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西藏的风采-2007-08-26/09-08在拉萨

(2007-09-27 06:34:53)
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西藏的风采-2007-08-26/09-08在拉萨

2007年9月6日    
(一)神奇天路 ---这是世界海拔最高铁路,最高点为海拔5072米;
    世界最高高原冻土隧道风火山隧道全部位于永久性高原冻土层内,海拔5010米;
    世界海拔最高的火车站唐古拉车站海拔5068米;
    世界最长的高原冻土铁路桥清水河特大桥飞架在平均海拔4600米以上的可可西里国家级自然保护区,也是青藏铁路线上最长的“以桥代路”工程……
    仅这些之最就足以让人“高山仰止,景行行止”了,而今能真正感受,的确让我小激动一番。
   T222次火车晚点10几分钟,原本傍晚22点15分的车等到近22点面30多才缓缓驶来。依然有很多人,上到82岁的耄耋老人,下至嗷嗷待哺的幼儿,男女老少各色人等把车厢塞得水泄不通。后来在攀谈中得知不少人是被在藏经商的父母从内地过去读书的,或者是投奔儿孙。列车跟我预想的不大一样,总体来说还很人性化,电子信息提示、自动放氧、开水充足,手机充电插座,水龙头、厕所等都用藏、汉、英三语对照翻译,而且车上乘务人员的素质和形象不错。
   从达州上了这趟进藏列车后,明显感觉景致跟南国大不一样,高大挺直的白杨林真的就像教科书中写的那样如同一排排守卫的士兵,护风林、护河林等到西北才可以欣赏到的景致我也是第一次领略。还有以险峻著称的华山,黄河流沙的水带……
   车出西宁,一路沿湟水河谷前进。这一段青藏公路与铁路并肩而行,西行经日月山进入牧区,在广阔的草原上渐行渐远。突然,眼前出现一条狭长的水带,继续前行,水面慢慢开阔,充盈视野,这就是圣洁美丽的青海湖,被誉为高原的璀璨明珠。
    由于列车在这一段是夜间行驶,所以无法欣赏到“鸟岛”清晰的美景。而位于柴达木盆地东部的茶卡盐湖在蒙胧的月光映衬下却散发别样的光彩。这个富饶的天然盐湖时而碧波荡漾,时而茫茫苍苍,一片洁白,容秀丽、壮美于一体,气象万千,独具特色。
    当夜色褪去晨光初现时,列车到达格尔木,海拔上升到3000多米,气温骤降。车厢自动供氧,不会有什么反应,电子显示屏也在提醒乘客注意安全,少活动,保证充足睡眠,但事实上怎么能睡得着。为了适应真实的高原环境,我特地下车感受了一下,空气清新纯净,不少人在此拍照留念。这个高原客栈应该算是一个里程碑,对我们的旅程是这样,对祖国的铁路建设亦如此。
格尔木,我来了。
  自此以后的旅程基本上都是在同一个色调里进行的。
静寂、荒凉、悲壮,绵延不绝的昆仑山脉一望无际,远处的白云缭绕在山顶,分不清是云在山中还是山在云上。
   成群的牦牛、零星的藏羚羊还有藏族特色的帐篷点缀在这辽阔土地上,生命的灵动提醒我们这里并不是死寂的。不少乘客纷纷拿出小DC或手机抓拍绝美风景。
青藏铁路与青藏公路交错穿行在崇山峻岭之中,星星点点的军车行使在路面上,可能是给守卫在边疆哨所的士兵们运送军粮或者是鸿雁传书吧。营房分布在高原上,过不多远都可以看到飘扬的五星红旗,以及“做党和人民的忠诚卫士”一类的标语。路过一处时远远看到很多身穿绿色军大衣的战士们向列车招手,我也向他们致敬。虽然很远并不一定能够看到,但心底的敬意绝对是真诚的。他们在荒无人烟的土地上,甘心默默地守护着。而我们平日穿梭于高楼大厦、车水马龙间,可曾想到这浩瀚苍茫的祖国边疆还有这样一群人,还有这片奇异的土地。
我的心静得出奇,就只傻傻地望着窗外,火车行驶地很慢,容我慢慢把这些景物纳于眼里、于胸中、于笔端。什么是水天一线、云里雾里,什么是辽阔苍茫、绵延不绝,什么是静寂悲凉、荒无人烟,我正在一一感受并陶醉其中。
  “荡胸生层云,一览众山小”,说得不只是泰山;“问苍茫大地,谁主沉浮”不只是主席发出的天问;“是谁带来远古的呼唤”,终于明白为何一曲青藏高原音调要如此高昂雄浑才足以表达即时即刻的心情。那些儿女情长、勾心斗角、尔虞我诈在苍茫大地上显得多么荒谬可笑。当芸芸众生还在纸醉金迷中迷失自我,在职场仕途中不能自拔时,这些矗立千年万年的高山流水已在嘲笑着我们。人生一世,到底在求什么?内心的丰富与平衡,我以为。
   曾经试问过自己,高山、大海、草原,最向往哪一个。我第一个排除的是大海,虽然她的宽容博大能包揽所有的忧伤哀愁,但它让我觉得有点轻浮,太过玄虚与浪漫;而高山则不同,深刻沉稳,能携手一同走进高山群峰的一定不只是小鸟依人、亲亲我我能做得到的,而或是一生的至友,或是终身的伴侣。
  “风吹草低见牛羊”的大草原我还没到过,所有的想像都只是憧憬。是不是因为没见过的都是最美的缘故我还不确定,不过在我的生命计划中早已预留了这一页。
在来旅行之前,很多关心我的人都提醒我那个地方多可怕多恐怖,而内心的叛逆却让我愈加想去挑战,也算是一次磨练自己的人生阅历了。
   我在想,等我旅行回来之后,一定是一个更加刚强而有韧性的我。
新修建的青藏铁路格尔木至拉萨段,经纳赤台、五道梁、沱沱河、雁石坪,翻越唐古拉山,再经西藏自治区安多、那曲、当雄、羊八井,直达拉萨。一路上旅客的行头在悄然变化,夏装卸去穿上了毛衣外套。虽然嘴巴、皮肤明显干裂开了,但我还在尽情饱览着大自然的饕餮盛宴。
    中午时分,车厢里不少人睡着了,我却不愿错过这个绝佳的时间,边看边想边记,人生也就应该这样。只是高高低低的打牌和吆喝声会打断我的思绪,只有无奈,社会的大熔炉,要能够接受一切。
列车继续缓慢行驶……
   无嗔
   鲜活的社会这本“无字之书”真正遇到会读它的人才愈加凸显出它的价值,而后转化为文字,教育更多的像我这样的人。
   好美的旅程,让人都禁不住想起很多:所谓繁华,不过是人喜欢把自己弄得太累了 !                                               笔者发表于2007-09-26
September 6, 2007 (a) the magic Skyway---this is the world's highest railway, the highest point is at an elevation of 5072 m;
    The world's tallest permafrost tunnel fenghuoshan tunnel in permanent permafrost layer, at an elevation of 5010 m;
    The world, the highest railway station tanggula station elevation 5068 m;
    The world's longest railway bridge in permafrost Qingshui bridge fly at an average altitude of 4600 meters in Kekexili national nature reserve, is also on the Qinghai-Tibet Railway is the longest "to bridge instead of road" project ...
    Most of them only makes people "Alpine Yangchih, keikō Sham", but can really feel that I'm a little excited.
   T222 time train was delayed 10 minutes, the original evening 22: 15 car until nearly 22 points 30 only slowly. Still there are a lot of people, 82-year-old on to the new cohort elderly, down to the feeding of children, women, young and old consisted the carriages were bursting at the seams. Later, in talking to that many people are in the Scriptures ' parents reading from the Mainland in the past, or who chose his children and grandchildren. Train as I had expected, in General, also very humane, electronic message, automatically put sufficient oxygen, water, phone charging outlet, taps, toilet, etc, with Tibetan, Chinese and comparative trilingual translation, but the car attendants of good quality and image.
   From dazhou it carried on the train, the obvious attractions like Southland big, tall straight baiyanglin really like textbooks written so as rows of Guard soldiers, nursing Fenglin, River forest until the Northwest can enjoy the scenery, I was the first time. There is a steep mountain, famous for its sandy yellow belt of water ...
   Car Xining, all the way along the Valley Huang. This section of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway and railway travelling westbound entry by Sun, pastoral in vast grasslands. Suddenly, into a narrow zone, walk on the water slowly open, the filling of vision, this is the Holy, the beautiful Lake, known as plateau of agriculture.
    As the train in this segment is the night, unable to appreciate the beauty of the island "is clear. While Qaidam Basin in the East of the Salt Lake and KEKE in hazy moon relieved but very sporadic. The rich natural Salt Lake and popple, sometimes vast green, blues, let the beautiful, magnificent, spectacular singular atmosphere.
    When the night and early morning light shades, train reached the Golmud now, at an elevation of up to 3000 meters, cold. Automatic oxygen supply, there won't be any reaction, electronic display also reminders security, less active, adequate sleep, but in fact can't. In order to adapt to real plateau environment, I've come off feeling a bit, pure and fresh air, many people in this photo. This plateau Inn a milestone should be considered, on our journey, on railway construction.
Golmud, I came.
  Since then journey are basically in the same tone.
Silence, bleak, tragic, ceaseless of the Kunlun mountains, and the vast expanse of white clouds in the distance, the likes of at the top of the Hill, was a cloud in the mountains or hills in the clouds.
   Crowds of yak, ad-hoc Tibetan antelope still dot the Tibetan characteristics of tents in the vast expanse of land, life on-the-fly reminded us here is not dead. Many passengers have produced small DC or mobile phones to capture beautiful scenery.
The Qinghai-Tibet Railway and highway crossing frontiers in Tibet grew up surrounded by mountains, the crest of a military exercise in pavement, might be to guard the frontier outpost of the soldiers transported military provisions or wild pass book. Barracks located in the Highlands, too far can see fluttering flag with five stars, and "do the party and the people of loyal bodyguard" a class of slogans. Passing through a time saw many wearing green jundayi soldiers waved to the train, I also pay tribute to them. Although very much and may not be able to see, but I respect the absolute sincerity. They are uninhabited land, watching in silence. And our daily shuttle to high-rise buildings, sidewalks, can this vast expanse of the country border there is a group of people, and this piece of land.
My mind is the best, just stupid looking out the window, the train travelled very slowly, I slowly put these things were eyes, to the chest, to both. What is the boughs, into the cloud and fog, what are the vast expanse, ceaseless, what is the silence and desolation, uninhabited, I'm a a feel and intoxicated.
  "Swinging on breast health clouds, at a glance mountains", is not only Tarzan; "ask boundless, who will" not just the President issued a ask for days; "who brings the ancient calls for", and finally understand why a Qu tone to the Tibetan plateau so high, powerful and sufficiently expression at heart. Those immersed in love and intrigue, commanders in the boundless looked on the ridiculous. When mankind still glamorous self, in the workplace career mindwhen, these towering over the Millennium has been inhabited for thousands of years of making fun of us. Life, what exactly is the heart of the rich and? balance, I think.
   How can I have, in the mountains, sea, grassland, which most desire. I first excluded is the sea, though her tolerance Boda can take all the sadness, but it makes me feel a bit frivolous, too talk too wise and romantic; and the mountains are different, a profound steady, jointly visit the Alpine peaks must not just bird Heli, Kiss me I can do it, or to friends for life, or life partner.
  The emerge of cattle and sheep "Prairie I haven't visited, all imaginable are longing for. Is it because I haven't seen is the best reason I'm not sure, but in my life have been set aside in this page.
Prior to travel, and many of my people reminded me that place more terrible than terrorism, and the heart of treason but let me want to go to the challenge, it can be considered a temper their experience.
   I think that when I travel, must be a stronger and toughness of me.
The new building of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway Golmud-Lhasa section, nachitai, wudaoliang, tuotuo River, yanshiping, crossed the tanggula mountains, then by the Tibet Autonomous Region in Amdo, nagchu, tries, the yangbajing, through to Lhasa. On the way visitors dress in trends, summer working to put on a sweater coat. Although mouth, skin obviously getting cracked open, but I'm still enjoying spectacular panoramic views of nature: catching the feast.
    At noon, in quite a few people to sleep, I do not want to miss this great time reading side to side, life should be. Only jagged cards and sound interrupting my mind, only the helpless, the sociocultural society, to be able to accept everything.
Trains continue to slow traffic ...
   No complaint
   Vivid social this "no phrase book" really read it talent increasingly that of value, and then converted to text, the more people like me.
   Beautiful journey, let people could think of many: the so-called downtown, but it is people like so too tired! I was published on 2007-09-26

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