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(2013-06-22 20:47:13)


分类: travel

Kosice diary

Lovely town. Sleepy. Great central square. Or main street. Everybody out there on Friday night, who is not in the other beer gardens. Or begging. First rain-free night in ages, maybe. Rivers all full. Still chilly, just a little. Blankets on the seats outside. Great cathedral, we haven't been inside yet. They had a great mass, with TV. People standing on the steps outside, and kneeling. Wonder how it was under Socialism. Much sleepier? Sleep of reason breeds ... how does that go? What reason? Goya. Modernism, Kosice Modernism. An exhibition advertised around town, or a book, or an event. In Slovak, so I'm not sure. Tourism office doesn't know what they're doing. Didn't even tell us about a three day event at the Hungarian reformed church, which had concerts back to back all day- and they were free too!

The railway station was a bit of a disaster as well: falling apart, and no tourist information office, and no city maps for sale, let alone for free. Yes, maps of the historical center were available for free in the tourist office in town- but the only way to get there from the railway station was to photograph the fixed map on my tablet computer and then use that.

Food was decent and service competent at the busy main street. High-priced in the evening, for the region- not far from Ukraine, Poland, eastern Hungary, Romania. Most people just buy a drink.

Booking accommodation was not helped by the official " culture capital" website, either. We ended up at K2, which was clean but noisy (on Friday night), just because they deigned to pick up the phone and we could book with them. In a mixture of languages, but that was ok. Osoba means person, not room.

But: dry Tokaj wine, a specialty of the region, was unavailable in two liquor shops and a posh wine bar down town. Only sweet. Maybe the tourism office had it, but I was too angry at the incompetence of the poor girl to have a look. And the place closed very early on a Saturday, as well.

The tourist office just did not have a single list of cultural events on a day by day basis, either in print or online. A brochure with an English title turned out to be written in Polish. Things standing around town announcing events were in Slovak only. We found the great music at the hungarian reformed church entirely by accident. Medieval tunes in the church, very lively. Lovely choir. Medieval and modern instruments with lots of singing on the stage in the garden behind. And that was actually an international event, with people coming specially from as far as Debrecen.

The city does not seem to embrace and showcase its multi-ethnic heritage. Ok, it is there. Tourists have to find out themselves, as we did. Not mentioning this big Hungarian event at the tourist office was a case in point. "Gipsy" music also was nowhere on the menu. But Roma/Sinti/Lovara(?) beggars were plentiful. Just a question: in the building efforts before this year, were Roma workers given some of the digging jobs? Permit an outsider to doubt it, especially after seeing some of them living in ruined houses next to the railway track. And some of the beggars really were hungry, they were thin and ate immediately what we gave them.
There are synagogues. The oldest was razed in 1960, the guidebook says. The biggest one, a dome for over 1100 people, was converted into the Philharmonic. They have an Opera house too, on main street. The only one that was always used as a temple, the guidebook says, was closed, but only on Saturday. Nicely renovated, it seems. And then there is the big one on Pushkina ulitsa. Not renovated. Huge cracks in the stairs and trash at the entrance. Like the houses in some parts of town.
Nice cafe across from the active Synagogue. The Smelly Cat. Live jazz music in the evening and good drinks.
More info (in Chinese):斯洛伐克-Kosice and 東斯洛伐克:Kosice科西策
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)Kosice Opera. Slavic composers and more. A French play in Slovac on our night. So we went to concerts at the Hungarian Protestant Church and later at the Smelly Cat Cafe.
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)Just another downtrodden Vulcan?
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)Aida coffee-shop on main street. Good cakes, croissants etc., local prices. Main street was renovated in 1996. Nice streetcar tracks, tiny canal in between. Streetcars run elsewhere. On main street they come on special occasions, maybe. We don't know what was under the blue wrap.
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)Jewish school next to the big concert hall, formerly a synagogue seating 1100. School is in use.
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)Mural in a side street, announcing a theatre. Very impressive puppet theatres.
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)Gargoyle in the underground archeology museum south of Elisabeth Cathedral.
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)Inside Elisabeth Cathedral. Big mass on Saturday, many weddings on Sunday. Nice weather, finally. "Blessed Sára Salkaházi, S.S.S., born as Sára Schalkház, was a Hungarian Roman Catholic religious sister who saved the lives of approximately one hundred Jews during World War II."(Wikipedia)
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)Entrance of the Jewish school pictured above.
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)12000 Jews deported in 1944
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)Walking in Kosice
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)On the express train Bratislava-Kosice (7 hrs)
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)Kosice railway station. No map available, except this one.
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)The Map
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)Saint with finger on his mouth
東斯洛伐克:Kosice(科西策)Resting at The Smelly Cat


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