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“THE GROUND WORK”--基础训练--(3)

(2009-07-07 09:49:17)
分类: 训犬资料


I have written very detailed articles on HOW TO PREVENT DOG BITES IN CHILDREN. This section is a very short over-view.

我写过一篇非常详细的文章:HOW TO PREVENT DOG BITES IN CHILDREN。这篇文章只是简单的概述。


My position on dogs and children is that kids as young as 9 can learn to handle (not train) a dog that is already trained but it should only be in the presence and under the supervision of the primary trainer (husband or wife).

Children younger than 7 are not mature enough to assume the responsibility for handling any dog. They can play around a dog but only in the presence of an adult pack leader.



Dogs must learn that babies and very young children are ALWAYS off limits. Dogs are not allowed near them and are certainly never allowed to play with them. It’s too easy for accidents to happen and when accidents happen with adult dogs and small children they are usually traumatic.

So my words of advice are to err on the side of safety and follow these guidelines.



Children as young as 11 can learn to train a dog but the training should be in the presence of an experienced trainer.



The question often comes up by new pet owners about how to teach the new dog that the small child is a higher rank in the family pack.



My answer is that you don’t try do that. As pack leader you simply establish a rule that the dog is not allowed near the young child, and if it breaks that rule it suffers serious consequences.



I know it’s hard to tell children that they cannot have contact with a new dog, but with this said, the dog has to make its bond with you before it makes its bond with the rest of the family.



In my Basic Dog Obedience DVD I explain the rules on how to introduce dogs to children.






I seldom allow people from outside my immediate family to touch or pet my dog.

These people are not pack members and as such my dog has no need to be petted by them. I wrote an article and did a podcast titled WHO PETS MY PUPPY, you may want to read or listen to it. The same applies to my adult dogs.
这些人不是群体成员,按照他们的身份,我的狗不需要被他们抚拍。我写过另外一篇文章:WHO PETS MY PUPPY,你可以参考一下。里面的方法对于我们的成年狗依然有效。

I get many emails from people who misunderstand this concept. They mistakenly think I am saying to keep the dog away from people. That’s not the case. Dogs need to be socialized around people. They just don’t need to be petted and fawned over by strangers.

I expect my dog to be aloof to strangers. I want to be the center of my dog's universe. If my dog tries to run up and get petted I correct it, if it is in any way aggressive to strangers it is immediately corrected. The level of correction is firm enough that the dog remembers the next time it thinks about acting stupid.

If people come up and pet my dog I politely always ask them to stop. If they ignore that request I get very firm. I am not trying to make friends when I walk my dog, I am trying to become a pack leader for my dog, so if someone's feelings are hurt, tough.

This also goes for dogs that are going to be trained for personal protection or police service work. The pack leader determines who and when to fight, not lower ranking pack members. It would do new trainers well to remember that very important concept.




A very important part of the solution to almost all behavior problems is an appropriate exercise program. So with this said exercise needs to be an important part of every ground work program.

An adult dog that is getting exercised is not a bored dog that has time to worry about getting into trouble or worry about being in his dog crate.

We do need to be a little careful with dogs younger that 12 months of age. Young adults should not go out jogging until they are 14 to 15 months old.

Over exercising a young adult is one of the leading causes (along with over feeding) of hip dysplasia and other skeletal failures.

Owners that have adult dogs with a ton of energy can often use a weighted dog vest when they walk their dogs. These vests give them more bang for their buck when they take a walk.


By far the best form of exercise is swimming with long walks coming in second.



When I walk a new dog it is usually wearing a dominant dog collar with or with out a prong collar. These collars will self correct a dog when it pulls into the leash.


A dog that always pulls on the leash does not respect his owner as a pack leader, so I put a stop to it with a prong collar.

I have written an article titled THE THEORY OF CORRECTIONS IN DOG TRAINING. If you want to learn about the kinds of corrections and levels of corrections to use with your dog, I recommend that you read this article.

Most dogs will wear a prong collar without problem. It is important that a prong be properly fit. I always recommend dogs wear a dominant dog collar along with a prong collar.


I have seen too many cases where prong comes apart when the handler gives a hard correction. If the dog has a second collar on at the time, the owner will not find himself trying to catch his dog at a time of high distraction (which is usually the case if you are correcting your dog).




When I walk my dogs I never allow them to socialize with other dogs that we meet along the way. Read the article I wrote on DOG PARKS and how stupid they are.

Dogs are pack animals and strange dogs are not part of our family pack. In addition the pack rules are clear. It is the pack leader's job is to drive non-pack members away. If he needs help from lower ranking pack members he asks for it.

If I am on a walk and a stray dog approaches I verbally drive the stray away. If the stray continues to approach I get physical with the offender.

Don’t for one minute think that your dog does not see what’s going on. Remember, our dogs are very intuitive and they miss nothing.

When you drive strays away, or put yourself between your dog and a second dog he instinctively recognizes this as the actions of a pack leader.

Once you have set your leadership position a strong dog will defer to your rank and allow you to deal with an intruder as a matter of respect. When people have dogs that go crazy at the sight of another dog, that owner's rank has not been properly established with their dog.

People who follow the policy will also have dogs that are less inclined to fight with another dog they accidentally meet when off leash.

I never allow my dogs to socialize with strange dogs. Those people who think they need to socialize their dogs with other dogs are drop dead wrong. These are truly people who don’t understand pack structure and rank drive.





If you do live in an area where there are stray dogs carry pepper spray(bear spray)and gas a dog if it comes close. You can buy it on the internet.


I would also carry a stout walking stick if I had problems with stray dogs.



If the owners of these stray dogs stand there like a deer in the headlights I tell them that I warned them to get their dog under control.



I warn them that they need to keep their dog on leash if they don’t want this to happen again. I also tell them that I would be happy to tell the police that their dog tried to attack me and my dog and that I was simply protecting myself because I feared for my personal safety. Trust me, police officers always relate to that language.



Going through doors or gates or coming down a set of stairs before your dog is an important part of demonstrating pack leadership. It may not seem like much to us humans but it is a big thing in terms of respect to a dog

This is why I NEVER allow a dog to go through a door or gate before I do. I also never allow them to charge down stairs ahead of me.

When I have a dog that charges through the doors, I set them up to fail. I open the door just wide enough for the dog's head to get through.

When he tries to force his body through the opening, I have a firm hold on the door and I don’t allow the door to swing open wide enough for him to pass. I close the door to the point of trapping the dog's head so he can’t pull it out and he can’t push his body through the opening. In effect I trap him.

I don’t slam his head in the door. In fact I don’t put one bit of pressure on the dog's head. All I have to do is hold him in place so he can't go through the door but he also cannot pull his head back out.

When you do this the dog will have a panic attack. You don’t have to say one word here. Just hold his head for a few seconds.

You only have to do this 2 or 3 times and they will respect the door as your space not their space.

I teach our dogs that they have to sit before they go through the door to go outside and then sit while I come out, turn and close the door.

This is a BLACK AND WHITE exercise for the dog. They clearly understand that they must go to the door and sit before they are allowed out of the house or sit before they are allowed back into the house (or car).

I even occasionally open the door before they sit and offer them the opportunity to stick their head in the door opening. They will always look at me and if dogs could talk they would say “OH NO, I KNOW THAT SILLY GAME.”

This work is demonstrated in my Basic Dog Obedience DVD.



It can take weeks or even months for a dog to accept “your home” as “his home.”

I have noticed it take a longer period of time to settle in for adult dogs that are being re-homed the first time. Dogs that have been in two or more homes adjust much faster.

We never allow a new dog to be unattended and loose in our home when we are gone until it has been with us for a long, long time--like months. In fact we own dogs that are never left unattended in our home.

This does not mean we lock them in a crate for 4 years. It just means that I control our dogs in the home 100% of the time. They start off in the crate and graduate to a dog leash in the home.

So the dog is either in his crate, on leash, or, after formal training, loose in the house. When that happens my eyes are on the dog 100% of the time.


This may fly in the face of other advice you get. But I will be the first person to say “I TOLD YOU SO” when your dog chews up your favorite couch or pees on your brand new carpet while you run down the the corner grocery for a gallon of milk.

I will always remember back to 1972. I had a 1 year old dog that dug her way through the sheet rock in my apartment while I was gone (for 30 minutes). She was well on her way to making an outside doggy door in the siding of the apartment building when I got home.


People who allow dogs out of their crates too soon, or people who bring their new dogs into their homes and don’t KEEP THEIR EYES on their new dogs are the people who send me emails with behavioral problems.

So our approach is to have our crate in the family area. This allows the dog to watch the family going about their daily lives. This seems to speed up the process of teaching the dog that it is now part of our family pack. It also gives the dog a chance to recognize WHO OUR FAMILY IS. That’s very important.

Through observation the dog learns about our style of living.

If your new dog is a little shy and over reacts to family members walking by the crate it’s a good idea to leave a bowl of all-natural dog treats sitting on top of the crate. When a family member goes by they can drop a dog a treat through the front grate in the door of the crate.


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