因为帽子会有投影。显然我们的版本是非常超现代化的,在故事情节上投入了所有的技术。

Where did you actually find the much talked-about coat?
The coat was actually a couple of years old. What happened is that another chap did the pilot and he found that coat. When I took the project on, I inherited all those original costumes from the pilot. It was the only thing I kept. It was such a lovely coat - a classic. We had three of them because we obviously do stunts and need doubles. It is a lovely coat - really perfect for Benedict.  He loved it, I loved it and everyone else seemed to.

事实上你是从哪弄来这些大热外套的?

这件外套实际上已经有些年头了。其实是一个制作试播集的小伙子发现这件外套的。当我接管这个项目时,我也接收了试播集里所有原有的服装。这是我唯一保留的一件。这是一件非常可爱的外套--非常传统。我们有三件一样的,因为我们会有一些特技镜头所以需要一些复制品。这是一件可爱的外套--非常适合Benedict。他很喜欢,我也喜欢,并且所有人好像都是这么想的。【服装师真的太偏爱BC了......】

Where did Watson's coat come from?
The black jacket is from Haversack. I got a lot of clothes for both Benedict and Martin from Liberty. Liberty had some great stuff - I was very impressed. Whoever their buyer is, they're just perfect. I wasn't overly keen on Watson's original coat from the pilot - but [the character] had just come out of the army so I knew where they were coming from. I wanted to keep him old school, with check shirts, but make it a little bit more interesting. Some of the knitwear I used was modern stuff, not old fashioned. I didn't want it to ever start looking like a fashion show - they were supposed to be able to wear these clothes to accentuate their character.

Watson的外套又是从哪来的呢?

这件黑色夹克是Haversack的。我从Liberty【没猜错的话应该是个服装杂志】上找到了许多Benedict和Martin的服装。Liberty有着一些极好的东西--让我印象非常深刻。无论它们的购买者是谁,它们都是那么的完美。我不是很喜欢试播集里Watson原有的那件外套--但是这个角色刚刚从军队出来所以我知道他们是从哪儿来的。我希望能够用仔细挑选出的衬衫让他保持一种守旧的气质,但是也要有一点儿趣味性。我所使用的一些毛衣是现代款,并不是旧款式的。我也不希望它看起来像是一场时装表演--他们应该穿这些衣服去强调出他们的人物。

Martin Freeman wears that cable-knit jumper very well. Where did you get it from?
I knew you were going ask that! It was from a little modern up-to-date shop off Carnaby Street - I cannot remember the name. It was another little find - it had that homely, slightly army-ish feel. Initially with Martin, we went to a big high street department store. I'd never met him before and didn't realise that Martin himself was very stylish - very subtle, but he wears clothes so well. As soon as he walked in the door, I knew we were in the wrong place. He needed to be old school, so he had classic Loake boots. Martin was marvellous - he said "Uniqlo jeans really suit me". When you have the trust of the actor, they'll help you to find the best possible look.

Martin Freeman穿的那件粗线针织套头毛衣好极了。你是从哪弄到的?

我就知道你会问这个!这是来自于卡尔纳比街外的一家最新的时装小店--我记不清它的名字了。这是另一个小发现--它有着家庭气息,又略带着一点军队的感觉。【果然和潮男很匹配!】最初和Martin一起,我们去了一家很大的主要街道的百货公司。我之前没有见过他而且从未发现Martin本身是那么的时髦【所以叫潮男,去楼下小店打瓶酱油都要打扮半天】,他很敏锐,很会穿衣服。当他走进大门时,我知道我们来错地方了。他需要穿得很保守,所以他穿着传统的Loake靴子。Martin非常的不可思议,他说:“优衣库的牛仔裤很适合我。”。【我想SHI...因为日本人设计的裤子裤腿比较短么?】当你信任一个演员时,他们会帮助你找到最好的样子。【所以后来穿的就是优衣库的牛仔裤么...】

Where did Sherlock's dressing gown come from?
From Harrods. Believe me, budget was very tight and the one I wanted was thousands but I couldn't afford it. I had to find a similar alternative - there is always compromise on these productions. Very pleased with it, but if money had been no object, I had my eye on a lovely cashmere striped one. But when you've got budgets to stick by, you have to control yourself a bit.

Sherlock的晨衣是从哪来的?

Harrods的。相信我,预算很紧张,这件衣服我想要的那件需要数千英镑但是我付不起。我只好找了件类似的代替--在制作上总会需要些妥协。这件我很满意,不过如果钱不是问题的话,我看上了一件非常可爱的羊绒带条纹的。不过当你需要控制预算的话,你也只能稍稍克制了。

Where did Sherlock's scarf come from?
It was an old Paul Smith. Quite a fine knit - Benedict put it on so naturally and it worked every time. It was interesting because there were so many action scenes I needed double of everything, but the one thing I didn't have a double of was that scarf. I was terrified that something would happen and we'd lose it! Things in the business can be so chaotic - particularly when it gets dark early and people drop things from trailers! That scarf was the bane of my life! If I did another series, I wouldn't use that scarf again - I'd definitely do something new!

Sherlock的围巾的出处是哪儿呢?

这是一条旧的Paul Smith的围巾。非常好的一款针织物--Benedict戴上是如此的自然以致于几乎总是在戴着。这很有趣,因为许多动作场景中我都需要准备一切物品的复制品,但是唯一一件我不需要复制品的就是这条围巾。我非常害怕会发生一些事会让我们把它弄丢了!商业上的事情会很混乱----特别是当天很早就黑了人们从拖车上丢东西的时候!那条围巾简直就是我生命的痛苦之源!如果我制作另一季,我不会再用这条围巾--我当然会做些新鲜的事情!

Given how big tweed is this year, were you ever tempted?
Not really - the only one I would have possibly put tweed on was Martin, but that seemed almost too obvious. We did have a tweed jacket but we didn't go there - we stuck with what we were doing.

考虑到今年呢绒很流行,你有过兴趣吗?

不完全是--唯一一件我可能尝试的是给Martin穿的,但那看来太平淡无奇了。我们的确有一件呢绒的夹克不过我们没去那儿--我们被迫接受我们以前所做的事情。

Where did you find Sherlock's gloves?
They were from Paul Smith, two-tone black and grey. Benedict said to me one day "Something is happening to my gloves Sarah, they've gone a funny colour!" I said they were always like that! They took a hammering too.

你从哪里找到Sherlock的手套的?

它们来自于Paul Smith,黑色和灰色两种颜色的。有一天Benedict对我说:“我的手套Sarah上发生了一些事,它们有着一种有趣的颜色!”【也许是说手套颜色会变,但是为神马手套要和Sarah联系起来?!】我说它们一直就那样!它们同样也遭受了捶击。

We had a few comments from Twitter about the expense of Sherlock's wardrobe. Are there more affordable options?
There always are affordable ways! I did the first series of Footballers Wives when no one knew what it was. Everything had to be put together - we had to do high fashion on peanuts. What I do is mix and match. I go to TK Maxx where you can pick up very high quality, interesting menswear. It's not designer. There will have been in the costumes bits and pieces that came from the high street. Unfortunately Martin's jacket will be expensive because of the detailing. But you will find similar things. And I have no doubt that you will find a coat similar to Benedict's. It will be copied - somewhere like Zara will definitely have picked it up. It's all very military now, so there's bound to be something similar.

我们在推特上有一些关于Sherlock服装费用的评论。有没有一些能负担得起的选择?

总有一些能负担得起的方法!我在制作Footballers Wives 第一季的时候没人知道它是什么。所有事都要放在一起做--我们必须在小人物身上制作昂贵高雅的流行款式。我所做的就是混合搭配。我去了TK Maxx ,在那里你可以找到高品质的、有趣的男装。这不是由设计师专门设计的。在服装里的零碎东西都是来自于商业大街。不幸的是Martin的夹克非常昂贵,因为它的细节设计。但是你可以找到一些类似的。而且我毫不怀疑你可以找到一件衣服和Benedict的非常相像。这件衣服被复制了--一些地方比如Zara肯定会推出的。现在非常的军事化,所以肯定会有一些类似的。【神啊,谁来告诉我这句什么意思?】

Which other TV characters dress particularly well?
God, now you're asking! Matt Smith - I like the tweed and bow ties. But I can't say I've seen anything of late that I've thought was that fantastic.

哪些其他的电视角色穿着非常不错?

God,瞧你问的!Matt Smith--我喜欢呢绒衣服还有领结。但我不能说最近我看到了一些我觉得是非常好的。

What are you working on next?
I have just done Toast, a project with Helena Bonham Carter and Ken Stott, from the Nigel Slater book - it was great fun, but that was period. I did a lot of designs for that and made suits for him (because he had to get fat) and dresses for her. That is coming out in December. Very hard work, but they're lovely jobs to do when people are nice.

下一步你的工作是什么?

我刚完成Toast,这是由Helena Bonham Carter 和Ken Stott制作的,来自于 Nigel Slater 的著作--非常有趣,不过具有时代性。我为之做了许多设计,为他做了西装(因为他发胖了),并且还要为她打扮。十二月的时候将会播映。非常辛苦的工作,不过当同事都特别好的时候这些是非常令人愉悦的工作。

 What are your hopes for the second series of Sherlock?
I am not sure whether I am doing it at the moment. One, I have not been asked yet, and two, I do have plans for later in the year. I can't really answer that as it would be a bit presumptuous of me - they may not want me back! I thoroughly enjoyed it. The only thing with a second series is that because they're obviously very happy with their style, it  halves the work! It's lovely to do the first series of anything because you can put your own stamp on it, but whoever does the second series would continue along the established lines, because everyone seemed to have liked it. I don't know what you would do - Martin could have a new jacket maybe!

你对Sherlock第二季的期望是什么?

目前我还不确定我是否会继续参与。首先,我还没问过,其次,我已经为今年稍晚一些时候订计划了。我没法回答这个因为对我来说有点儿冒昧--他们可能根本不希望我回去!我彻彻底底的喜欢这部剧。那是第二季唯一的一件事因为他们显然因为他们的风格而非常高兴,这把工作平分了!【没看懂这句】做第一季的任何事情都非常令人愉快是因为你可以在上面打上你自己的印记,但是无论是谁在做第二季的时候就需要继续沿着已经确定的路线了,因为所有人好像都喜欢这样。我不知道你会怎么做--Martin可能本来也可以有一件新的夹克!

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