加载中…
个人资料
  • 博客等级:
  • 博客积分:
  • 博客访问:
  • 关注人气:
  • 获赠金笔:0支
  • 赠出金笔:0支
  • 荣誉徽章:
正文 字体大小:

袴的缝制

(2007-01-24 20:19:06)

[前言略]  
1. Size yourself:
a) back-to-floor measurement: measure from the small of your back (basically your waist area) to the floor
b) waist measurement
度量自身的尺寸:
a)下半身长度测量:测量自后背最窄处(基本就是你的腰部)至地面的长度
b)测量腰围

2. The width of your fabric needs to be equal to : your back-to-floor measurement minus about 2 inches (if you are conservative you can wait to trim the 2 inches after you've finished the hakama so you can determine exactly how close to the floor you want it to hang). If your fabric is short by just 1 or 2 inches, this is still Ok: your hakama will be a bit above ankle level.
你所需的布料宽度必须等于:你的下半身长度减去2英寸(如果你比较保守,可以在完成袴之后再剪去2英寸以精确决定你所希望的距地面高度)。如果布料短了一两英寸也不要紧:你的袴会少许高于脚踝高度。

3. Layout your fabric, doubling it and cut away any folds. Right sides should be together. Layout the pattern using pins and making the following adjustments:
http://www.shineblog.com/UploadFiles/2006-6/615551287.jpg

摊开布料,对折并(沿折线)剪开。必须以正面对合[注:从附图推测此处right指正面,因此此句意为必须将布料的正面面对面合拢对折]。摊开纸样以别针固定并按照以下所述进行调整:
AB and CD= your waist measurement * 2 腰围x2
AC and BD = your back-to-floor measurement - 2 inches 下半身长度-2英寸
AE = 4/9ths of the AB measurement 4/9的AB长度
EF = 2/9ths of the AB measurement 2/9的AB长度
FB = 3/9th s of the AB measurement 3/9的AB长度
I= 1/2 way between A and C and 1/2 way between E and F AC和EF垂直正中线的交点
AG= 2 " 2英寸
GH=2" 2英寸
BJ=2.5" 2.5英寸
JK=2.5" 2.5英寸
AL = 1/3rd of the way down 全长三分之一
BM= 1/3rd of the way down 全长三分之一
Section AE will be the front of the hakama, and FB the back.
AE段将是袴的前面,FB为后面。

4. Cut the section from E to I to F. Save the scraps.
裁去E至I至F区域[注:此区域为袴的档处,请按图示弧形裁剪或按照你所希望的形状来裁剪]。保留裁下的布片。

5. Now sew a 1/2 seam from E-I-F
[此句意义不明。推测为对合缝合两层布料的E-I-F边。]

6. With wrong side of the material facing you, fold in Points GL with a slight curve. Fold one more time along HL, again with a slight curve. Now sew about from point H to L about 1/4" from edge to keep the fold. Now flip the hakama over and perform this on the other side.
http://www.shineblog.com/UploadFiles/2006-6/615452493.jpg
在布料背面朝上的情况下,沿着GL略微卷的折叠起来。然后再沿着HL略微卷的折叠起来。现在大致沿HL在距离边缘大约1/4英寸的位置缝合以保持此折叠状态。现在翻过来在另一面完成同样操作。

7. With wrong side of the material facing you, fold in Points JM (no curve). Fold one more time along KM. Now sew about from point K to M about 1/4" from edge to keep the fold. Now flip the hakama over and perform this on the other side.
在布料背面朝上的情况下,沿着JM(不用卷)折叠起来。然后再沿着KM折叠起来。现在大致沿KM在距离边缘大约1/4英寸的位置缝合以保持此折叠状态。现在翻过来在另一面完成同样操作。

8. Create the back piece:
制作背片:
http://www.shineblog.com/UploadFiles/2006-6/615333401.jpg
Interfacing: you need the back piece to be stiff, so cut 4 pieces of iron on interfacing with the following measurements:
Divide your waist measurement by 10
NO= 2/10th your waist measurement
QP= 3/10ths
height should be 1/10ths
衬里:你需要保持背片一定的硬度,因此按照以下尺寸裁剪4片烫衬:
腰围除以10
NO=2/10腰围
QP=3/10
高度为1/10

Sew or iron the layers together. If you do not have iron-on-interfacing which is usually for light to medium weight fabrics you can substitute any of the following:
1) 2 layers of sew-on-interfacing for heavier fabrics (this is sold on bolts - you will need to have 1/4 of a yard cut for you)
2) 1 layer of buckram (material used for making hats)
3) 1 layer of canvas
4) 3 or 4 layers of your hakama fabric
将这几层缝合或烫合在一起。如果你没有烫衬(即常用于轻薄的或一般质料的布料的那种)可以用以下任何方式代替:
[略]

9. Cut the casing for the back piece:
Cut two pieces from your hakama fabric that are identical in shape the interfacing piece, but one inch longer on each side.
裁剪背片的套合外层:
用袴的布料裁剪下与衬里相同形状的两片布料,但是每一边要大出一英寸。

10. with right sides together, sew from point U to R to S to T, leaving UT open. Now turn inside out and press. Tuck the interfacing piece into the casing.
正面对合状态下,沿着U至R至S至T缝合,保留UT边不缝合。现在将里面翻出并理平整。将衬里塞入此套合外层内。

11. Cut two belts: You now need to cut 2 belts with the following measurements:
Width of both belts: 4/30th of your waist measurement
Back Belt: length is 2 times your waist measurement
Front Belt: length is 4 times your waist measurement
You can piece fabric together to create these lengths, rather then cutting it straight without seams - that's what I do.
裁剪两条腰带:你现在需要按照以下尺寸裁剪两条腰带:
两条腰带的宽度:4/30腰围
背后的腰带:长度为2倍腰围
前面的腰带:长度为4倍腰围
[笑话略]

12. 12a) Perform the following on both the back and front belt. Fold the belt in half the long way, with wrong sides folded inward. Press. This is to create the center fold.
http://www.shineblog.com/UploadFiles/2006-6/615681969.jpg
12b) Now unfold. Using the center fold you created in step 12a as a guide, fold each side in to meet at the center fold (the two sides should meet but not cross each other). Press.
12a)将背后的腰带和前面的腰带同时完成以下操作。将腰带沿长轴中线对折,背面朝里。理平整。这是为了制作中央折痕。[建议熨斗烫出此折痕]
12b)然后再展开。利用前一步骤制造出的折痕作为标志,将两边分别对齐中线再次对折(两边在中线处并拢但相互之间不重叠)。理平整。[建议熨斗烫出此折痕]

12b. Perform the following on both the back and front belt: Unfold the belt and now fold each lengthwise side in towards the center fold you had created.
[与前次操作重复,可能为作者笔误]

13. Take the back belt with the folded in sides facing you, and find the center in both width and length. Lay the back-piece against the center line, matching the center of the back piece (point V) with the center of the belt. Fold the belt up so it sandwiches the back-piece. From the center sew about 1/4" from the open edges of the folded belt in order to seal the belt together - sew to the end, and at the end of the belt tuck the ends inside so the raw edge is hidden. Go back to the center and sew down the other length of the belt.
http://www.shineblog.com/UploadFiles/2006-6/615657401.jpg
将背后的腰带折叠的内面朝上,并找到长宽正中点。将背片对齐中线放置,背片中悖ǖ鉜)对准腰带的正中点。将腰带往上折把背片夹在中间。从中间开始沿腰带的对折开口在距边缘1/4英寸处缝合以拼合腰带——缝到底,并在尽头处将腰带的顶端向内部翻折以隐藏毛边。回到中点并缝合另一边。[注:其实不用从中点分别开始缝合,可以直接由一端缝合至另一端。]

14. Pleating the front: Lay out the hakama with WRONG side down, right side up, and so that the pants seam from EIF is laid out straight. In front of you should be the center point E, with points A and A on either side. See picture. We are going to create the folds that will hang down in the front of the hakama. (Note, I'm pleating "under", so that folds pleat under the last pleat made when moving from the center outwards. But this might not be natural for some, so you can flip your hakama so the wrong side is facing you and pleat with each fold overlapping the last fold from the center out).
http://www.shineblog.com/UploadFiles/2006-6/615161341.jpg
正面打褶:将袴翻过来背面朝下,正面朝上,从而裤子的缝线EIF此时笔直展露。此时面向你的必定是点E在中心,点A分别在两边。如图所示。我们将开始制作袴垂在正面的褶。(注,我将褶打在“下面”,即由中央向外打褶时每一折痕都在前一折痕的下面。但这可能比较难操作,因此你可以将它翻过来背面朝上打褶)

First, figure out what 40% of your waist measurement is. Layout a ruler: when you are working the folds, you want the total width of the front piece of the hakama to fit within this measurement (40% of your waist measurement). Now, bring in the fabric on either side of point E to form 1 pleat in the center along E, and UNDER this pleat, two more pleats on either side of it. Each pleat goes under the next. Use your 40% of waist measurement to work the pleats out. Once you're done, press the pleats, and then sew across the top to hold the pleats.
http://www.shineblog.com/UploadFiles/2006-6/615663128.jpg
首先,计算出40%腰围的长度。放上一把尺子:当你制作褶皱时,袴的前片总宽预计在该长度之内(即腰围的40%)。[以下打褶步骤略,如图所示需完成3个褶]完成后,压平褶痕,并将顶端缝合以固定褶。

15. Now we're going to pleat the backside. Again, layout the hakama, WRONG side down, right side up, with the center point F in front of you, and points B on either side.
现在我们将要开始制作背后的褶。同样的,展开袴,背面朝下,正面朝上,中点F面向你,点B分别在两侧。

http://www.shineblog.com/UploadFiles/2006-6/615191471.jpg
Instead of using 40% of your waist measurement as the width, you are going to use the bottom of the back-piece (not counting the belt which extends on either side) to size it. Instead of 3 pleats you will have 2, and instead of tucking each pleat underneath, the pleats will go on top of the last pleat. Bring the 2nd and last pleat on each side over and on top of the first pleat, so that the pleats meet in the center (the first pleat will be hidden by the 2nd).
与使用40%腰围不同的是,这次你需要使用背片的底边长度(不要把两端延伸的腰带长度算入)来度量。不同于打3个褶这次你将要打2个褶,并且不是将褶打在下面,而是将褶重叠在前一褶之上。将第二个也是最后一个褶并拢并覆盖在第一个褶之上,这样所有的褶都在中点并拢(第一褶被第二褶完全遮盖)。

Again, sew across the top to hold the pleats.
同样,缝合上端以固定褶。

16. You will now sew the back-piece with belt (back in step 9 you sewed the back-belt to the back-piece) to the back side of the hakama. Lay the back side of your hakama down with the wrong side down so that the right side is facing up at you. Take the back-piece/back-belt and lay it upside on the hakama, with the right side facing the hakama, wrong side facing you. Align the bottom of the belt with the top of the hakama. Sew together. Now, when you flip the back-piece/back-belt up the seam will be on the inside of the hakama.
http://www.shineblog.com/UploadFiles/2006-6/615664323.jpg
现在可以将背片连腰带(即步骤9所完成的)缝到袴的背面上。将袴的背面反面朝下摊开正面朝着你。将背片连腰带倒过来且背面向上放在袴上,此时背片连腰带的正面贴着袴,背面朝着你。将腰带底边与袴得上端边缘对齐。缝合在一起。此时,当你将背片连腰带翻过来正面朝上是缝线将隐藏在袴的里面。

17. Sew the front belt to the front: In step 12a and 12b you created folds. Lay the front belt out, with the wrong side up and the two folds pressed in towards the center fold, exactly as seen in figure 12b. Identify the center of the belt (center of it's longest length) and then identify the center of the hakama front's top. Lay the front top of the hakama on the belt, aligning the front's top to the center fold, and ensuring that the belt is evenly placed so that equal amounts extend on either side of the hakama front. See figure
http://www.shineblog.com/UploadFiles/2006-6/615144450.jpg
将前面的腰带缝合到袴的前面上:在步骤12种已经制作了折痕。按照12b的步骤折叠腰带。确定腰带的正中点并接着确定袴前面的上端正中点。将袴的前面上端放在腰带上,对齐上段和正中折痕,并确认腰带被平均分配从而袴的正面两边腰带延伸长度相等。见示意图

17b. Now fold the belt down on that center line so that the belt is encasing the hakama. See figure 17b. Sew from one end of the belt bottom to the other end. This will close up the belt and sew it to the hakama at the same time. Make sure to tuck in the far ends of the belt so that fabric edges aren't exposed and sew up those ends as well.
现在将腰带沿正中线翻折下来从而腰带将袴[的上端]包在里面。见示意图17b。自腰带一端的底部缝合至另一端。这将闭合腰带并将其缝到袴上。将腰带两端翻进去并缝合以隐藏布料的边缘。

18.Sew the sides together matching point L to point M and point C to point D, then sewing down from point L/M to point C/D. This creates the seam along your outer thigh, creating the first leg of the Hakama. Repeat on the other side.
将点L与点M对合、点C与点D对合并缝合L/M至C/D之边。这样完成了沿着大腿外侧的缝线[?],制作出了第一个袴的裤腿。在另一边重复这一步骤。

19. Hem the bottom of the hakama. The edge of the hakama should be around or above your ankle. See instructions on the website on how to wear the hakama.
将袴的底边折边缝合。袴的边缘必须处于或高于脚踝水平。在网络上看一下如何穿着袴的指导吧。

注:该制作方法仅为简易做法(作者也在前言中亦如此说明),具体细节仍有待考证。

0

阅读 收藏 喜欢 打印举报/Report
  

新浪BLOG意见反馈留言板 欢迎批评指正

新浪简介 | About Sina | 广告服务 | 联系我们 | 招聘信息 | 网站律师 | SINA English | 产品答疑

新浪公司 版权所有