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前往洛阳  On the Road to Luoyang

(2007-08-07 21:03:51)
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其乃基于 Peter[2007-08-07]博客的翻译本

距离北京:17,793 公里
距离长江吴淞口:16,606 公里
夜间海拔:204 米
 
今天中原地区温度很高,天气预报说在 35 摄氏度以上。清晨六点,我就起床上路了,希望在上午十点赶到洛阳,躲过一天中最热的时候。
上午七点半,西安到洛阳的高速公路上,车流动弹不得。几百米前的一辆卡车起火,堵塞了道路。一个小时就这么过去了,我只能待在车上眼睁睁地看着太阳升得越来越高。因为担心银川过后她可能再也发动不了,我将小黄的发送机持续运转了一会儿。最后,我还是决定关掉发动机。这真是个馊主意!

 

当我们可以继续前行时,小黄发动不起来了。还是传感器的老问题。我取下传感器,用喷剂把它清洗干净。但她还是发动不起来。我开始冒汗,不仅是因为气温急速上升。怎么办呢?唉,只能试试最后一招了:把星期天寄到的那个坏传感器装上。

 

前往洛阳 <wbr> <wbr>On <wbr>the <wbr>Road <wbr>to <wbr>Luoyang

 

对此我并未报以太大的希望,但万万没有想到,小黄居然又发动起来了。天哪,我真得回到北京把这个传感器彻底修好。这么小、这么便宜的一个东西,却能带来这么多麻烦!


***

 

开了一个小时,车流又停住不动了,这次是因为前方在修路。大约又等了一个小时……同时惴惴不安地倾听小黄发动机的声音……新装的坏传感器能撑得住吗?

坐在车里,烈日当空暴晒,发动机散发热量,排气管就在身旁,而且还没有空调……我要告诉你,热得要命!

 

十一点我终于从走走停停的车流中挣脱出来,下午一点总算抵达了洛阳出口处。通过收费关口后,我将小黄开到了一棵树下,总算有了一丝荫凉。我下了车,给我的洛阳朋友打电话告诉他我已经到了,然后坐在路边的一块石头上等他过来。“我很快就到,”他说,“二十分钟左右。”

 

一个出租车司机在我身边坐下来,开始向我打听小黄的情况。我简要回答了他的问题。过了一会儿,一位身着制服的高个子管理人员走了过来,也坐在我旁边开始问同样的问题,打听小黄的情况。我一般都会热心回答,但是坐在路边汗流夹背,我真的无法回答他的问题,所以就没说话。

 

“他不懂汉语,是吗?”出租车司机旁边身着制服的家伙问。

 

“不,不,他汉语说得很好……我想他只是太热了,”出租车司机回答说。

 

“热死了!”我证实了他的想法。

 

“哦,为什么不跟我走,就到马路对面,我们管理办公室里有空调,”身着制服的家伙建议说。

 

我向他笑了笑,但还是说不出话来。但他明白了我的意思,朝马路对面走去。我拖着疲惫的身躯向马路对面走去,走进了这间凉爽的小办公室。在我的一生中,我第一次觉得冷气是如此的美好。


***

 

我的洛阳朋友到了,他把我带到了东山宾馆,在这里他可以拿到特价。多么迷人的酒店啊……在整个旅程中下榻过的酒店中,东山酒店毫无疑问是最漂亮的……

 

东山酒店位于龙门石窟上面的一座小山丘上,四周都是枝繁叶茂的绿树。太棒了!

 

待我洗过手脸后,我的朋友把我带到了就在酒店下面的一间小茶室,喝了几杯清心怡神的茶水,吃午餐。

 

 

前往洛阳 <wbr> <wbr>On <wbr>the <wbr>Road <wbr>to <wbr>Luoyang

 

前往洛阳 <wbr> <wbr>On <wbr>the <wbr>Road <wbr>to <wbr>Luoyang

 

吃过午餐后,我走马观花地参观了龙门石窟。这个列入世界遗产名录的地方果然不同凡响,十万多座佛像的雕刻工程跨越了数个世纪:从公元五世纪晚期一直持续到九世纪。

 

尽管庞大的佛像理所当然地是这里的主要景观…

 

前往洛阳 <wbr> <wbr>On <wbr>the <wbr>Road <wbr>to <wbr>Luoyang

 

…但给我留下了特别深刻印象的却是这些小佛像……

 

前往洛阳 <wbr> <wbr>On <wbr>the <wbr>Road <wbr>to <wbr>Luoyang

 

这些小佛像不计其数,每一个都精雕细琢。(给你一个大小的概念:这个佛像最多 15 厘米高。)是什么促使人们来开展这项工程的?


***

 

如果幸运的话,我明天将抵达曲阜,然后前往黄河口,最后返回北京。今天我忽然意识到,这趟旅程所剩时日已经不多了。在某种意义上,我不敢去想结果,因为我很担心小黄……三天后我真的能如期抵达北京吗?
 
***
感谢诺基亚和我的 N73,使我能与大家一起分享我的经历。

 

Distance from Beijing: 17,793km

Distance from Changjiang Wusongkou:16,606km

Overnight altitude:  204m

 

The day’s highs in the central plains was forecast to be 35 degrees plus.  I got up early in the morning for a 6am departure such that I could arrive in Luoyang by 10am before the greatest heat of the day.

By 7:30pm traffic on the highway from Xi’an to Luoyang ground to a halt – a few hundred meters ahead a truck had caught fire and the road was blocked.   I spent over an hour watching the sun rise higher.   

For a while I kept Miss Daisy’s engine running, being worried ever since Yinchuan that she might not start up again.   Eventually, I decided to turn her off.  Bad idea!

 

When we were allowed to get going again, Miss Daisy wouldn’t start up again.  The old sensor problem.  I took the senor out and cleaned it with a spray.  But she still wouldn’t start up.  I started to sweat, and not only because the air temperature was rising rapidly.  What to do?  Well, really only one other thing to try, that is, fit the broken sensor that had arrived on Sunday.

 

前往洛阳 <wbr> <wbr>On <wbr>the <wbr>Road <wbr>to <wbr>Luoyang

 

I didn’t put much hope into it, but surprise of surprise, Miss Daisy started up again.    Heavens, I really need to get back to Beijing to get this fixed once and for all.  Such a small thing; such a cheap thing, and yet so much trouble!

***

 

After an hour’s drive, traffic ground to a halt again – road construction this time.   Another hour spent more or less waiting…meanwhile listening to Miss Daisy’s engine nervously…will the “new broken” sensor hold up?  

 

Sitting in Miss Daisy with the sun shining from above, the engine giving off heat, the exhaust pipe right beside me, and no air conditioning….I tell you, it is HOT!

 

By 11:00 I finally emerged from the stop-and-go traffic and arrived at the Luoyang exit by 13:00.  After passing the toll gate, I pulled Miss Daisy to the side of a tree which provided a bit of shade.   I got out, called my Luoyang friend to tell him that I’d arrived, and sat on the curb stone to wait for him.   “I’ll be quick,” he said, “about twenty minutes.”

 

A taxi driver sat down next to me and started asking about Miss Daisy.  I gave him a few, brief responses.  A while later a high management person in uniform arrived, sat down next to me as well and started asking me the same questions about Miss Daisy.    It’s not like me, but sitting there soaked in sweat, I just couldn’t get myself to answer him.

 

“He doesn’t understand Chinese, does he?” asked the uniformed fellow of the taxi driver.

 

“No, no, he speaks just fine…I think he’s just hot,” replied the taxi driver.

 

“Dead hot [热死了]!” I confirmed.

 

“Well, why don’t you come with me, right across the street, our management office has air conditioning,” suggested the uniformed fellow.  

 

I smiled at him, but still couldn’t say anymore.  But he understood and started walking.  I dragged myself across the street and entered the refrigerated small office building.   I don’t think cool air felt so well ever in my life.

***

 

When my Luo Yang friend arrived, he guided me to the Dongshan hotel  (东山宾馆) which he was able to arrange at a special rate.  What a lovely hotel…without a doubt, the nicest hotel I’ve stayed at during the entire journey…

 

The Dongshan hotel is located on a small hill above the Longmen Grottoes (龙门石窟) in beautiful leafy surroundings.    What a treat!

 

After washing my face and hands, my friend took me to a little tea house right below the hotel for a few refreshing cups of tea and lunch.  

 

前往洛阳 <wbr> <wbr>On <wbr>the <wbr>Road <wbr>to <wbr>Luoyang

 

前往洛阳 <wbr> <wbr>On <wbr>the <wbr>Road <wbr>to <wbr>Luoyang

 

After lunch, I managed a brief visit to the Longmen Grottoes.     This UNESCO World Heritage site is remarkable – over hundred thousand Buddhist images carved over several centuries, starting in the late 5th century AD and continuing all the way to the 9th .

 

While the large figures are, of course, the main attraction…

 

前往洛阳 <wbr> <wbr>On <wbr>the <wbr>Road <wbr>to <wbr>Luoyang

 

…I was particularly impressed by the tiny ones…

 

前往洛阳 <wbr> <wbr>On <wbr>the <wbr>Road <wbr>to <wbr>Luoyang

 

There are countless ones of these, each rendered with remarkable detail.   (To give a sense of scale, this figure is at most 15cm tall.)    What possesses people to go to such effort?  

***

 

Tomorrow, luck willing, I will manage to get to Qufu (曲阜), then to the mouth of the Yellow River and finally home to Beijing.   It suddenly hit me today that this journey won’t last forever.     In a way, I dare not think about the end because I’m nervous about Miss Daisy…will I really be in Beijing in three days?

 

***

Sharing this experience is made possible by Nokia and my N73

 

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