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Marker training - (5)

(2009-07-19 16:24:29)


分类: 训犬资料

How Long Should You Train?


Most training is best kept to very short sessions. I used to say that training sessions should be 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Now with marker training if a dog is motivated this can be expanded. When training is fun, the reward is high enough in value and the dog is not tired the time can be extended. Once of our young males could go 10 to 12 minutes. We have had others that needed very short sessions because his concentration did not allow for more.


Different dogs have different levels of concentration. As dogs gain drive their concentration will increase. To learn what is best for your dog start out by only putting 20 treats in your treat bag. When they are gone the session is over. When in doubt it is always better to leave a session with your dog wanting more.


Many times new trainers need get so into the work they need the signal of an empty bait bag to remind them that they need to stop. As they gain experience in the work this won't need to be an issue. They will learn to end a session on a positive high note.

Placement of the Reward


To become an effective marker trainer you must not only master the art of timing but also the art of where and how to deliver the rewards. New trainers often underestimate how important delivery and placement of the reward is to the learning process. Correct placement of a reward can result in new behaviors being learned very quickly.


The importance of reward placement in the learning phase of marker training may be best explained with an example.


In the first steps of the "hand touch" exercise we will often mark the dog when he looks at the hand we want him to touch. The correct place to reward the dog is "at that hand the dog looked at."


In other words you don't just hand the dog a food reward. You place the reward on THE HAND that the dog just looked. If the dog actually puts his nose on the hand you mark the nose touch and place the food treat on the hand that the nose just touched.


By placing the reward in the palm of marked hand and letting the dog take the reward off the palm of that out stretched hand the dog quickly figures out that there is a relationship between the behavior and the reward.


That's called proper placement of the reward. When you reward at the correct "place" the learning process will accelerate.


Another example of proper reward placement is seen when training the place command. If you want to teach your dog to go lie on his rug - or go touch his touch pad. In the first steps of the learning phase for these exercises is when the dog looks at the rug or his touch pad you mark the look and place the reward on the rug or the touch pad.


In formal heeling, if you want the dog to focus on the side of your face while in the heel position - you mark the moment he looks up at you face. A split second after the mark you bring the reward up buy your face and the reward comes from that point.

How to Hand the Dog Food - Without Getting Fingers Pinched
怎样递给狗食物 - 不要把手缩成一团拿着食物


Just as proper placement of the reward is important so too is how the reward is offered to the dog. It is often a mistake to hand a high food drive dog a piece of food with the tips of our fingers. At least if we don't want blood blisters and blackened fingernails.


Some dogs naturally take food gently. Some dogs can be trained to take food gently. Then there are those dogs that are so driven for food that a finger getting in the way is not much of a concern for them


The correct way to offer food to a dog is on the open flat palm of the hand.


We hold a food treat in an open hand by pinching the treat between our thumb and the base of our index finger. By holding the treat in this manner its a simple process to release the treat with our thumb so it roles into the palm of our hand. The dog can then take the food off the palm. When give a dog a piece of food in this manner your not going to get bit.

Marker <wbr>training <wbr>- <wbr>(5)

The correct way to hold a food reward - pinched between thumb and side of finger


Marker <wbr>training <wbr>- <wbr>(5)

Use Small SOFT TREATS in most marker training - they go down quickly and are easy to eat.

Too often dogs HACK UP hard crunchy treats

Marker <wbr>training <wbr>- <wbr>(5)

The incorrect way to give your dog food.


This is how food hound dogs bite finger tips.


 Food can be stores in a bait pouch which we keep on our belt in the middle of our back or it can be kept in a pocket of a training vest or jacket. Or we can pre-load our hand or hands with a food reward. This means we will have food in the hand before the exercise begins.


Dogs quickly figure this out when we have food preloaded in our hands. Some dogs will try to MUG your food hand.


When that happens simply close your hand into a fist and hold it flat against the front of your leg. When the dog continues to mug the hand we say nothing and do nothing but stand there. The dog will eventually give up and look up at you. When that happens - Mark the look and reward the dog with a food treat.


This goes a long, long way to teaching the dog that he holds the key to the food reward. They learn that they can get the food if they do something that you want.

Marker <wbr>training <wbr>- <wbr>(5)

If your dog mugs your hand with food, hold both hands against your legs like this until the dog stops and looks in your eyes - then mark the look and reward.

Marker <wbr>training <wbr>- <wbr>(5)

This photo demonstrated placement of the reward on the target after the mark.


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