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这里你是绝对过不去的…… You're never going to get through this...

(2007-06-06 15:42:06)
其乃基于 Peter[2007-06-06]博客的翻译本
 
今天早上我离开贵阳前往重庆。人们告诉我从贵阳到遵义的高速公路正在维修中,小黄无法通行。所以我必须走一条到开阳的省级公路然后转由一条乡村公路去遵义。所有的人都跟我说这条乡村公路虽然是小路,但保养得不错,不会有问题的。
那条从贵阳到开阳的省级公路的确是棒极了。在开阳我上了乡村公路。这条狭窄而崎岖的小路穿过贵州的乡村蜿蜒而行。尽管天下着雨 (已经下了一夜的大雨),罩着软顶篷,但我还是感到十分愉快。也许,偶尔看到路上零零星星的石块和倒下的树木挡道时我本该担心的。

但我永远都是个乐观主义者,没有多想。

大约在去遵义的半道上我碰上了一串车排起了长龙。我在最后一辆的后面停下,这个位置正好是一个从左往右的大拐弯当中。我下车查看情况。道路再往右转时似乎出了什么事情。我等了一会,然后跟围上来看小黄的人们打听。是塌方了么?或者在修路?或者出了车祸?为什么会堵车?似乎没有人知道。

前面有些车重新开始移动的时候,我决定跟上去,尽管其他的车辆仍在等待,它们大都是大巴和卡车。很快我靠近出事的那个右转弯处了。显然是出了车祸。我再次下车查看情况。还没等我从小黄上抽身下来,一个小伙子就冲我喊道:“你的车过不去的!”周围的人也点头称是。显然他们已经看到了小黄的裙板,认为它离地面太近了。

“哦,我看看吧”我说。

“爱看多久看多久,但你过不去的!”他们异口同声地说。

我担心起来了,不过看一看总没有关系。

我走了大约百米的距离到了拐弯处。现在事情就一目了然了:一辆白色的小轿车撞上了一辆蓝色的大巴,路被堵上了。最后人们找到了一个中国式的解决办法:他们没有清理事故现场疏导交通,而是把木头搭在路旁的沟渠上做成了一条旁道。其中一组木头搭成驶入坡道,另外一组搭成驶出坡道。中国人是如此有商业头脑,要通过长约百米临时搭建的旁道得付人民币四元。

五十到百来位村民在一旁拥挤喧闹。他们一边赚钱 (每辆车四元),一边享受着不同寻常的娱乐:争论事故的原因,和警察聊天,看着开上旁道陷入淤泥的轿车。哇,多美妙的一天啊!

我看看那条旁路,从上面走了过去。木板看上去不太稳当。夹杂着草的泥泞部分看上去软得让人担心。但当时我认为值得一试,因为那么多的村民就是一辆坦克也能推过去,何况我的小黄才 550 公斤。

我回到车上。我上车的时候,大家又警告道:“不可能!”

“让我试试!”我回答道,一边上了车。

我认为最好的办法就是飞快地驶过。不能犹豫。如果轮子陷入淤泥,我就完全卡住了。唯一的机会就是给小黄一些动力让它压着那些比较硬实的地方过去。在村民们好奇而兴奋的注视下,我将小黄的车头笔直指向驶入坡道和向上的草坡。我听到小黄的底部擦过淤泥的声音,但是嘿,如果底盘不是一个大“冲锋”板,又叫什么小黄呢!
 
这里你是绝对过不去的…… <wbr>You're <wbr>never <wbr>going <wbr>to <wbr>get <wbr>through <wbr>this...

速度发挥了作用。我还没反应过来,又要把小黄的车头转向驶出车道了。砰砰砰的几声我就开过木板回到平路上了。我停住然后下了车。

“怎么样?”我问旁观的人群。
 
这里你是绝对过不去的…… <wbr>You're <wbr>never <wbr>going <wbr>to <wbr>get <wbr>through <wbr>this...

一不留神我就被村民们团团围住,大家都笑着竖起了大拇指。事实上我的感觉就象被人群围住的电影明星,只是他们都想在小黄身上签名而不是想要我的签名。我想让他们签五个名就打住,但是至少签了十个以后我才拿回了我的笔。
 
这里你是绝对过不去的…… <wbr>You're <wbr>never <wbr>going <wbr>to <wbr>get <wbr>through <wbr>this...

有一点也许你想知道,那就是我的四元过路费被免掉了。
 
 
I left Guiyang this morning in the direction of Chongqing.  I was told that the highway from Guiyang to Zunyi was under repair and not passable by Miss Daisy.  Instead, I should take a provincial road to Kaiyang (开阳) and then a county road from there to Zunyi.    This road, albeit small, is in good repair, everyone told me.  It would not be a problem. 

The provincial road from Guiyang to Kaiyang was, indeed, marvellous.  In Kaiyang, I entered the county road.   It was a narrow, bumpy and winding road leading through Guizhou country-side.  I thoroughly enjoyed myself even though I had the soft-top up since it was raining (and had rained hard overnight).  Perhaps I should have been worried when I saw occasional rocks littering the road and two fallen trees blocking part of it.

 

But being an eternal optimist, I didn’t think much. 

At about half the distance to Zunyi, I came across a long line of cars.   I stopped behind the last one,  in the middle of a wide left-hand turn right.   I got out to assess the situation.   Where the road turned right again, something seemed to be happening.   I waited, then asked those who began to surround Miss Daisy.    Is it a landslide?  Or road construction?  Or an accident?  What’s causing the blockage?   No one seemed to know. 

 

When some cars ahead of me began to move again, I decided to follow them, even though others – mostly buses and trucks – were still waiting.   Before long, I had come quite close to the right-hand-turn with all the commotion.    It became clear that an accident had occurred.  I got out once again to have a look.   Before I had entirely extracted myself from Miss Daisy, one young fellow shouted over to me: “Your car is never gonna get through here.”  And there was nodding all around.   Obviously they had already looked under Miss Daisy’s skirt and decided that she was just too close to the ground.

“Well, let me have a look,” I replied.

“Look as much as you want, but you’re not going to make it,” they all said in a chorus. 

That worried me, but looking won’t hurt.

 

I walked about hundred meters to the bend.  Now it was all clear: a small, white car had run into a big blue bus.  The road was blocked.   A Chinese solution was found.  Instead of clearing up the scene of the accident in order to let traffic pass, several logs of wood were piled into the ditch beside the road to make a small by-pass: one set of logs to create an off-ramp, another one to create an on-ramp.   And, entrepreneurs that the Chinese are, a RMB4 toll was imposed to use this makeshift by-pass which measured maybe hundred meters in length, if that.

 

Fifty to a hundred villagers were milling about.   Earning money (RMB4 per car) while enjoying exceptional entertainment –haggling over the cause of the accident, chatting up the police, watching cars getting stuck in the mud of the by-pass and more – well, what a great day!

I looked at the by-pass and walked across it.  The wood logs looked precarious.  The grassy-muddy section looked worryingly soft.   But then I decided that it was worth a try, not least because there were enough villagers to push a tank through, not to mention my 550kg Miss Daisy.

I went back to my car.  As I got in, the folks repeated their refrain “No way!” 

“Let me try,” I replied, and got in.

 

I decided the best strategy was to do this quickly.  No hesitation here.  If the wheels sank into the mud, I’d  definitely be stuck.  The only chance was to get Miss Daisy over the rough spots by giving her some momentum.    Under the watchful, curious and excited eyes of the villagers, I pointed Miss Daisy’s nose straight across the off-ramp and up the grassy hill.  I heard Miss Daisy’s bottom slide along the mud, but hey, what is Miss Daisy, if not a big surf board?

 

这里你是绝对过不去的…… <wbr>You're <wbr>never <wbr>going <wbr>to <wbr>get <wbr>through <wbr>this...

 

 

The speed did the trick.   Before I knew it, Miss Daisy’s nose needed to be pointed down the on-ramp again.   Bump-bump-bump across the logs and I was on tarmac again. There I stopped and got out.  

 

“Was that ok?” I asked the assembled crowd.  

 

这里你是绝对过不去的…… <wbr>You're <wbr>never <wbr>going <wbr>to <wbr>get <wbr>through <wbr>this...

 

Before I knew it, I was completely encircled by the villagers, all with big smiles and “thumbs-up”.   In fact, I almost felt like a movie star who’s being mobbed by the crowd, except that they all wanted to sign on Miss Daisy instead of receiving my autograph.   I wanted to cut them off after five signatures, but didn’t manage to recover my pen until at least ten signed.

 

这里你是绝对过不去的…… <wbr>You're <wbr>never <wbr>going <wbr>to <wbr>get <wbr>through <wbr>this...

 

In case you’re wondering, my RMB4 toll fee was waived. 

 

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