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MG车主万里长征环球行-土耳其在眼前!

(2010-06-21 11:50:55)
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MG车主万里长征环球行-土耳其在眼前!

Ken and urbanites

MG车主万里长征环球行-土耳其在眼前!

Smiling faces: girls who helped their father at the bakery

  MG车主万里长征环球行-土耳其在眼前!

Just camp in the car park

MG车主万里长征环球行-土耳其在眼前! 

More smiling faces

 

June 13, 2010
2:00 pm

#66 Another four hour crossing

Author: Ken Slater

We moved out of customs and vehicle clearance on the Iran side of the border  very quickly. The rapidity of the process may have been helped by our guide as he knew the ropes as previously worked in the unit.

Once through to the Turkey side things were going smoothly until two cars were chosen for thorough inspection and X-rays. Our car and Ian B’s car were randomly selected for intensive scrutiny. The reason for this is that this border is the major access point for drugs from Afghanistan to be smuggled into Europe.

我们离开伊朗,在海关和边界伊朗一侧车辆通关速度非常快。该进程的速度可能已被我们的导游帮助,因为他知道以前工作的关键所在。

一旦通过向土耳其一边事情进行顺利,直到两车进行彻底检查和X -射线选择。我们的汽车和伊恩B的车,随机选择了认真的审查。原因是,这一边界是来自阿富汗的毒品主要的接入点可向欧洲走私的原因。

At the first inspection point the two cases and the back pack were removed from our car and  X-rayed. Ian B followed the same process with his cases.

We then  drove our cars to the second  inspection point where everything had to be removed from the cars and placed on the ground. This included two cases, back packs and two big plastic storage tubs, all spare parts, electrics including all the items placed under the back boot cover.

Next we drove the cars into an X-ray tunnel for x-ray.  Once this was completed the car was given a thorough internal inspection which included examining the seats and roof and touching all surfaces in the interior and generally looking for concealed areas.  This was done twice to our car but not to   Ian’s car. Then the luggage and contents of the car were repacked.

在第一个检查点的两起案件和背包被从我们的车和X光检查。伊恩乙随后与他的案件相同的过程。

然后,我们驱车向我们的汽车在第二个检查点都已经被遣送的小汽车和放在地上。这包括两种情况下,背包和两个大塑料桶储存,所有的零部件,电器,包括所有引导下背部盖放置物品。

接下来,我们开车到一个X射线为X的车隧道线。一旦这个完成的赛车获得彻底的内部检查,包括检查座椅和车顶内饰和感人的所有表面和一般地区寻找隐伏。这样做两次,我们的赛车而不是伊恩的汽车。然后,行李和汽车的内容重新包装。

The whole exercise took over an hour. The three officers were in T shirts and jeans but carried guns in their belts. They were very serious but good natured. Interestingly they didn’t x-ray the contents of the two big, black tubs which store most of our not so frequently used possessions like books and souvenirs.

 Prior to the x-ray process Denise and  Sue had walked down to see what was happening and I handed Sue the metal safe. She walked away with  it and sat with Denise back the main immigration area waiting for the cars to be cleared.

整个演习一个多小时。这三名人员在T恤衫和牛仔裤,但在他们的皮带进行枪。他们非常严重,但好脾气。有趣的是他们没有X射线的两个大,这不是我们的存储经常使用的物品如书籍,纪念品,最黑桶的内容。

 在此之前的X -射线的过程丹尼斯和苏走了下来,看看发生了什么事,我交给苏金属安全。她走开了,并坐在丹尼斯回主要移民领域的汽车等待清理。

With the process complete the customs officers took photos of each other posing with the car. Once cleared  we drove back to the others at the immigration point and when our carnets and passports were returned we headed into Turkey. We drove out through high wire  fences and a couple of watch towers.  The drive from the border post to the hotel was flanked by snow capped, Mt Ararat at 5000 metres above sea level  with the sun setting on it.

随着这一进程完成了每一个海关官员对赛车造成的其他照片。一旦清除我们开车回别人在移民点,当我们的通行证和护照还给我们进入土耳其的领导。我们驱车透过高的铁丝网和瞭望塔夫妇。从边境哨所开车到酒店于两侧的积雪,海拔在5000与上夕阳米亚拉腊山。

 


7:13 am

#65 Iran and we didn’t see a western traveller in seven days

Author: Sue Slater

All though the trip, I have been exhilarated about   what we have seen from the little red vehicle. The magnificence of the “off the normal tourist route” in China; the pristine scenery of the glacial Lake Samilu, the pass from Horgas, China into Kazakhstan with rugged and rough unmade roads but the most utterly amazing bridge constructions and soon to be completed roads I have ever seen; the alpine magic of Kyrgyzstan; the blue mosques with domes and minarets on the Silk Road in the towns in Uzbekistan and the madness of the gold god in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan.  And everywhere the friendliness of the people.  

虽然这次旅行的全部,我一直在兴奋什么我们从没有看到红色的车辆。而“脱离正常的旅游路线在中国”的冰川湖Samilu,从Horgas通过原始的自然风光,成为中国与哈萨克斯坦的取消道路崎岖不平,但最根本惊人的桥梁建设和即将建成的道路的辉煌我所见过的;吉尔吉斯斯坦高山魔术;与圆顶和尖塔上的丝绸之路在乌兹别克斯坦的城镇和在阿什哈巴德,土库曼斯坦神金疯狂的蓝色清真寺。和世界各地人民的友好。

But in Iran there have been some real contrasts. Iran, a country of 75 million people is endowed with enormous natural reserves and natural beauty but presents some  challenges  for the traveller.  It is a country of contradictions in terms of ideas and history. It is difficult to get a full picture  in a short stay of seven days, but  you really get some strong and lasting impressions.

Would you believe that we didn’t see any other Western tourists in the time we were in Iran.

The people are delightful and yet the system is sometimes  confronting. We are told that generally the system,  does not want tourists in this country. They do not need the revenue  yet the poeple are so open and generous to visitors. The traffic police  were efficient , the roads were good  and we felt safe.

但在伊朗有一些真正的对比。伊朗,一个75万人口的国家拥有巨大的自然资源和自然风光的旅客,但提出了一些挑战。这是一个矛盾的国家观念和历史条件。这是一个很难得到一个短暂逗留7天的全貌,但你真的得到一些强烈和持久的印象。

请问您认为我们没有看到任何时候,我们在伊朗的其他西方游客。

人民是愉快的,但有时面对的制度。我们被告知,一般的制度,不希望在这个国家的游客。他们并不需要增加收入,但poeple是如此开放和慷慨游客。交通警察是有效率的,道路是好的,我们感到安全。

We have only travelled through the Northern Iranian coast, hugging the Caspian Sea. We are informed this is the most prosperous part of Iran and the most liberal. We did not go to Tehran but visited Tabriz, a city of two million people and Iran’s fourth largest city. The discrepancy between urban and country people seems poles apart.

我们只是穿过伊朗北部海岸,拥抱里海。我们被告知这是伊朗最繁荣的地区和最自由。我们没有去参观了德黑兰,但大不里士,1 200万人民和伊朗的第四大城市的城市。城市与全国人民似乎南辕北辙的差距。

One challenge for the traveller is whether to comply or defy the dress code. The only people we talked with were libel and their view was that we should dress as we would in our country and carry or wear a scarf when outside in a public place.



该旅客的一个挑战是,是否遵守或违抗着装规范。我们交谈,只有人诽谤和他们的看法是,我们应该打扮成我们会在我们的国家和携带或佩戴围巾时,在公共场所之外。

 When we parked at Namak Abrood Tourist village (a bit like Arthur’s Seat to be exact) Ken and Reg, both wearing shorts were told by the parking attendants with our guide interpreting, that their dress was inappropriate. They had to change into three quarter or long pants. Later at the same location, while having a morning tea break, Mary wearing a massive sun visor was told her head covering was inappropriate. She had to wear a scarf under the sun visor because some of her hair was visible.  For the sake of our guide and the group, people have always complied when asked.

当我们停在南岳Abrood旅游村(像亚瑟的座椅是精确位)肯和注册,都穿着是由我们的引导泊车服务员解释说短裤,他们的衣服是不恰当的。他们不得不改变为三个季度或长裤。后来在同一地点,而有一上午茶歇,玛丽身穿大遮阳板覆盖被告知她的头是不恰当的。她穿在阳光下遮阳围巾,因为她的头发有些可见。为了我们的指南和组起见,人们总是问时遵守。

Interesting that although we have complied with the dress code  a number of us question this and  the liberal Iranians  we talked with said they  want Westerners  to present as they would in their  own country.



有趣的是,虽然我们与着装遵守了我们一些问题,这和我们交谈,自由的伊朗人说,他们希望目前的西方人,他们将在自己的国家。

Many Iranians speak of the  infringements of human rights in this country and they believe   the  West has failed to support people here probably for economic reasons. The demonstrations planned for this weekend will be interesting to say the least.

许多伊朗人谈论人权的侵权行为,他们相信这个国家和西方支持的人并没有在这里可能出于经济原因。示威计划在本周末会很有趣,至少可以说。

Some of the young women look fabulous in their non black version of hejab. Smart head scarves frame their round beautiful, olive skinned faces with their big, brown eyes and broad smiles. They wear jeans, high heels and firm fitting, knee length coats which are nipped in at the waist, a large shoulder bag and over sized sunglasses   which gives a casual, urban chic look. In the Champs Elysees area of Tabriz many women were quite heavily made up and wore bright scarves showing lots of dyed hair with scarves casually looped around the lower head, just in case.  Even meeting the demands of hejab you can look very glamorous they seem to be saying.



青年妇女在一些看起来美妙的非中hejab黑色版本。智能头巾框架的一轮美丽,他们的大,棕色的眼睛和开朗的笑容橄榄皮肤的面孔。他们穿着牛仔裤,高跟鞋和坚定的拟合,膝盖的长度是在扼杀在腰部,大肩袋及以上的给出了一个休闲,别致的外观尺寸的太阳镜城市大衣。在香榭丽舍大不里士地区的许多妇女都相当沉重了起来,穿着显示染发一堆用明亮的围巾丝巾随便下封头环周围,以防万一。即使会议中hejab的要求,您可以看起来非常迷人,他们似乎在说。

At Babol, Ken sat and watched groups hiring large boats for an hour on the Caspian Sea. He was shocked when he saw the boat proprietor purposefully hand out three life jackets to three men in a group while the women, in black hejab, drew the short straw. No life jackets for them.

At the time of the last election one million women signed a petition to register their dissatisfaction with the current system and  today Iran  has more women than men in higher education.

在巴波尔,肯坐下,看着团体租用一小时就里海大型船只。他感到很震惊,他看见船老板故意伸手在一组3救生衣至三名男子,而妇女,黑人hejab的,提请苦差。他们没有救生衣。

在上次选举时有100万妇女签署一份请愿书登记其与现行制度相比,今天伊朗已经在高等教育女性比男性多的不满。

In the hotels and eating venues portraits of the religious leaders   look down at you. They are everywhere. As you drive through the towns they stare at you from large billboards. And there are billboards of military personnel, the fallen heroes now martyrs reminding all and sundry of their ultimate sacrifice for their country in the eight year Iran/Iraq war with two million casualities. Maybe this is the same as our country towns with their memorials and memorial avenues for the fallen in world war one and two and in the days of my childhood, the portrait of the Queen prominently located in all public buildings and schools. We understand that the young, militia volunteers who make up the million strong Baseej are rewarded for their efforts in ensuring adherence to the strict moral and social codes in all aspects of daily life.

在酒店及饮食场所的宗教领袖画像瞧不起你。他们无处不在。正如你开车经过的城镇,他们在盯着你从大型广告牌。并有军事人员的广告牌,倒下的英雄烈士提醒现在为他们的国家在8年伊朗/伊拉克战争的所有两百万的伤亡和最终的牺牲杂。也许这是因为他们的奏折,为世界的战争之一,两个在我的童年时代下降,英女皇肖像突出地摆在所有公共建筑和纪念学校位于我国城镇途径相同。据我们所知,年轻,民兵志愿者谁弥补万强Baseej是在确保遵守严格的道德和社会日常生活的各个方面规范自己的努力得到回报。

Most of the smaller towns we have driven through like Bojnurd were flying black flags to commemorate the death of the Grand Ayatollah Khomeini. Only in one town did we see green flags flying near a mosque I might add, representing the Reform Movement. The visual images are really powerful and in the hotels and restaurants the televisions blare, often with some religious person motivating a large audience.

较小的,我们已经推动喜欢Bojnurd通过城镇飘扬着黑色的旗帜,大部分为纪念霍梅尼逝世大。只有在一个城市,我们看到绿旗附近的清真寺,代表我可以补充的改革运动,飞行。视觉图像的真正强大的力量,在酒店和餐馆的电视机光泽,经常与一些宗教激励了大批观众的人。

But the people are welcoming. The people are so proud of their Perisan past and place in history but concerned about where things are heading.  Everywhere you go most people want to make eye contact and smile. The young folk want to talk and practice their very good English. “Welcome to Iran” is common refrain. They tell us of the hardship in Iran which is partly, an outcome of the sanctions against their country; high levels of unemployment, boredom, drug abuse, personal restrictions, inflation and shortages.  One guy said “my country is tired”. The ban on alcohol consumption is interesting and we noted one guy with his concealed  hip flask of vodka at the dinner table. Funny we could all see what he was doing.


但是,人们的欢迎。人民是如此的佩里尚过去和历史上的地位,但有关骄傲的东西在哪里的标题。你到处去大多数人想使眼神接触和微笑。这位年轻的民间想说话,练习英语非常好。 “欢迎来到伊朗”是不常见的。他们告诉伊朗的困难是原因之一,是对他们国家的制裁,结果我们,失业,无聊,药物滥用,限制个人高的水平,通货膨胀和短缺。一个家伙说:“我的国家是累了。”关于饮酒的禁令,我们注意到一个有趣的与他的髋部隐伏伏特加瓶在餐桌上的家伙。滑稽的,我们都可以看到他在做什么。

The fact that we drive along with the iPod playing  is also a possible  infringement here. No expression of affection in public is acceptable and when our convoy stopped out in the country, we all hopped out of the cars and  Ken gave me and extended hug as you do when you have been married forever. The driver came up to me and said you know that is this something that has not been permitted  in Iran for thirty years and it is so nice to see but so sad for our country that we are so restricted.

事实上,我们开车沿与iPod播放也是一个可能的侵权这里。在没有公开表达的感情是可以接受的,当我们的车队停在国内,我们都跳上了的汽车和肯给我和扩展拥抱你时,你已经做结婚永远。该司机走了过来,说你知道是这样,没有得到允许在伊朗的30年,它是如此高兴看到,但对我们的国家是如此悲惨,我们限制的东西。

Our  impression when we crossed the border on the first day, was the number of people enjoying the holiday weekend, out and about camping on the side of the rivers and in the countryside. It seems OK to pitch a tent and camp anywhere. We have seen small tents pitched on pavements in car parks and on the median strips in Tabriz. A walk into Babol at night we saw lots of groups sitting on carpets, Persian of course, on the pavement with tea and nibbles just socialising.


我们的印象,当我们在第一天越过边界,是享受周末假期的人,外出走动露营对河流边,在农村的数量。看来确定以沥青和一顶帐篷营地任何地方。我们看到小帐篷,在停车场和人行道投在大不里士的中位数条。一到晚上走巴波尔我们看到了坐在地毯上许多团体,波斯的时候就用茶路面,半字节和公正的社会化。

We have witnessed the custom of ta’arof in practice where people demonstrate their generosity and sensitivity. Basically it seems when you ask a price the answer is” it is nothing”. The interaction may go through three stages before an agreed amount is settled on. Mary was purchasing material and when Reg came to pay for it the shop keeper said take it. Reg worked through the system and for the princely sum of $2.50 Mary has a metre of material. I went to buy a bottle of water at the hotel and handed  the receptionist one dollar US and  when she didn’t have the change I indicated she should not worry but  she remonstrated and  insisted  I keep the dollar and the water. Unheard of!



我们目睹了在实践中,人们表现出慷慨和敏感性的ta'arof习俗。基本上它似乎当你问一个价格,答案是“这是什么”。这种相互作用可能会经历三个阶段之前商定的金额结算。玛丽是采购材料时注册来支付它的店老板说,是否可以。注册工作,并通过该系统为每加仑2.50美元的王侯之玛丽米的材料。我去酒店买了一瓶水,递给了接待员1美元的美国,当她没有改变我表示她不应该担心,但她提出抗议,并坚持我把美元和水。闻所未闻!

Half the country of Iran is mountainous and again we saw snow capped peaks. Once across the border from Turkmenistan the terrain was rugged and the style of mud brick housing changed and the urban landscape looked like something from biblical times. Square or rectangular mud brick buildings with flat roofs and high walls was the norm.

伊朗全国的一半,又是山区,我们看到积雪的山峰。一旦越过边界从土库曼斯坦的地形崎岖的泥砖屋的改变,城市景观就像从圣经时代的东西看。正方形或长方形的泥平屋顶和墙面砖的建筑是高的标准。

 When we hit what would be considered the tourist area along the Caspian Sea with the Alborz Mountains running parallel with the inland sea, towards Rasht, we saw three and five storey concrete buildings everywhere. They were drab, unpainted and uninspiring, such a contrast to the colour and movement of the architecture of some  parts of  the Stans. In Tabriz there were a lot of buildings which were still under construction and it looked as though this was an extended process which was taking years to complete. Maybe the sanctions mean some of the construction materials are not available.



 当我们到了怎样才算与厄尔布尔士运行的内陆海平行山脉走向拉什特,沿里海旅游区,我们看到3-5层混凝土建筑随处可见。他们是单调,没有油漆的和温和的,这种反差的颜色和对一些地区的施坦斯建筑运动。在大不里士有一建筑物的建造工程仍在进行,而且看起来好像这是一个正在扩展的过程,很多年才能完成。也许制裁意味着建造一些材料无法使用。

 The surprise in Iran is the diversity of  the land, from desert to the cotton fields and rice paddies running parallel with the Caspian Sea. Lush, tropical terrain in some parts and wind swept, barren ranges in other areas.


 伊朗的惊喜是多样性的土地从沙漠到棉田和稻田运行里海平行。在其他领域郁郁葱葱,在一些热带地区的地形及风席卷,贫瘠的范围。

Petrol in Iran is 40 centres a litre and gas next to nothing we are told.  Many cars run on gas and the queues at gas stations sometimes stretch for a 100 metres.  Forty percent of cars are Hillman Hunters (called Paykans) in various stages of decay.  Petrol stations are hard to find as the profit margin in selling petrol is low.  It seems an irony that you have to drive around one of the oil rich countries of the world trying to find petrol.  Still $15 to fill your car softens the blow.


在伊朗的汽油每公升40和天然气中心旁边有人告诉我们什么。许多汽车运行于天然气和加油站排队的时候,我和100米延伸。 40车占百分之希尔曼猎人(称为Paykans)在腐烂的不同阶段。油站很难找到作为汽油销售利润率低。这似乎是讽刺,你要驾驶围绕石油之一试图寻找汽油世界富国。不过15美元,以填补你的车柔软的打击。



A final contradiction was noted when our last tourist stop   just near the Turkish border, was a visit  to a church. I couldn’t fathom how it was that a  Christian church had continuously    functioned.  The church was the Qara Church, black church because it was constructed from black granite. History apparently records that this was the place where Tateous, a minor disciple established a church which  has  operated for thousands of years. Our guide told us it was primarily the Armenians who worshipped here. When we entered this simple cathedral, the priest was singing a mass and preparing a communion for about eight middle age men. The acoustics in this church were wonderful and the simplicity of the place very moving.

最后一个矛盾是我们最后的旅游时的注意停止在靠近土耳其边境,是一个教堂访问。我无法理解它是怎么一个基督教教堂,并不断发挥作用。这座教堂是卡拉教会,黑人教堂,因为它是由黑色花岗岩建造。历史的记录,这是明显的地方Tateous,建立了一个小弟子已经经营了几千年的教堂。我们的导游告诉我们,这主要是亚美尼亚人崇拜谁在这里。当我们进入这个简单的教堂,牧师唱的群众和准备约8中年男性的共融。在这个教堂的音响效果是美好的和简单的地方很感人。

I am pleased to be free of the head scarf and to have briefly visited this country where the people make you so welcome and appear so passionate about their country.  One can feel nothing but admiration for the Iranians who continue to question   the system and  with the support of the five million Iranians who live abroad  work towards  creating  a more open country. 

我很高兴的头巾自由,并有短暂访问了这个国家的人民让你如此的欢迎和他们的国家出现如此热情。人们可以感受到,伊朗人谁继续质疑制度,并在5万伊朗人居住在国外谁努力创造一个更加开放的国家支持,只是表示钦佩。

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