http://s5/mw600/002gZ9kbzy6LP7PDsZ694&690

http://s4/mw600/002gZ9kbzy6LPcvNzzl43&690

http://s10/mw600/002gZ9kbzy6LPcwt1Ut89&690

 

st14初夏

http://s12/mw600/002TAt5xgy6J7I2Cscz2b&690

http://s2/mw600/002TAt5xgy6J7LI3fGNa1&690

http://s4/mw600/002TAt5xgy6J7LIoMbpe3&690

http://s12/mw600/002TAt5xgy6J7I35U0jbb&690

http://s14/mw600/002TAt5xgy6J7L0KgwZ2d&690

http://s5/mw600/002TAt5xgy6J7GtGxMgb4&690

 

http://s7/mw600/002TAt5xgy6J7KY4xBIc6&690

la14.6

http://s9/mw600/001DBQz2zy6JssESJYI38&690

http://s8/mw600/001DBQz2zy6JsthPKir87&690

http://s4/mw600/001DBQz2zy6Jsto59aX03&690

http://s14/mw600/001DBQz2zy6JssHD0ol5d&690

http://s7/mw600/001DBQz2zy6Jstt3rZIf6&690

http://s8/mw600/001DBQz2zy6JsttuGb517&690

http://s2/mw600/001DBQz2zy6JssHKvlvf1&690

http://s5/mw600/001DBQz2zy6JstsWDdyb4&690

http://s1/mw600/001DBQz2zy6JsttnBiE10&690

http://s2/mw600/001DBQz2zy6JstsMpbz51&690

http://s7/mw600/001DBQz2zy6JssLpJwaa6&690

http://s9/mw600/001DBQz2zy6JstyZQIUc8&690

http://s9/mw600/001DBQz2zy6JssREeJG58&690

http://s9/mw600/001DBQz2zy6JstHMkUE18&690

 

la13.9

http://s7/mw600/a527f923tx6C0zRHniS86&690

http://s8/mw600/a527f923tx6C0AuKhW747&690

http://s14/mw600/a527f923tx6C0zHM2V7ad&690

http://s12/mw600/a527f923gx6C0DUO3IDeb&690

http://s6/mw600/a527f923gx6C0DVEpfv95&690

http://s14/mw600/a527f923tx6C0zHnYD3fd&690

http://s14/mw600/a527f923gx6C0DYuW8ldd&690

 st05盛夏

http://s15/mw600/6ab769c4td8bd43c0707e&690

http://s9/mw600/6ab769c4td8bd66dae9f8&690

 

 

http://s2/mw600/0025oT1Igy6HDopMLxn21&690

st09盛夏

http://s6/mw600/6ab769c4td9e781d1aea5&690

http://s6/mw600/6ab769c4td9e79ebd6685&690

http://s4/mw600/6ab769c4td9e78d1b9943&690

http://s10/mw600/6ab769c4td9e78d36b499&690

http://s9/mw600/6ab769c4td9e7a138dec8&690

 

 

st12盛夏

 

http://s8/mw600/63db5495xc37e0a4136d7&690

http://s13/mw600/63db5495xc37e67014f6c&690

http://s4/mw600/63db5495xc37e066a7923&690

http://s4/mw600/63db5495xc37e9d3eb8e3&690

 

14.5

 

  

http://s12/mw600/001DBQz2zy6ItPsu6xBeb&690

http://s9/mw600/001DBQz2zy6ItQeB1BSa8&690

http://s7/mw600/001DBQz2zy6ItPE7yS2c6&690

http://s16/mw600/001DBQz2zy6ItQgtedV6f&690

 

 

2013.6

http://s9/mw600/b235db37gdd1ce8861b68&690

 

 

http://s16/mw600/b235db37gdd1d34169cdf&690

 

http://s13/mw600/b235db37gdd1cff1f5d9c&690

http://s2/mw600/b235db37g7c82eb9cc441&690

 

http://s15/mw600/7c2c09dfte01ea232f1de&690

 

http://s11/mw600/001DBQz2zy6ItPDKWtcda&690

http://s5/mw600/001DBQz2zy6ItPZfaW874&690

http://s7/mw600/001DBQz2zy6ItPDZ1Xgc6&690

http://s6/mw600/001DBQz2zy6ItPZxsK945&690

 

 

 

 

lady buotique 2013年8月

  

http://s14/mw600/0034hwvygy6IpOL07Br1d&690

http://s4/mw600/597e0174tx6BvDtjNCPc3&690

 

 2014.4

 

http://s5/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgfudlad4&690

http://s10/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgOZxUte9&690

http://s9/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgh31lSc8&690

http://s6/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgPA5OBe5&690

 

http://img1.zazhimi.net/aazzmpic/1305/lady-13-05/037.jpg

http://img1.zazhimi.net/aazzmpic/1305/lady-13-05/167.jpg

 

http://img1.zazhimi.net/aazzmpic/1305/lady-13-05/168.jpg

 

 

http://img1.zazhimi.net/aazzmpic/1305/lady-13-05/232.jpg

http://img1.zazhimi.net/aazzmpic/1303/lady-13-03/047.jpg

http://img1.zazhimi.net/aazzmpic/1303/lady-13-03/237.jpg

 

http://img1.zazhimi.net/aazzmpic/1303/lady-13-03/033.jpg

http://img1.zazhimi.net/aazzmpic/1303/lady-13-03/219.jpg

 

http://img1.zazhimi.net/aazzmpic/1303/lady-13-03/201.jpg

http://img1.zazhimi.net/aazzmpic/1303/lady-13-03/023.jpg

http://s6/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgcFGPb05&690

http://s9/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgrpuly18&690

 

http://s14/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgje6GFad&690

 

http://s3/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgrdCeed2&690

 

 

http://s7/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgcIrCSb6&690

http://s2/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgtm54Re1&690

http://s3/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgDGL0m72&690

 

http://s2/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgjbjhve1&690

http://s4/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgDJqRZ03&690

http://s4/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgFsk3V73&690

http://s10/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgjuSs969&690

http://s10/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgFxNpL09&690

http://s1/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgHzCAo80&690

http://s8/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgjk2Wz47&690

 

http://s15/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgHHRNAae&690

http://s7/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgo5iw6e6&690

http://s1/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgo2mxa50&690

 

http://s2/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgdgee571&690

http://s16/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgdiWyX1f&690

http://s3/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgJG8AG02&690

http://s8/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgdln3pd7&690

 

http://s9/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgeO3ckd8&690

http://s8/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgJS0K3c7&690

 

http://s16/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgeU6T50f&690

http://s11/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgKb4Vkfa&690

 

http://s7/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgfd5S636&690

http://s2/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgMRZeh41&690

 

http://s8/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgfivll87&690

http://s14/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgN30kd5d&690

 

http://s4/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgflnH593&690

http://s10/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgN7H2989&690

 

 

http://s6/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgfrcpfe5&690

http://s16/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgNa6750f&690

 

http://s1/mw600/001EduAfzy6HQgRQtK8d0&690

 

http://s13/mw600/001DBQz2ty6GBVhwRfmbc&690

http://s11/mw600/0023rB0Ugy6EMykWTl82a&690

http://s4/mw600/001DBQz2ty6GBVkiO8Hb3&690

http://s11/mw600/001DBQz2ty6GBUktWl49a&690

http://s6/mw600/70f469c3tb974bf8a9455&690

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://s13/mw600/aaa1498axcd19ef77b4bc&690

http://s5/mw600/973b59dagce715d171b94&690

http://s12/mw600/002SI16Fty6DIHiKyMP2b&690

http://s14/mw600/002SI16Fty6DIHiF3qZ8d&690

http://img.bianzhirensheng.com/forum/Mon_0606/200_66951_9ac7679b0462033.jpg

http://s15/mw600/54b31bc8tc61a56b02a9e&690

磨毛的格子布，手感好，做衬衣的最佳选择

 

http://s3/mw600/001WQIAsgy6E2kdQJPk52&690

日本文化服装学院前后出了两版文化式原型，一版比一版进步。
但用惯了旧版的，忽然跳到新版，肯定不适应，脑子还是继续用旧版的思路来思考。
所以在此，我把旧版的和新版的做一下比较，并记录下。
在此使用的人体净尺寸依旧是：胸围84  腰围68   臀围90   背长38  （中国版的标准码）
将原型缝制成成衣后的松量先对比说明一下：
文化式原型旧版：           成衣胸围93.26     松量9.26    成衣腰围72    松量4
文化式原型成人女子用： 成衣胸围92.22     松量8.22    成衣腰围74    松量6
 
第一：先从原型制图开始对比
1、文化式旧版的基础线胸围是1/2+5  。
侧缝是胸围线的1/2处，胸线前片后片相等。这其实不符合人体本身的结构。
前胸有乳凸量，后背没有。有凸量的必定比没凸量的长，这是常识。
所以从水平线上看，前胸线必定应该比后胸线长。
2、腰省的位置过于单一，无法诠释复杂的人体结构。

http://s12/mw600/bd5ae96cgdda880b32cbb&690

1、成人女子用的基础线胸围是1/2胸围+6，完成后胸部水平线的前片比后片长出1.43cm。
2、腰省位置和收进量，更符合人体结构。
此原型将人体胸位水平线和腰位水平线各个位置相差的量，都按照人体结构，严格从各个垂直面上收进。
更符合人体自然曲线，更合理。

http://s13/mw600/bd5ae96cgdda881243acc&690

第二：将两组原型重叠起来看。
在此，我用了五种重叠对比的方式。新旧版原型究竟有何差别，在这五张图中一目了然，不需多言了。
新版除了特别强调了女人身体侧的倾斜面的凹凸之处与前面后面不同之外。
一个很大很大的不同，就是前片的胸凸量很大，比旧版长了1.45。
成人女子用原型穿在人台上，前中还是比腰线长1.45。
然后向侧缝处缓缓抬升，至侧缝，原型腰线就正好在人台腰线上了。

http://s6/mw600/bd5ae96cgdda88152b955&690

http://s7/mw600/bd5ae96cgdda88179b156&690

http://s6/mw600/bd5ae96cgdda881c08435&690

http://s7/mw600/bd5ae96cg7c90d9ce6c86&690

第三：新版袖子的制图方法比旧版更合理一些，非常清晰。

 将袖子直接放在衣身的袖隆上画，效果直观许多。

http://s3/mw600/90102bb1gc23227a7f3d2&690

http://s8/mw600/90102bb1gc2322802e0b7&690

http://s12/mw600/90102bb1gc2324f59003b&690

http://s13/mw600/90102bb1gc2324fd45ffc&690

http://s15/mw600/90102bb1gc23256cc0dfe&690

http://s5/mw600/90102bb1gc232573dd0d4&690

http://s4/mw600/90102bb1gc2325e55c143&690

http://s5/mw600/90102bb1gc2325ed1c674&690

http://s5/mw600/90102bb1gc232618f8df4&690

http://s7/mw600/90102bb1gc232620c1ed6&690

http://s16/mw600/90102bb1g79d1d791f3cf&690

http://s12/mw600/90102bb1gc2326c22f76b&690

http://s4/mw600/90102bb1gc232780f2943&690

http://s11/mw600/90102bb1gc232788b1e0a&690

http://s3/mw600/90102bb1gc2327b497702&690

http://s10/mw600/90102bb1gc2327bc69c19&690

http://s5/mw600/90102bb1gc23299765644&690

http://s9/mw600/90102bb1gc23299eca4f8&690

http://s15/mw600/90102bb1gc232ce92f68e&690

http://s10/mw600/90102bb1gc232ce40ad99&690

http://s13/mw600/90102bb1gc232d13f5a7c&690

http://s16/mw600/90102bb1gc232d0f0ac0f&690

http://s9/mw600/90102bb1gc232dfcffea8&690

http://s3/mw600/90102bb1gc232e02346c2&690

http://s4/mw600/0031wflxzy6H5psVfOP23&690

 

 

http://s16/mw600/63db5495gc5f3b37aba1f&690

http://s14/mw600/63db5495gc5f3d33e033d&690

 

http://bbs.pop136.com/data/attachment/forum/day_091029/0910291318db1e21aa1eeb9a5c.jpg

http://bbs.pop136.com/data/attachment/forum/day_091029/09102913185aaa4b60448f46c6.jpg

 

http://s15/mw600/597e0174tx6BvHqO7WS4e&690

http://s1/mw600/597e0174tx6BvIVJPUY80&690

http://s7/mw600/597e0174tx6BvENbrHEf6&690

 

http://s5/mw600/9f480c69gd03ed3cec5e4&690

 

http://s10/mw600/63db5495xc37df555f929&690

http://s12/mw600/63db5495xc37e46eeaddb&690

 

http://s8/mw600/597e0174tx6BvH9aksf47&690

1a10.2

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/22/86/215_370072_9d13a15b888b515.jpg.thumb.jpg

st13

http://s3/mw600/9f480c69gx6BHfHV9RM72&690

http://s10/mw600/9f480c69gx6BHh7BTHHd9&690

 

 

la13.10

 

http://s16/mw600/a527f923gx6DjJxwnjpbf&690

http://s9/mw600/a527f923tx6DjMEibNK68&690

 

la12.3

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/24/245/215_574265_b0906ee3bf8444c.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/24/246/215_574265_07055e7b06d8c2e.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/24/246/215_574265_d22533e0a527e7d.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/24/246/215_574265_69d7beef8683168.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/24/246/215_574265_88ceb3000d9ff76.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/24/247/215_574265_3caef73ada71652.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/24/246/215_574265_ca9f87d36a97412.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/24/247/215_574265_5bad7a913b4487c.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://s6/mw600/70f469c3tb974bf8a9455&690

la10.7

http://s16/mw600/63db5495gc5289199f7af&690

http://s4/mw600/63db5495gc528c7ed0623&690

http://s14/mw600/63db5495gc528920e55ad&690

http://s8/mw600/63db5495gc528c8a11b37&690

http://s12/mw600/63db5495gc528a2f0baab&690

http://s2/mw600/63db5495gc528a2cc2691&690

http://s2/mw600/63db5495gc528ffdc2501&690

http://s6/mw600/63db5495gc528fff08405&690

http://s1/mw600/63db5495gc528a331e290&690

http://s12/mw600/63db5495gc5290031f60b&690

http://s15/mw600/63db5495gc528ab4c2fee&690

http://s8/mw600/63db5495gc52900564807&690

http://s16/mw600/63db5495gc528b39704cf&690

http://s13/mw600/63db5495gc528b3bc526c&690

 

la10.8

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/16/56/215_289825_12f55ee89dc033d.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/16/57/215_289825_87b8c8a73fa9534.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/16/56/215_289825_725907e5dc15f2f.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/16/57/215_289825_600bd1f426bdd0c.jpg.thumb.jpg

 

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/16/56/215_289825_463cb18b6767943.jpg.thumb.jpg

 

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/16/57/215_289825_c57ecb0af84cc2f.jpg.thumb.jpg

 

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/16/56/215_289825_f35fb2b4cd76dc9.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/16/56/215_289825_5e0553060733ce2.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/16/57/215_289825_e0779bc96c8f37b.jpg.thumb.jpg

la10.6

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/15/95/215_399853_558282812141fef.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/15/96/215_399853_4b0f68373e2a468.jpg.thumb.jpg

http://t1.6diy.com/data/attachment/orum_thumb/pw/15/96/215_399853_038f3d2fb20ec76.jpg.thumb.jpg

st09盛夏

http://s8/mw600/6ab769c4td9e78944fca7&690

http://s1/mw600/6ab769c4td9e79ddb5190&690

 

sl