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To Dress Well, A Woman Should Shop Like A Man女士们,学学男士怎么买衣服

(2011-01-18 20:17:23)
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杂谈

When it comes to shopping for fashion, women usually dominate, buying clothing for their men as well as themselves. But ladies, I have a gauntlet to throw down: Women have a lot to learn from the way men shop.

到买衣服,通常都是女士占主导地位,她们给自己、也给自己的另一半买衣服。不过女士们,我这里有一句当头棒喝的忠告:买衣服时,应当好好学学男士的购物经。

 

I first sensed this when menswear designer Thom Browne told me that he couldn't use a fabric unless it felt good 'to the hand,' because men won't buy uncomfortable clothing.

我最初意识到这一点,还是因为男装设计师汤姆•布朗尼(Thom Browne)的一句话,他跟我说,他绝不会采用“手感”不好的面料,因为男士们是不会购买不舒适的衣服的。

 

Come again? If comfort were the top criterion for selling womenswear, Jimmy Choo would be out of business. Unlike men, women frequently settle for garments that don't fit well and don't feel good.

再说一遍?如果舒适是女装的最高标准,那么Jimmy Choo早就该关门大吉啦。女士跟男士不同,她们对那些不是那么合身、不是那么舒适的衣服安之若素。

 

Sometimes, women have little choice. It has long been an irritating truth is that men are offered better-quality clothes for lower prices. Many fashionable women's clothes -- including plenty sold at luxury prices -- are made relatively cheaply. 'Women do get shortchanged in the market,' says Patrick Gigliotti, a menswear salesman at the venerable Boyd's Philadelphia department store. Some women who value well-made clothing have even resorted to shopping in menswear departments.

有些时候,女士的选择余地确实是比较小。长期以来,女士们都面临着这样一个恼人的现状,那就是:男士服装比女士服装质量更好、价格更便宜。很多时尚女装品牌──包括很多价格非常昂贵的牌子──做工都比男装要差。久负盛名的费城博伊德百货公司(Boyd)的男装销售员帕特里克•吉廖蒂(Patrick Gigliotti)说,“女士们常常会成为冤大头。”有些注重服装品质的女士只好转战男装部购买衣服。

One reason for the quality difference is trendiness: Because womenswear is more faddish, there's a perception in the fashion industry that the clothes will be thrown away more quickly. Indeed, fast fashion has trained a generation to seek out throwaway styles.

男装女装品质之所以存在差异,时尚是其中的一个因素:女装更赶时髦,因此服装业有个约定俗成的观点,认为女装会更快地被束之高阁。事实上,快时尚已经培育出了一代即抛型服饰的拥趸。

 

Yet tailoring should matter. Women are always looking for clothes that will lift their bottoms and smooth their bulges. That's exactly the kind of magic that tailoring works. Luckily, with a little education about the way sophisticated men shop, it is possible to buy good-quality womenswear.
其实衣服的剪裁也是很重要的因素。女士们总是喜欢那些能够提臀收腹的衣装,这正是剪裁的神奇魔力。幸好,只要稍微学习一下有品位男士的购物经,我们还是有希望买到高品质的女装。

 

What does it mean to think like a man? Consider the way Jay Kos bought himself a pair of pants in New York last Sunday. Mr. Kos, himself a clothier and the owner of the Jay Kos store on Park Avenue, found a pair of olive wool pants at Soho's Blue in Green shop. But the pants had to pass a few tests before he took them to the dressing room. First, he felt the wool with his hand to ascertain its weight and softness. He checked the seams for clean stitching -- no loose threads. In the dressing room, he squatted to be sure they fit comfortably. Only then did he step out to take a careful look in the store's biggest mirror and ask the salesman if the pants fit well.
像男士一样思考意味着什么呢?来看看杰伊•科斯的购物之道吧,上周日他在纽约给自己买了一条长裤。科斯本人就是一位面料商,在派克大街(Park Avenue)有一家以自己名字命名的店铺。他在索霍区的Blue in Green商店里看上了一条橄榄色的毛料裤子,不过他在试穿之前就会给这条裤子把几道关:首先,他用手抚摸面料,以感知其份量和柔软度,然后检查接缝处──确认没有松懈的线。试穿的时候,他做了下蹲的动作,确保裤子舒服合体。然后他才走出试衣间,在店里最大的那面镜子前一边仔细端量,一边问售货员裤子是否合身。

 

This isn't the way most women shop. But it can be.

多数女士是不会这么买衣服的。但是这一点其实完全可以做到。

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

To <wbr>Dress <wbr>Well, <wbr>A <wbr>Woman <wbr>Should <wbr>Shop <wbr>Like <wbr>A <wbr>Man女士们,学学男士怎么买衣服

关注男士定制服装的一些特点,比如手感良好的面料,精心的裁缝做工,改制的余地以及结实耐用的纽扣。

To <wbr>Dress <wbr>Well, <wbr>A <wbr>Woman <wbr>Should <wbr>Shop <wbr>Like <wbr>A <wbr>Man女士们,学学男士怎么买衣服

因精心剪裁、做工精良而广为人知的设计师,高端品牌方面有Roland Mouret(图中是其作品)、低价位方面比如优衣库设计师Jil Sander 。

 

 

 

面料:fabric

外套:jacket

裤子:pants

接缝处:seams

衣服统称:garment

做工(精良):tailoring   well-tailored

剪裁和缝制:cut and sew

 



 

 


 

 

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