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重庆第一印象…… First Chongqing Impressions...

(2007-06-09 17:11:38)
其乃基于 Peter[2007-06-09]博客的翻译本
 

受到了重庆好奇的当地人热烈欢迎……

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...


我已经觉得遗憾了……那就是我在重庆只准备待两晚。我极少有这样强烈地感到因为时间太少而错过了很多东西的时候……尤其是天下着雨,很多值得一看的景观都看不到。
***


当我驶入重庆时,我突然看到前面出现了雄伟的长江大桥。这有力地提醒了我此行的目的和挑战,即一路开着小黄直到长江的源头。我已经快两个星期没看到长江了,再次看到,心头暖暖的。


抵达的当天晚些时候,我的朋友孟伟和李翠带我去朝天门广场,在那里可以看到重庆的嘉陵江与长江交汇的情景。他们说这是个特别的地方,可以看到两条不同颜色的大江交汇:嘉陵江是绿色的,而长江是黄色的。但长江说不上黄色,更像是棕色,水位很低,看起来像很悲伤很忧心忡忡的样子。

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...


冰啤
因为我大多数时候是在小饭馆吃的饭,因此很长一段时间喝的都是没有怎么冰过的啤酒。能再次喝到真正冰过的啤酒,感觉爽极了。


亮丽的与阴暗的,新的与旧的

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...


在重庆最摩登最时尚的购物区——解放碑附近溜达,我被那里的钟楼深深吸引了。很难相信 1949 年钟楼兴建时,是当时重庆最高的建筑。现在它即使不是最矮的,也是在最矮的之列了;周围的建筑都高过了它。虽然如今这钟楼已显得如此微不足道,重庆人看来也很看重这个钟楼,因为他们告诉我很喜欢在农历新年时来这里听它敲响新年的钟声。

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...


钟楼是一个已远去的时代仅存的几样遗存物之一,维护得很好。而另外一些遗存下来的旧建筑物就不是这样了,它们看起来是在干等着被拆掉建更亮丽的摩天大楼。


站在光鲜的新店面和诱人的品牌店前,你可能怎么也不会想象地到重庆还有阴暗的一面。就在离这光怪陆离的市中心不远处,我看到了两条污染程度之重是我见所未见的河流。河堤是青黑色的,发着一股恶臭,无论我怎么努力捏紧鼻子,都还是钻到了我的鼻孔中来。当我两位重庆的朋友发现我注意到这个时,我们垂头丧气地面露羞愧之色。“我们知道,我们知道……”

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...


当然,持批判态度是很容易的,不过也值得提醒大家,德国、英国、日本和美国在飞速发展期,其主要工业区的河流污染情况和这个非常相似。而现在这些国家已采取了联合行动,往日的可悲历史已一去不复返,如今到处都干干净净。


中国什么时候也能这样?能吗?中国地域广阔人口众多,让人希望她很快就能治理好污染,但也不禁要想,如何才能实现?

 

棒棒
棒棒军是重庆的城市象征物,我没有看到很多,只看到了一个,挑着很重的货物,但光这一个,就让我留下了深刻的印象。我记得看到的场景是这样的:一条弯曲的竹棒上通过两条紧绷的绳索挂着两个巨大的篮子;挑的人步履蹒跚,但很有节奏:微微右倾一下,再微微左倾一下;最后,那个弓着背 (弯曲程度不亚于竹棒本身) 挑货物的人大汗淋漓,青筋暴露,几乎要涨破一般。如此谋生,看着真是令人震撼。

 
A warm welcome to Chongqing...by some eager locals...

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...

 

I already have one regret ... and that is that I’m staying in Chongqing only two nights.   Rarely have I felt so strongly that I’m missing out a lot by having too little time ... especially since it is raining and there is much that I can’t see the way it is meant to be seen.

***

 

When I drove into Chongqing, I suddenly saw before me the giant Yangtze Bridge (长江大桥).  What a powerful reminder this was of the purpose and challenge of my journey ... to make it all the way to source of the Yangtze with Miss Daisy.      Having left the Yangtze behind for almost two weeks, it warmed my heart to see it again.   

 

Later on in the day my friends Meng Wei and Li Cui (李翠) took me to the Chaotianmen Square (朝天门广场) from where I could see Chongqing’s Jialingjiang river (嘉陵江) converge with the Yangtze.  It is a special place, they said, because the two rivers have different colours – the Jialingjiang river being green, the Yangtze yellow.    But yellow the Yangtze wasn't ... more like brown, and its water level very low ... it looked sad and pensive.

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...

 

Cold Beer

Since I eat mostly in small restaurants, I’ve been drinking room temperature beer for quite some time.    How nice it was to have really cold beer again.  

 

Glitter & Dirt, New and Old

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...

 

Strolling around Chongqing’s most modern and fashionable district, Jiefangbei (解放碑), I was very much drawn to the clock tower.   It is difficult to believe that in 1949, when it was built, it was the tallest structure in Chongqing.  Now it is among the lowest, if not the lowest; the surrounding buildings all overshadow it.    Even though it is such a minnow these days, the Chongqing people seem drawn to it, too, because they tell me that at Chinese New Year to love to come to listen to its chimes (听钟声).

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...

 

The clock tower, one of the very few remnants of a by-gone era, is very well maintained.  That can’t be said for some of last remaining old buildings that seem to be whiling away their time before being torn down to make room for yet more glittery skyscrapers.   

 

Standing there among all the shiny new stores and sexy brands, you’d never every imagine the darker side of Chongqing.    Not too far from Chongqing’s splendid city centre, I saw two of the most polluted rivers that I have ever seen.   The stain their banks greenish-black and exude a stench that penetrated my nostrils no matter how hard I clamped them.  When my Chongqing friends saw me take notice, they let their heads hang low in shame.   “We know, we know...”  

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...

 

重庆第一印象…… <wbr>First <wbr>Chongqing <wbr>Impressions...

 

How easy it is to be critical, of course, but then it is good to remember that the rivers of Germany's, Britain's, Japan's and the U.S.'s main industrial areas looked pretty much like this as well during their development spurts.  But by now these countries have gotten their act together and are clean by comparison to their woeful past.  

 

When will China get there?  And will it be able to?  China’s sheer size makes one wish that it will soon, but also wonder how. 

 

Bang Bang 棒棒

I didn't seen many of these symbols of Chongqing, but seeing one, only one, with a heavy load was enough to leave a deep impression on me.    Here is what sticks in my mind: two bulging baskets suspended by taught strings from a bent bamboo stick; a rhythmically swaying step – tilting a bit to the right, then a bit too the left; at last, a man with a strongly bent back (no less than the bamboo stick), sweat oozing from all his pores, and his veins pumped up to the level of bursting.     What a sight it is to see this man earn their living.

 

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